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Anyone solve THE clod problem?

jason

R.I.P. Chip
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Jan 21, 2004
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The Crawler State
Everyone know the problem with clods is when your front or rear tires have more traction, the dual motors act like an open diff and the axle with the least traction spins freely. Sometimes this is an advantage, to me most of the time it is a hinderance. I spent a whole day changing setups, and tried to fix the problem, but anything I did didn't make a differecne. Has anyone figured out how to solve this problem?

Here's what I've tried.

1. Motors wired in parallel. Problem still exists.
2. Run dual superroosters, with one battery. Problem still exists.
3. Run dual superroosters, with dual batteries. Problem still exists.

None of these options even made a noticable difference, they all had the same results. I'm guessing it's just something we have to live with.
 
I know how to solve the problem. DRIVESHAFTS :flipoff:

No seriously, this is the thing that keeps me from building a clod. It would drive me nuts. Someone figure this out and I might try one.
 
Unfortunately I dont think there is any way around it. THey are two isolated drive systems so even if there is equal power going to both systems whichever breaks traction first is going to spin. Obviously a shafty cannot do that. Traction is the name of the game.
I'm with 4XADICT, dont think I'll ever build a crawlin clod for that reason. I've had a couple clods in the past and that problem drove me nuts.
 
There is no way around it. Its stalling the motor. Both motors have the same power going to them, so of course if one has less load its going to spin faster. Thats the major downside to a clod.
 
my clod used to have that problem but know its alot better. I just run lathemotors and 9t pinions. Its all about power if the front end starts to slip the rear end has to do all the work. But if you have enough power for one side to do the whole thing then its good. im also running a EXV on one battery but i dont think that has anything to do with it. :D
 
I am a little new to crawling but I have a clod with two lathe motors and 9t pinions and a EXV on one battery. I had herd about the problem befor I ran it and was looking for it but it never came. I do not know it may be the fix.
 
I am running lathe motors, and 8 tooth pinions.

If you guys haven't seen the clod do this you are not running hard enough obsticals.

Pick up the car and hold the rear tires from spinning and hit the throttle a little bit, see how the fronts keep spinning? Thats the problem.
 
Now try and have someone hold the front (while you hold the back). Im sure it does the same thing regardless of which (one or both) axles are locked up. I would test this, but my clod is in peices right now. Im sure just about any truck/car would stall because of the drivetrain being locked up. But its better to lock up then blow up or break parts.
 
If you hold just the front, the rear will spin. If you hold both, it will stall both motors, until you get about full throttle, then you can't hold it.

Shaftys have a mechical link front to rear, so they always spin at the same speed, this is the problem I'd like to end with the clod. Overall torque until you stall the motors is what you are talking about by holding both axles.
 
In that case, the only thing I could think that would solve it would be, running 2 ESCs off of 2 batteries, but youve already done that. :?
What about JPSs dual motor axles running off of 2 super roosters. That might stop it. 2 55t motors w/ 8-10t pinions should have alot of torque or get crazy and run 2 EVXs on 14v each (4 battery packs).
Hopefully when (more like if) I get done with my madmaxx, Ill get motivation to work on my clod again.
 
Hi there
I am building a Gecko2 crawler and I want to run 2 esc’s and 2 batts, one set for each axel, so that I can control the throttles independently.
(Left stick for the rear motor + steering / right stick front motor and+ steering)

I might end up running only 1 but in guna try 2 first as I have downloaded quite a few vids of people crawling Clods and it often looks like they get half way up something, just on the balance point of tipping over backwards and the front wheels are spinning and bouncing about and doing nothing useful. To me this seems to be making it worse. The spinning affect of the front wheels is trying to wheelie the truck onto its roof. All you really want to do is drive with the back when this happens.
I also thought that it might turn tighter if you lock up the rear end with a bit of reverse and then drifted the front across on the power.
My controller can be set to run both esc’s together if I want as well when ever I want, just on a different mode.

I have never tried this so I don’t really know what I’m talking about but I thought I’d try it first.

would this solve the problem? :?: :idea: :?:

What do you think?


I think that some real truck can do this?


I was wondering if, (to save weight) I could run both esc’s of one battery pack?
 
I used to think the front clod slip would kill a clod. Going to a few comps convinced me it actually helps.
Picture climbing near verticle (about the only thing that stops our trucks now) The low cg and the front tires spinning allow the front end to "hunt" and slide back and forth until they fall in that slightest crack or find an area that is just a little less steep and up the obstacle the truck goes. Try that with a shafty. Your CG is higher so you don't even get to try as steep an obstacle. Even if you do get there, your fronts are synced with the rear and you get no "hunt" you get one shot at the line and if it's not the line over backwards you go.

I've also seen obstacles where my shaft truck binds up and more throttle just wedges it in harder. The clod on the other hand keeps wiggling and with out the front/rear tie (driveshafts) it eventually wiggles out.
 
With stock motors/gearing on my Clod it was very bad for this(Stalling) But since I put on my Lathe Motors and regeared. I haven't noticed it as much. I run a 9t pinion in the rear and a 10t pinion in the front. Even if my front wheels are freewheeling, I still have enough torque at the rear transmission to strip out the tranny gears. Are you all running Aluminum gears or something?
 
:?
Personally I dont see it as a problem as long as it is kept in check. Too much front tire speed is a pain but a little bit helps. Like I have always said, running lower gears in the rear axle helps alot. I run an 8T in the rear and a 9T in the front. A 10T in the front would help even more but I have not found that to be necessary.
For the first comp at Dirk's house, I built a box that would switch a resistor in series with the front motor. It werked great and really made the rear motor push up the obstacle. However I found that I hardly ever used it.

Clods rule at steep vertical climbs for several reasons and one of them is the independent axle drive. 8) BTW, there IS a way to fix it electronically. :twisted:
 
Ace said:
I used to think the front clod slip would kill a clod. Going to a few comps convinced me it actually helps.
Picture climbing near verticle (about the only thing that stops our trucks now) The low cg and the front tires spinning allow the front end to "hunt" and slide back and forth until they fall in that slightest crack or find an area that is just a little less steep and up the obstacle the truck goes. Try that with a shafty. Your CG is higher so you don't even get to try as steep an obstacle. Even if you do get there, your fronts are synced with the rear and you get no "hunt" you get one shot at the line and if it's not the line over backwards you go.

I've also seen obstacles where my shaft truck binds up and more throttle just wedges it in harder. The clod on the other hand keeps wiggling and with out the front/rear tie (driveshafts) it eventually wiggles out.

ding ding ding ding

Its not a problem.
 
I too had that problem annoy me, so I bumped up to 10 cells on an EVX. The added voltage made the truck a little jumpy, but a 55t lathe motor pretty much doesn't stall with 12 volts going to it.
 
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