Anyone solve THE clod problem?

[AdamF]

Krod_Clod, I've always thought about doing that. But in 1:1, they also lock up either the front or rear brakes in order to do a 180 degree turn like that. I can't immagine it working without brakes

I may try this. I have a 3 channel TQ3 that I could use the 3rd channel which I had modified for my rear steer with a 3 way switch(which I'm not using right now) so I could actually turn off the front or the rear axle on command. Not sure what good it would do, but it would be cool!


Also, I wonder how high amperage of a switch I would need. 20 amps? More? Or could I use a low amp switch and just switch the ground?

 

[Grizzly4x4]

I had a switch to turn off the rear motor on The Duke when I went to a Utah comp in July. I did not have it connected to the radio so I would just reach down and flip the switch manually.
It werked great, as long as the surface was smooth enough to drag a tire. I really liked it and wanted to keep using it but I had to decide between using a 3ch radio and having rear steer or going to a stick radio to have the "front dig" also. I decided to use 3 channels. Plus I found that I did not really use "front dig" all that much in competitions. 8) But it is still cool.

 

[AdamF]

So how'd you run it? Big HD switch to switch the hot wire, or a low amp switch to switch the ground?


Or maybe 2 small switches wired to a high amp DPDT relay?

 

[Grizzly4x4]

Also, I wonder how high amperage of a switch I would need. 20 amps? More? Or could I use a low amp switch and just switch the ground?

I used the switch that came with the clod for switching between "power" and "economy" modes.
As long as you dont switch it while the motors are under power the arcing is minimized and the switch should live fine. Mine did. 8)

 

[AdamF]

I don't know. If you run it to the hot wire, you are constantly putting the full amperage of the motors through the switch whenever you are on the gas.

How much amperage do the motors see?

I've burnt up a few cheap switches back in my car stereo days when I had them inline with my sub amp.

 

[Grizzly4x4]

Current flows through both the red and the black wires, not just the + wire Adam.
Putting it on the negative side may reduce the risk of arcing when switching under no load situations. And that is where I put it just to be safe. But under load all the wires will see the same current flow.
Motors pull alot of amps, Ace and I were figuring on like 25 amps. 8O

Like I said, I have done it and it werked fine. Is it the best way to go? Probly not, but I did not want some 1 lb. giant toggle switch on my truck.
8)
Unless you made the toggle switch look like a big ole shift lever. 8O :lol: :lol:

 

[AdamF]

OH, OK.


So if I ran this full time, I would have to have switches that could handle the current.

Sounds like it might be better to use 2 small switches wired to 2 big relays. Or could I wire it to one relay? I'd like to use my 3 way switch to control both front and rear motors.

 

[Grizzly4x4]

So if I ran this full time, I would have to have switches that could handle the current.

That's what I was getting at, to be safe you probobly should have switches rated at 25amps or something like that, but the 5amp Clodbuster switch never melted or even got hot. It would be your choice. 8)

Sounds like it might be better to use 2 small switches wired to 2 big relays. Or could I wire it to one relay? I'd like to use my 3 way switch to control both front and rear motors.

Now yer talkin turkey. Relays are the RIGHT way to do it. I dont know of a relay that would be able to switch between the two circuits (front and rear motors). All the relays I am familiar with can only control 1 circuit. The ones that are used to run off-road lights or fuel pumps would prolly werk but they are pretty big.

 

[AdamF]

Hmm well I have a bunch of switches and a SPST relay in front of me.

Thanks!

 

[Grizzly4x4]

Well, I dont know if I was really much help.
2 relays could be controlled by a SPDT center off switch and I think that might get it.
Anyway, let us know what you think if you decide to do it. It really is cool to see it pivot. :lol:

 

[Krod_Clod]

I used a 5amp switch from radio-crap. Part number 275-016A. This was a SPDT switch that has a "spring" to it...so when the servo releases, it returns the motor to "on". I simply spliced the - wire to the front motor (i have mine in parallel...so SR goes to rear motor...then i have connecting 12 gauge wire to the front motor). When the servo actuates, the switch is closed...when it is open, the motor works normally. With 8oz of BB's in my front tires the rear end will easily pivot the truck around either front tire (depending on which way i steer).

Keep in mind i am using a 6 channel stick radio, and have fully independent front, rear, crab, and standard 4ws. so i can point the wheels in any direction. This mod works well to get you turned around in tight spaces.

I do some Trials courses, and this is more of a mod for that style of running. For real crawling it doesnt have much use.


-i'll try to get pics up soon...working on a write-up of the mods i've done to the Gecko recently...its a whole new animal now, and i challenge anyone with a gecko to try and out-run me :lol:


-ML

 

[Grizzly4x4]

Sounds sweet Krod, that sounds similar to what I wanted to do but didnt have time to. I'd love to see some pics of that wiring harness you have.
Get that winch on there too. 8)
I just feel weird driving a truck with a stick radio, I haven't done that since the 80's, but with winches, front dig, rear dig, etc, I guess I better change my way of thinking. :lol:

 

[Krod_Clod]

Grizz

the winch is done, but im not satisfied with it...so back to the drawing board. I can however let you know how i made mine.

It was all too simple acutally. While working on my Associated GT i was disassembling the pull start...when WHAM!! i saw thie spool for the pull start line....hmmm i'll bet that would make a quality spool. A small amount of super JET later, i had the pull start spool from an old TRX pro .15 glued onto a Hitec high strength servo wheel. using spider line (fishing line) as my cable and a small caribiner as a hook. After modding an old 645mg to have continuous rotation, i put the entire thing on the front of my updated gecko chassis (dont think the upper plate is too short...i um...modifided that hehee). Then I hooked up the servo to my 6th channel (a rotating knob used for flaps on airplanes). that way i had forward and reverse proportional speeds.

worked like a charm...but unfortunately, it was too tall for my new rubi body. oh well...i really dont need it lol :lol:

Ill get pics of the wiring and the switch setup asap. gotta get them on my site and then on here. Thanks for the intrest.

-ML

 

[clodossal]

I believe that I have solved the problem, I have no motor stall at all and it runs as smooth as my shafty. Sure I do run 146.89:1 ratio but any other way I to had motor stall. by the way they are stock cans.

I use novak wire to my rear motor and then use automotive 12 volt wire from the rear motor to the front. This offers greater resistance to the front motor thus the rear thinks it has a greater load upfront and bingo, even(ish) power distubution.

Try it and see how you go.

Cheers
Ben

 

[Gimbal]

...automotive 12 volt wire from the rear motor to the front. This offers greater resistance to the front motor thus the rear thinks it has a greater load upfront and bingo, even(ish) power distubution.
Ben

..what guage wire from the rear to the front? You mean 12 guage?

I gotta try this out

 

[AdamF]

I did the same thing. Wired my rooster directly to the rear motor, and then from the rear motor ran some 16 guage wire to the front motor. I still have noticeable stalling. I have Mag Mayhems with 9 tooth pinions. I think a set of gear reductions is the key to eliminating motor stall in this case.

 

[clodossal]

It is Twin core 4mm(1.85mm2) 12v cable that i use, but AdamF may be right.

Can't hurt to try it though!!
Ben

 

[JasonInAugusta]

Play with wire all you want, but the actual improvement is coming from gear reduction.

If you measure the resistance of the two different gauge wires, it's negligible. You'll be hard pressed to see an actual ohm difference.

The larger wire will carry more current if needed, but it's the load that the motor is seeing, not the wire, that's causing the stall.

Standard RC batt cable, such as Dean's Wet Noodle, will carry enough current to melt connectors and de-solder connections...and the only time we're seeing amp draw that high is when the motor is under a severe load.

Which brings us back to gearing...not wires.

 

[Ace]

What Jason said.

 

[SR5Dave]

What Jason said.

...Hey Ace, I haven't been paying attention, does anyone believe us that it isn't a problem? :lol: :lol: