Ascender Wheel Base & Link Reference Guide

[Yeti.stealth]

Sticky this please!

 

[cowboyona426]

Sticky this please!

Are there no mods assigned to this forum on this site? I've tried to find out who the mods are because I tried to post a new thread about my truck and it said it needed mod approval and I can't find anyone to ask about it. Seems like there is a need for a mod in here and several members that would be great candidates

That said, how many are still running their K10 on stock wheelbase (WB2 if my non-caffeinated brain recalls correctly) and how many are running something different? If you changed your WB, what were the pros and cons? In my limited experience (and I'm new to this game so that doesn't help) it seems like a little more WB would help in many situations.

 

[Browneye]

Are there no mods assigned to this forum on this site? I've tried to find out who the mods are because I tried to post a new thread about my truck and it said it needed mod approval and I can't find anyone to ask about it. Seems like there is a need for a mod in here and several members that would be great candidates

That said, how many are still running their K10 on stock wheelbase (WB2 if my non-caffeinated brain recalls correctly) and how many are running something different? If you changed your WB, what were the pros and cons? In my limited experience (and I'm new to this game so that doesn't help) it seems like a little more WB would help in many situations.

You can add the WB4 spacer kit to the K10 and extend the rear out, puts it right about 11-7/8". Works well, just limits turning radius a bit, but helps with steep climbing.

Outboarding the shocks also greatly helps, as does some kind of weight on the front axle, be it hubs, knuckles, beeftubes, whatever.

 

[Natedog]

Sticky this please!

X2 :lmao:"thumbsup"

Are there no mods assigned to this forum on this site? I've tried to find out who the mods are because I tried to post a new thread about my truck and it said it needed mod approval and I can't find anyone to ask about it. Seems like there is a need for a mod in here and several members that would be great candidates

That said, how many are still running their K10 on stock wheelbase (WB2 if my non-caffeinated brain recalls correctly) and how many are running something different? If you changed your WB, what were the pros and cons? In my limited experience (and I'm new to this game so that doesn't help) it seems like a little more WB would help in many situations.

Good question, used to say in every section who the mods were so in case you needed help.

My K10 is on WB3, like Chris said. Started as WB2, stretched rear links to WB4, thus resulting in WB3, but with center skid and frame rails in different location. "thumbsup"

You can add the WB4 spacer kit to the K10 and extend the rear out, puts it right about 11-7/8". Works well, just limits turning radius a bit, but helps with steep climbing.

Outboarding the shocks also greatly helps, as does some kind of weight on the front axle, be it hubs, knuckles, beeftubes, whatever.

Yes.

Yes.

 

[cowboyona426]

You can add the WB4 spacer kit to the K10 and extend the rear out, puts it right about 11-7/8". Works well, just limits turning radius a bit, but helps with steep climbing.

Outboarding the shocks also greatly helps, as does some kind of weight on the front axle, be it hubs, knuckles, beeftubes, whatever.

Did you extend yours? If so, do you feel it was worth it?

X2 :lmao:"thumbsup"



Good question, used to say in every section who the mods were so in case you needed help.

My K10 is on WB3, like Chris said. Started as WB2, stretched rear links to WB4, thus resulting in WB3, but with center skid and frame rails in different location. "thumbsup"

Yes.

Yes.

Same question for you, do you feel like stretching the rear links was a worthwhile mod?


I do plan on adding some weight eventually, still just trying to learn the truck's limits and capabilities.

 

[M1tch]

I make my own links up, and had my K10 at stock wheelbase, so extended it 6mm on the rear just to help a little with climbing. It definitely makes a difference, I just didn't want to go the whole 12mm.

Front and rear axle weights help as well by lowering the cg.

 

[Browneye]

Did you extend yours? If so, do you feel it was worth it?

Yes, and yes. ;-)
My best Ascender comp-crawler is WB4. It doesn't have any trouble with tight-radius turning on a course, and with weighted axles and hubs it will side-hill with the best of them. Now if I could just drive it. LOL


My K10 is pretty heavily modified as well - all of the free mods, body is lowered, beeftubes, RULR's, hub weights, 45T motor, upgraded servo and esc, outboarded shocks, tucked bumper, but the basic chassis and drivetrain are stock. Extending the wheelbase cants the shocks forward a bit, but I find it unnoticeable in running the truck. This one drives like it's glued to the surface. ;-) And with the standard PB RB's - the 4.45" size ones. With CI foams traction is phenomenal.


I have also done a few of my buddy's rigs and they prefer the 12" wheelbase as well. If you have a full body you have to match the wheel wells of your shell - but with a truggy rear you have much more flexibility. Virtually all of our local competitive C2 comp crawlers are truggies.

I hope this isn't jacking the thread too bad.

Here's a K10 extended:





And my WB4 Ascender:




Here are all three wheelbases - WB4, WB2, and WB3. I don't have a WB1 - the only one I know of that is was the early Bronco.

 

[StratRC]

If you want to go to WB4 from any of the shorter ones, do you *have* to switch the servo from sideways to forward? I don't have the other servo mount or an extension for the steering rod...

 

[Yeti.stealth]

No you don’t have to change the servo mount.

 

[Schs2013]

Is there anyone able to post up about improvement for drive shafts angle for a K10 WB2 290mm front is really sharp not what to do.

Sent from my FRD-L14 using Tapatalk

 

[Schs2013]

Also running the gcmracing setup so its still in mock up stages.

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[Natedog]

Driveshaft angle doesn’t look too bad, mine at wb2 was fine. Depends on hire much down travel you have though. Could rotate axle housing to desired driveshaft angle (check for steering linkage clearance), then rotate chubs to desired caster (again check steering linkage clearance), drill axle housing and install chub retaining screws.

 

[Schs2013]

Re: Ascender Wheel Base & Link Reference Guide

Driveshaft angle doesn’t look too bad, mine at wb2 was fine. Depends on hire much down travel you have though. Could rotate axle housing to desired driveshaft angle (check for steering linkage clearance), then rotate chubs to desired caster (again check steering linkage clearance), drill axle housing and install chub retaining screws.

Thanks i fixed is with a little bit longer link. From 61mm to 66mm. It makes a noticeable difference in the angle. Which also rotated the axles housings just enough. Im a happier with this angle

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[Natedog]

Re: Ascender Wheel Base & Link Reference Guide

Thanks i fixed is with a little bit longer link. From 61mm to 66mm. It makes a noticeable difference in the angle. Which also rotated the axles housings just enough. Im a happier with this angle

You're welcome, manual was in error as the front upper link should use the 61mm to get proper caster. Looks great now!