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Axial rr10

Well after being out of the rc auto hobby for a few years in back with an rr10 preorder. Looks a lot different and cooler then my old 2012 jeep scx10. Had a lot of money in that thing. I'm already looking at upgrade parts. :)
 
So it looks like I didn't miss something and in fact Axial, while they make some seriously kick a$$ RCs, also tell some huge a$$ lies.

Well maybe not lies, maybe they are in denial about how easy it is to access the RR10 electronic components. It's like when an anorexic person who's all emaciated looks into the mirror and declares to themselves and to the world "I'M FAT!!! LOOK EVERYBODY, COME AND SEE HOW FAT I AM!!!."

Seriously Axial marketing department and everyone in Axial who authorized that marketing material about how easy it is to access the electronic components; you all need therapy.

So the axial RR10 page indicates that there is "Easy Access to Electronic Components" that you "simply drop the skid plate and remove the shocks at chassis to gain access to electronic components." But then I look at the instruction manual and it looks like no less than 12 screws must be unfastened to remove the cage from skid plate. Am I reading this wrong, or is this really what is required to gain "easy access to electronic components."? I love the way it looks and I'm definitely going to get one but man that is some annoying marketing if I'm reading this correctly. If I'm wrong then I'll be relieved.

There are an additional 2 screws underneath the chassis which need to be removed. I also missed those at first.

Its a hobby. 10-12 screws to much of a pain? Are you serious?

You should see me work on my Class 3 W.E. Rock tube buggy... Getting to the electronics, is like surgery. Removing body panels and a custom interior, hoping nothing breaks or comes unglued. Then tucking all the wires away, and reassembling to hide everything. Not easy with a full-interior and tube buggy.

Backing out 10 screws is a piece of cake dude.
 
Weird as it sounds- I know a guy with thousands$$ in the hobby, and he literally doesnt do anything but drive them. Has another guy repair and put together all his parts and kits. He's not a bad guy. Just richer than us and no desire to wrench. Drives the hell out of them. If I lived closer I'd be his Rc mechanic for what I'm sure he pays.
I prefer to do all my own stuff so I know it's right. And 10 screws isn't bad. Replacing summit diffs now that sucks. Used to go summit trailing every week, every month I think I blew a diff. Finally sold the pos. Would be my favorite if it weren't for those baby gears.
 
Its a hobby. 10-12 screws to much of a pain? Are you serious?

You should see me work on my Class 3 W.E. Rock tube buggy... Getting to the electronics, is like surgery. Removing body panels and a custom interior, hoping nothing breaks or comes unglued. Then tucking all the wires away, and reassembling to hide everything. Not easy with a full-interior and tube buggy.

Backing out 10 screws is a piece of cake dude.

Ok I get it. So for rock crawlers these 12 screws being removed to access electronics does qualify as easy, relatively speaking. Relative to my experience it is not. I have the Yeti XL and don't have any rock crawlers. I think the Yeti and Yeti XL are truly easy to access the electronics/remove the cage: just remove two body pins and 2 screws if you want to completely remove the cage. So that's where my perspective was coming from. Will you be able to access the pinion/spur and slipper clutch without removing the cage do you think?

I was having a little fun with my post. Apologies if I offended anyone. Like I said the RR10 looks amazing and I plan to get one for sure. Will probly wait for the kit version though.
 
I love the wrenching and making my own parts like links and accessories, body panels etc... I remember the first rc car I had in 1980 was a Sand scorcher by Tamiya, nothing to difficult under the body, totally tricked it out. As well as we could back then. I had a ball. A long way from my Wraith or my SCX10 or even my Yeti and Exo. It's a hobby and ya gotta take all the little things and make the best of it. At the end of the day if you love it. It will be your own creation once you upgrade the heck out of it. Do a little custom work add a few things. If it requires some wrenching enjoy it. And if that takes some time so be it. It's fun. Just my opinion of course.
 
How would the Vanguard setup from the Yeti do in the RR10? I like brushless setups a lot but don't have the dough to dump on a full Tekin setup.
 
The Vanguard setup would work pretty good IMHO, but the slow crawl wouldn't be good because it's not sensored.
 
How would the Vanguard setup from the Yeti do in the RR10? I like brushless setups a lot but don't have the dough to dump on a full Tekin setup.

I'm kind of wondering the same thing. I should be pretty good for go fast stuff. But I'm not sure how all the plastic would hold up.
 
Weird as it sounds- I know a guy with thousands$$ in the hobby, and he literally doesnt do anything but drive them. Has another guy repair and put together all his parts and kits. He's not a bad guy. Just richer than us and no desire to wrench. Drives the hell out of them. If I lived closer I'd be his Rc mechanic for what I'm sure he pays.
.

if it's the guy I'm thinking of he doesn't pay as much as we might think .

Will you be able to access the pinion/spur and slipper clutch without removing the cage do you think?.

Every Axial rig has had this feature. Some were definitely harder than others but always doable.
 
Is anyone else a little disappointed with the servo being exposed right out in front on a "scale" rig. I guess that is the easiest way to steer a solid axle but I just don't like the way it looks. No I do not have a solution just saying.............
 
Is anyone else a little disappointed with the servo being exposed right out in front on a "scale" rig. I guess that is the easiest way to steer a solid axle but I just don't like the way it looks. No I do not have a solution just saying.............

Ever seen a wraith or scx10? Probably the most successful scale-ish trucks ever made...
 
Is anyone else a little disappointed with the servo being exposed right out in front on a "scale" rig. I guess that is the easiest way to steer a solid axle but I just don't like the way it looks. No I do not have a solution just saying.............


Sure beats a 3 link on a hydro rig.
 
Same shocks as the Wraiths just blue. The springs are the same 14x70mm, also available in different weights but blue. What I think is interesting is how you can choose rear Wraith or rear Yeti length shocks depending on which upper mount you use. Or both if you want to run dual rears. Definitely some cool factor there.
 
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Every Axial rig has had this feature. Some were definitely harder than others but always doable.

Original AX-10 didn't, and pretty sure the original SCX-10's didn't either. I personally don't like slipper clutches but they seem to be on every product these days.
 
Original AX-10 didn't, and pretty sure the original SCX-10's didn't either. I personally don't like slipper clutches but they seem to be on every product these days.

Well played sir.
Don't remember that but i do remember smoking a lot of weed around that time
 
Is anyone else a little disappointed with the servo being exposed right out in front on a "scale" rig. I guess that is the easiest way to steer a solid axle but I just don't like the way it looks. No I do not have a solution just saying.............

The steering servo was the first thing I noticed about the RR10 when I saw the Tower Hobbies "leak" catalog picture. I guess being out front, it is more noticeable than it is on the other Axial models. Once I saw the product website and video, I forgot about the steering servo. Maybe you can pull the decal off of it and it won't stick out so much.

I just can't wait to get mine. I haven't ever been this excited about an rc.
 
Will you be able to access the pinion/spur and slipper clutch without removing the cage do you think?

On that I'm going to say no I don't think so, spur is to the rear rather than front like a Yeti but the manual shows a similar style spur cover that has 2 screws accessed from above, which is blocked by the interior.
Looks like the skid will have to be dropped to get to it, which is actually not any worse than the Wraith but I'll concede is going to suck. Being able to just dive up from the underside with a hex driver would have been nice.

Just reading the manual I notice the cover is held to the back plate with M2.6 screws, drill the back plate to 3mm it may be possible to get an M3 from the underside to bite into the cover lug, no need to drop the skid.
 
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