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Axial rr10

I went through 4 cases before throwing it in a box and buying an alloy cased servo. Brushless motors and solid locked axles break stuff.
 
I went through 4 cases before throwing it in a box and buying an alloy cased servo. Brushless motors and solid locked axles break stuff.
So it's all about the aluminum casing? Just found the savox 1283sg. Looks pretty nice too for money. Wish we had this talk last week!

Did you run into something with the servo?

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1283sg has been going strong for a while now.

I don't run my stuff in to the ground, but I do run it hard, and nearly an hour every day.

I'm still trying to find a weak spot on the bomber, it's holding up well.
 
1283sg has been going strong for a while now.

I don't run my stuff in to the ground, but I do run it hard, and nearly an hour every day.

I'm still trying to find a weak spot on the bomber, it's holding up well.
Stock bomber?

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Downtown, I bet you will be fine with plastic case unless you drive your shit into the ground like maslin.:flipoff:

After reading his Wraith thread, I thought Maslin was just one of those people who could break a brick with a pillow. Then I drove a buddy's decently fast Wraith and the Hitec servo case didn't last more than a couple less than perfect jumps (not insane crashes either). I realized he was right about aluminum cased servos for these trucks.
 
Stock bomber?

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Not stock at all. Never even plugged a battery in stock :lmao:

After reading his Wraith thread, I thought Maslin was just one of those people who could break a brick with a pillow. Then I drove a buddy's decently fast Wraith and the Hitec servo case didn't last more than a couple less than perfect jumps (not insane crashes either). I realized he was right about aluminum cased servos for these trucks.

Solid axles and solid steering create all kinds of different forces than our servos were intended to handle. Hanging a metal lever down off the front that hits every rock doesn't help either... I switched to an alloy case and moved the servo back, so the horn was behind the tie rod, never had another issue on my Wraith. I'm now running the Dlux truss, smack the bottom of the servo on everything, but the gears are safe!
 
Can you provide a picture of the dlux truss and servo mount? I think I've read of this and seen pictures but this is my first ar60 axle truck and am not sure of how to configure this.

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Nevermind! Google'd it. Are they all carbon fiber? Is the a drag link you can purchase that is designed for a servo in this position or do you need to make your own?

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The older ones were carbon, but they were breaking I think? They are now G10. The steering link and upper links will have to be made.
 
Did a lot of testing and tuning this weekend. After breaking my last rear upper link I had in stock, in a pinch I used a spare set of RTR rear lowers in place of the uppers and it works great! No clearance issues... cartwheeled on the street twice, 4 flip endo while coming down a field at full speed and braked too hard and nothing broke at all.

Also went from a 30wt to a 15wt in my dual Pro-Line setup (all around) and couldnt be happier with the current setup."thumbsup"
 
I had a handful of full speed barrel rolls yesterday as well. Dlux truss worked great, bent both rear axles :mrgreen:

Really happy with the Bomber, it just works.
 
I had a handful of full speed barrel rolls yesterday as well. Dlux truss worked great, bent both rear axles :mrgreen:

Really happy with the Bomber, it just works.

bent my front right axle :mrgreen: lol
Im so freaking pleased how my Bomber is set up right now, 6 packs straight and no broken bits...this after not being able to get thru a full pack without something breaking for the past month or so.

Soon as my white Methods come in ill take some updated pics. "thumbsup"
 
:mrgreen:

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kBuWoeg8LGY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Then we crawled for a while. Good day on the rock pile.
 
I have a bomber kit with 35t rc4wd and the motor gets pretty hot with stock gears.I want more speed but I want to stay brushed for know.I run 3s with hw 1060 brushed esc,I know not the best but does the job.Is the traxxas 21t titan good choice for more speed?Will I need a change in gearing?One more question,do yeti spurs fit on rr10?Here some pictures of my bomber.

DSC05877_zps8zd44gvh.jpg


DSC05862_zpsw1slr6d5.jpg


DSC05861_zpsen4zbjzf.jpg


DSC05858_zpsts1ky0ut.jpg


DSC05915_zps7prl2rwf.jpg


DSC05916_zpsfvfhpw6u.jpg


DSC05925_zpsmjwn4cao.jpg


DSC05919_zps75rshnsu.jpg


DSC05923_zpsc5wfp5q1.jpg


DSC05948_zpsyqzqxezn.jpg


"thumbsup"
 
I have a bomber kit with 35t rc4wd and the motor gets pretty hot with stock gears.I want more speed but I want to stay brushed for know.I run 3s with hw 1060 brushed esc,I know not the best but does the job.Is the traxxas 21t titan good choice for more speed?Will I need a change in gearing?
 
Before I started the 2speed install last night, I was able to run a few packs with an open front diff- lots of fun, can take turns a lot faster.
Until I bashed it into a 8 inch ditch, and somehow managed to sheer all 3 screws on the motor (that holds body of motor to front cap)
Initial thoughts was I messed up a trans gear or spur, but was a quick fix.

I do have dual sets of Pro-Line shocks (front & rear),
Going to switch to 15wt shock oil (currently 30wt) figured double the dampening so go half wt on the oil.

Did you replace the motor screws on the case? I’ve lost 4 of mine and no one can give me an answer of where or what to get for replacement.
 
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