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Best for bang for your buck driveshafts

Too much trouble, spline bones from one place, yokes from another etc + shipping.
BTW half price (?) or $5.60 is for only 1 (one) short (!) male end.

And I just don't like MIPs.

$35 and 2 weeks of waiting = two long steel universal drive shafts :razz:

For now running traxxas e-maxx rear and axial WB8 front.
 
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I just ordered the Junfac shafts for my rig.. Some buddy's have been beating them for months now and they're flawless. Only $34 for a pair is cheap too.

As to the Maxx shafts.. I ran on on the rear of my Wraith and it was flawless.. It's lighter and cheaper, plus my LHS sells mostly Traxxas stuff and has them in stock.. Couldn't bring my self to spend the money on a silly little output extender or I would have ran the max shafts on front too.
That silly little adapter is like $30 ( WAY!!! Over priced for a hunk of metal.


Sent from my highly abused iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have been having alot of bad luck with driveshafts lately, ive ran everything from punisher shafts from rc4wd to what im running now which are traxxas 4x4 slash shafts with metal yokes, im wanting a little imput on what kind of shafts you guys are running, or what you recommend, thanks!!!!

I've always had really good luck with the cheaper traxxas shafts, when I spent good money on fancy driveshafts they had issues.

Tried JunFac SS shafts on a CR-01, bound up the first run in the sand, fixed, bound up next trip, removed and threw in trash.

Had good luck with MIP's on AX10, but bulky and heavy and kinda expensive.

Used Traxxas shafts I cobbled together on my TCS chassis, scale build, no problems, no binding, no breakage.
 
Too much trouble, spline bones from one place, yokes from another etc + shipping.
BTW half price (?) or $5.60 is for only 1 (one) short (!) male end.

And I just don't like MIPs.

$35 and 2 weeks of waiting = two long steel universal drive shafts :razz:

For now running traxxas e-maxx rear and axial WB8 front.


you don't like MIP that's one,but they are very strong and metal can never compare to plastic
 
One set of my Junfacs are almost 3 yrs old, I've only had to replace one pin.
Other than that they have been flawless!
I now own 4 sets. I will never run a different driveshaft again. And the spur cover fits.
In my trucks I run a 4.5 SC motor, 10.5 novak brushless, and a modified13.5 silvercan novak. And a tekin handwound 35t in my son's truck.
 
you don't like MIP that's one,but they are very strong and metal can never compare to plastic
MIPs are not the only metal shafts.

And I can compare metal to plastic. Plastic is lighter. I think this is the main reason to install Traxxas E-maxx drive shafts (not Stampede/Slash), they are thick and strong enough IMO.
I kind of regret I already ordered metal shafts and not longer tramsmission output to adopt E-maxx shaft.
 
Got steel shafts from China.
Short, they are disappointment. MIPs are better.
Longer, <a href="http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/434217-scx10-honcho-mods-2.html#post4343430">link to my thread with pics</a>.

So this is not a good way to go. Rather spend $$ on CI tranny outputs to use e-maxx shafts. Or you can always get MIPs "thumbsup"
 
I use this setup on mine. It has worked great plus you can switch to 32 pitch pinion gears. I haven't broke an drive shaft yet knock on wood!!. I run a 7T H&H puller motor on 3s.

 
MIPs are not the only metal shafts.

And I can compare metal to plastic. Plastic is lighter. I think this is the main reason to install Traxxas E-maxx drive shafts (not Stampede/Slash), they are thick and strong enough IMO.
I kind of regret I already ordered metal shafts and not longer tramsmission output to adopt E-maxx shaft.


who said that they are the only metal shafts?i am runing crawler comps,also MIP in my rig,does not affect at all the performance or stability in my rig.as far for the trail truck,i need to have durability,and play more then repair"thumbsup"
 
It's a pic from <a href="http://www.crawlerinnovations.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=402&category_id=25&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=83">CI web site</a>. You can find part # there.
I would suggest to use output yokes # 4928X, not 4927X. I tried both. The only difference is set screws in 4927 are 1 short and 1 long, in 4928 they are same size.


Also check <a href="http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/crawler-innovations/393119-scx-ax-10-complete-driveshaft-upgrade-kit-c-i.html">post on this forum</a>.
 
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It's a pic from <a href="http://www.crawlerinnovations.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=402&category_id=25&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=83">CI web site</a>. You can find part # there.
I would suggest to use output yokes # 4928X, not 4927X. I tried both. The only difference is set screws in 4927 are 1 short and 1 long, in 4928 they are same size.


Also check <a href="http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/crawler-innovations/393119-scx-ax-10-complete-driveshaft-upgrade-kit-c-i.html">post on this forum</a>.

Thanks, thats what I thought but couldn't tell from your tiny pic. 8) That's a great looking setup, I might add the sweet BWD HD motor plate too! Very nice how it picks up the fourth mounting point to help reduce trans case and motor plate flex!
http://www.crawlerinnovations.com/i...ategory_id=25&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=83
 
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Thanks, thats what I thought but couldn't tell from your tiny pic. 8) That's a great looking setup, I might add the sweet BWD HD motor plate too! Very nice how it picks up the fourth mounting point to help reduce trans case and motor plate flex!
BWD Heavy Duty Axial Motor Plate

Sorry about small pic. looks like you guys got it figured it out though "thumbsup"
it is pretty nice setup for the money
 
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