Blue Rattle Can Recommendations Needed

[jwag1973]

I’m building a new Crawler and have decided to buy a unpainted body and try to paint it myself. I’m gonna have to use rattle cans as a air brush isn’t an option at the moment.

I’d like a medium blue metallic probably backed with silver to keep it from being too dark. I’ve read a little bit online and haven’t been able to make a decision as some blues are reported to end up being a little purple and I don’t want that.

I want a true metallic blue color with depth? Any help would be appreciated. Also I seem to be able to fine Tamiya easier if that matters, though I can order online if needed. With this being my first time painting, I’d like to get it right in reference to the color I want.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Tamiya has the best rattle cans. This is their dark metallic blue backed with their gold and then black. I had their regular metallic blue and backed it with silver and it got too light for me.

 

[jwag1973]

Tamiya has the best rattle cans. This is their dark metallic blue backed with their gold and then black. I had their regular metallic blue and backed it with silver and it got too light for me.

That Looks Great, thanks for sharing!

 

[JatoTheRipper]

That Looks Great, thanks for sharing!

You're welcome. Does that color work for you or is it too dark?

If I'm not using Tamiya paint then I use Duratrax.

https://www.duratrax.com/paint/index.html

I believe I painted the below with either Duratrax or Tamiya standard Metallic Blue and backed with silver. It looked even lighter in person. I never liked it.

 

[jwag1973]

You're welcome. Does that color work for you or is it too dark?

If I'm not using Tamiya paint then I use Duratrax.

https://www.duratrax.com/paint/index.html

I believe I painted the below with either Duratrax or Tamiya standard Metallic Blue and backed with silver. It looked even lighter in person. I never liked it.

That’s exactly the color I’m going for! Thanks so much. After looking at it again, how do you think it would be backed in black? I don’t want it too light of a color.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

That’s exactly the color I’m going for! Thanks so much. After looking at it again, how do you think it would be backed in black? I don’t want it too light of a color.

It'll be a little darker. How much? I'm not sure. The best way to find out is test spray on some scrap Lexan pieces.

 

[lilws6]

I can’t for the life of me remember what tamiya color this was but it was a blue metallic backed in silver and gunmetal I think. Had a real nice metallic look


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[67CamaroSS]

I did a classic RC10 in Tamiya metallic blue backed in silver and was very happy with the color. I can’t post pics yet. Send me a pm and I can send you some pics.

 

[jmitchell13]

I use Tamiya metallic blue PS-16. I do a couple coats of the base color. Backed with white will make it brighter, backed with silver will deepen the color.

 

[67CamaroSS]

I recently test painted a piece of lexan with Tamiya Metallic Red, then masked off sections to test different backing, I did one in black, one white, one silver and one with nothing. I didn’t notice much difference between the silver and white, but I did see the benefit of some backing. I can’t post pics yet, but I can email the pic to anyone interested.

 

[JacktheRipper]

I’m building a new Crawler and have decided to buy a unpainted body and try to paint it myself. I’m gonna have to use rattle cans as a air brush isn’t an option at the moment.

I’d like a medium blue metallic probably backed with silver to keep it from being too dark. I’ve read a little bit online and haven’t been able to make a decision as some blues are reported to end up being a little purple and I don’t want that.

I want a true metallic blue color with depth? Any help would be appreciated. Also I seem to be able to fine Tamiya easier if that matters, though I can order online if needed. With this being my first time painting, I’d like to get it right in reference to the color I want.

2 - things airbrush work best for smaller parts & areas. Unless you have the correct tip to spray large areas. Full bodies need wider spray pattens.

second: Tamiya is good rattle can paint with constant color, from batch to batch.

Spray in layers, resist trying to spray a finish coat too soon. Read the DIRECTIONs on the can. It will tell the time needed between coats.

Then let the model set 24 hr works for me, just my own preference

Screw it up, let the paint cure, completely. Fine sand paper, smooth out the defect, just work that area. Your gaol is trying to blend (smooth) messed up paint with the good paint. Then redcoat and it will come out even.

Painting is not hard, knowing how to correct mistakes is the key everyone makes them

BTW 2 - 3 cans .... have enough to finish the job. Have extra, return it. Don't get caught short.

pep
FLY NAVY

 

[58_Willys]

What he said...

When painting multiple parts, whether it be a cab and bed on lexan body or doors, hood and body, on a hard shell, try to paint them together. This will keep the hues the same throughout.

Ever seen a 1:1 that has had repairs done and the door or hood are a different shade from the rest of the body? That's because they only painted that area...it's hard to get it even, unless it's all done at the same time. A New Bright JK body is a good example of extra pieces that might be painted at different times. When I have a situation like that, I will try to place the parts back on the body where they go and tape them in place, then paint them together so it's even. "thumbsup"