Burning holes (welding)

[Redfinger]

I had to do a repair once on my VW(real car) and it invloved welding some thin stuff. I too have a Lincoln 110 gas set up. try this, get uyour self two wash cloths and a bucket of water, dip the cloths into water, then wrap the cloths around the pipe on either ends of your weld, dont let the area your joining get wet, keep it about a 1/2 in or so away. Then quickly tac away. The wet cloths may act as a heat sink and absorb the heat before the metal does, one other suggestion, get some broonze or brass or copper tubing w/ a ID of the same OD as the brake line, or you could get some SOLID brass stock that si the same OD as the ID of the tubing.....you follow?

Great

Now take the solid brass stock and put it inside the tubing, but your two ends to gether and tac. The brass will not weld, and it will pull the ehat from the tubing.

Goood luck

Ashton

 

[mascman]

I had to do a repair once on my VW(real car) and it invloved welding some thin stuff. I too have a Lincoln 110 gas set up. try this, get uyour self two wash cloths and a bucket of water, dip the cloths into water, then wrap the cloths around the pipe on either ends of your weld, dont let the area your joining get wet, keep it about a 1/2 in or so away. Then quickly tac away. The wet cloths may act as a heat sink and absorb the heat before the metal does, one other suggestion, get some broonze or brass or copper tubing w/ a ID of the same OD as the brake line, or you could get some SOLID brass stock that si the same OD as the ID of the tubing.....you follow?

Great

Now take the solid brass stock and put it inside the tubing, but your two ends to gether and tac. The brass will not weld, and it will pull the ehat from the tubing.

Goood luck

Ashton

This won't do anything for this type of situation asyou are just pulling the trigger for a split second or two. It's more the fact that the material is too thin than trying to draw heat from it.

It's almost like just making a bunch of spot welds to get it tacked together...definitely a pain in the azz.

 

[Biohazard]

Tough to do, but turn down the heat as much as possible. I have heard of many tricks to pull the heat out but nothing worked for me. If you must weld try a tig, but soldering would probably be your best bet.

 

[EvilTwin v2]

Be careful with too little heat. You still need to get enough penetration so that it'll hold together.

 

[GiXeR]

If your using MIG, you need gas. Gas not only makes the weld easier to obtain, but it also will give you less spit and slag. Flux Core is good for thicker material that is solid. On top of that, the Lincoln 140 EZ that you have is capable of 5/16" solid steel and it is even too powerful for 1/8" steel, I know, I own one and it is great for 1/4" plate. If you want to really to continue to weld small stuff like brakeline, it would really be worth it you get a hobby TIG welder, that way you can hand feed your rod and control your heat constantly.

What is a hobby tig and who makes one?

 

[CrawlMater]

I am using a Lincoln Weld pack 100, no gas, with 0.035 wire. So far I've found that if you clean the steel really well you get less blisters and burn holes. As well as fast hands, not just fast trigger work. The faster movement seems to create nice clean joints with minimal mess. JMO

 

[CrawlMater]

Sorry guys how dumb of me to forget, a major part of my success is in how i attach the ground cable. I always weld the 4 main pillars of the chassis to a steel plate (usually 1/16th) 6"x16". I tac the chassis down close to one end and always attach the ground at the opposite end this kills alot of excess current and allows cooler welding.

Very important that you only tac the chassis down, if you build it up to much the beneficial effect will be lost.

Really hope this helps....