CC-01 Landcruiser 40 build

[derb]

Sadly I will have to retire my awesome Brat shell with the new length of the rig. Looking at something like Proline's Chevy C10 to replace it though, I love utes [trucks for you Americans]. 99% set on running a GMade portal axle now. I own a GMade R1 already so have plenty of spares and parts, just need a few bits off Junfac like the actual housing and diff gears, etc. Using it will kill off any issues I would have had in making a rear axle turn the wheels in the same direction as the fronts with the portal knuckles. Plus it will give me a slight under drive in the rear which will help turning radius. All the SCX10s I'll be competing against have under/over drive diff gear combos. And yes I meant width with the hexes, doh. I need to get a set for my R1 since the pins almost always drop out when taking the wheels off.

 

[derb]

Welp, no portal knuckles available on the face of this planet. Going down the SCX10 rear axle path now, at least I can run a proper underdrive ratio though.

 

[lonleycreeper]

Yet another day, yet another mod, or mods. I know everyone has their own take on relocating the 4-link mounts, but this is what I did. The Junfac 4-link kit is nice quality gear, but the body mount bolts for the long arms in the 4-link stick out so far its not funny. I've been getting more hangups with the Junfac links than before installing them, so I haven't been very happy lately. Which leads me on to the Junfac side bars, which I have removed as they were another hangup issue. They look great but are much more intended for the pure scale guys I guess. And finally, I spaced the front suspension bracket off the body with 6mm powder coated spacers that came with the various Junfac kits.

QUOTE]

how well does this mod hold up? I see this rig gets regular use and just wondering about the longevity.

 

[derb]

I've had no problems at all with this rig. You're right in that it gets used and abused pretty frequently but nothing has failed or broken ever. The worst that happen is the rear shocks sometimes unscrew themselves from the bottom eyes where they connect to the axle, but locktite fixed that easily.

 

[Steve Hipsley]

Started rebuilding the drivetrain last night. Got the rear axle completed, locked properly with the G parts, sealed bearings and lots of grease. However, when building it, MoonUnit noted that there is some diff slop inside the axle. The diff itself can move a few millimeters left to right and this will cause early wear on the pinion input gear. After looking for some shims/spacers, MoonUnit had an idea and we put one of the old 5mmx11mm bearings on the left driveshaft between the diff and the first sealed bearing on the axle. It fit perfectly, but we still had slop. So I had the bright idea to add a 5mmx8mm bearing as well. This combo fits PERFECTLY into the diff housing. Neither bearings are touching surfaces, so you can use old seized bearings, or even the plastic and copper ones that come in the stock CC01 kit. There is now absolutely ZERO slop in the rear axle. I would encourage you all to have a crack at this mod as it will most likely save you from having to rebuild the diff again.

Thanks for the mod! I did it last night and there's no more slop!

 

[OkinawaCrawler]

Are you still running this truck? Any updates?