Cheap Rally car???

[pigeonfarmboy]

Congrats. Should be a load of fun!

 

[TURTLE]

there is no such thing as a performance "chip" for a Neon. You can look for an ECM from a same model-year ACR, but that's more of a high-speed mod. For rallyx, the stock ECM should be fine.

Check out the Rallynotes website. They've gone through a lot of trial and error and have a pretty good car.

Here's another cool Neon rally site: www.glhracing.com

I figured as much I would never buy anything like that, sounds like a scam, but I was curious.
I don't plan to mod the engine at all for a while, going to try in the stock class, til I feel I need more power.
I have been reading Rally notes religiously over the last few days, that is a great build and really informative site for exactly what I am doing.

Thanks for the new site, time to read."thumbsup"

Congrats. Should be a load of fun!

I can't wait!!!!

 

[BJoe]

Neons were always very competitive in SCCA's Showroom Stock C class. Actually, there might have been one year the whole field were Neons. I'm not sure if it was because a more competitive car came around, or they couldn't run them anymore simply because the car had to be within a certain age limit for the class. This was right when the 1999 Civic Si came out, I remember because I'm a Honda fan and I remember it was one of the only cars to give those Neons any competition.

I remember reading something about that a while back in either Mopar Action or Mopar Now (same guy and publisher.) IIRC the editor was pissed as hell because after (pre-Dahlmer) Chrysler dumped a bunch of support and sponsorship money into SCCA (which as supposedly short on cash at the time) they pretty much re-wrote the rules a few years later and allowed less competitive cars to be modified beyond "stock" while not allowing the Neon racers to do the same which pushed the Neon's out of competition. IIRC he was so pissed that he refused to renew his SCCA membership at the time besides the scathing editorial.

 

[TURTLE]

Wondering if anyone can help me interpret the rules...
So I plan to gut the interior and build a full cage, but I don't want to put the stock stuff back in besides the dash.
My question is do I have too?
The rules say that I can't take things out or replace them with lighter parts, but the cage I will be adding will add a couple hundred pounds.
So will I have to put the rear seat and carpet back in for this?
I highlighted the sections I am questioning
I'll ask around on some other sites as well, but I know we have a well rounded group here."thumbsup"

6.2
ELIGIBLE VEHICLES
A RallyCross event is open to any fixed‐roof production based vehicle (including convertibles with a factory hardtop attached, targa‐types with factory panel in place, t‐tops with factory panels in place) that can pass safety inspection. If the Event Chairman after consultation with the Event Safety Steward determines at his discretion that a vehicle cannot safely negotiate the course, it may be excluded.
VEHICLE CLASSIFICATION
All vehicle classifications as listed in Article 6 must be offered to entrants at all RallyCross events. However, organizers of Regional or Divisional events may add or combine classes as they deem necessary to meet local demand. Event organizers realize that a dual‐scoring system must be used to score events both for local points and for divisional and national championships (when applicable).
All items that are not specifically allowed or referred to as unrestricted must be of manufacturer’s specification.
Rally Stock Category
Stock Rear Wheel Drive (SR) Stock Front Wheel Drive (SF) Stock All Wheel Drive (SA)
Preparation allowances:
1. All Cars must be equipped as from the manufacturer, with only factory installed and port‐installed option packages. Options that were only part of a package must be present with the entire package. Complete option packages may be installed after purchase of the vehicle.
2. Tires must be DOT approved. Tires marked “For competition only”, “Not for street use” or similar, are not allowed. No part of the tire may be modified or altered from its original form, either through addition or subtraction, other than normal wear. Tires must be the original size plus/minus 20mm cross section and 5% aspect ratio. No studded tires are permitted unless ice or snow is present. Studded
A.
B. C.
tires may not be homemade using bolts or screws. Only street‐legal studs are allowed. Tires may not interfere with any parts of the car (fenders, fender liners, suspension, etc).
3. Any air filter may be used, but it must fit in the stock location. 4. The additions of protective equipment are allowed with the following
exceptions:
a. The modifications must only provide protection to the car and/or occupants and provide no performance advantage.
b. Mud flaps may only be made of urethane and other flexible plastic derivatives (i.e. no carbon‐Kevlar)
c. Skidplates protecting suspension and drivetrain components may only be made out of metal, composite materials or plastic derivatives.
d. Driver restraints and roll cage may be added. e. Additional or replacement hood and trunk latches are permitted.
All latch systems must be secure.
5. Dress‐up and convenience items which do not give a performance advantage, reduce the weight of the car, or weigh less than the replaced standard part they are replacing are allowed (i.e. shift knobs, pedal covers).
6. ABS and/or traction control systems may be electronically/electrically disabled but not removed.
7. Vehicle lights may be replaced with alternate bulbs and housing. Auxiliary lights may be added. The total number of lights shall not be less than standard.
8. Any brake pads may be used.
9. Fuel may be any type of unleaded, E85, or diesel fuel commonly available at the pump. Alternative fuels must be pre‐approved by the event RallyCross Safety Steward prior to the event. No other alcohol fuels or nitrous oxide are allowed.
10. Any clutch disc or pressure plate may be used provided it fits all the other unmodified, stock components.
11. Exhaust systems from the catalytic converter back may be removed or replaced with the following requirements:
a. The exhaust must exit to the rear of the driver.
b. The exhaust must comply with local noise restrictions
12. Any type wheel may be used provided it complies with the following: Wheels must be of the same diameter and width as the OEM wheel. Wheel offset (backspace) must be within 0.375"(9.5mm) of original equipment wheel offset.
13. Shocks/dampers may be replaced with OEM or aftermarket replacement units intended for the specific year make and model used. The stock spring must be used as it was on the OEM unit. The spring perch must be factory welded to the damper or use the exact attachment method and position as OEM. Adjustable dampers are only allowed if the OEM unit was adjustable and must retain the same number of adjustments or fewer as OEM. Remote reservoir shocks are only allowed if they are exact OEM units.
14. The front sway bar may be added, replaced or removed. A replacement front sway bar may serve no other purpose than originally intended by the vehicle manufacturer. In the case where the front sway bar is also a suspension locating link, stock geometry and methods of attachment must be maintained.
15. Any wheel alignment settings may be used provided the settings can be accomplished within the unmodified adjustment range as delivered from the factory. Any alignment techniques allowed by the factory service manual from the vehicle manufacturer may also be used.
16. Aftermarket replacement batteries are allowed provided they are the same type, group size and location as originally equipped.
17. Spare tires, tools, jacks, and any related covers may be removed.

 

[Pete from Houston]

The rear seat back and bottom cushion aren't very heavy, but removing them makes for a cleaner rollcage install. Look for a Kirk or Autopower rollbar on the ModernPerformance.com site as a good starting point for a full cage. A guy near me has a '02 ACR Neon that is strictly a track car and that's what he started with. His car has a bare floor; no carpet.

IIRC, the 4 door is a bit lighter than the 2 door cars. Beware of short throw shifters...just shortening the lever doesn't really help. Look for the short-throw mod on the lever on top of the trans itself. The shifter from a SRT4 Neon has a bit shorter throw but needs some slight mods to the base to fit it in.

 

[TURTLE]

Well I found out a little bit about what needs to stay in the vehicle if I want to stay in the stock class...
Anyway I shot a couple photos of the car and where it sits now.

Started ripping things out. like the head liner and carpet.

I also found a couple other things that need to be replaced, like both the head lamps.
I cant do a lot more with it, til I pull it into a garage...

 

[Pete from Houston]

look for Diamond Clear headlights on Modern performance...

BTW, it's a SOHC (no hood bulge) ;-)

 

[TURTLE]

look for Diamond Clear headlights on Modern performance...

BTW, it's a SOHC (no hood bulge) ;-)

Yeah I knew the DOHC had the hood bulge I popped the hood too just to look at the head to make sure.
I saw modern performance had them, my mechanic can get me parts for cost, so Im going to see if he can get them and go from there."thumbsup"

 

[jason]

Nice, it's a good color!

So what'd you find out that you need to leave?

 

[92PathSE]

yep, it's about torque, and Hondas aren't known for that. :mrgreen:

lol true

In my region, there was this woman in a mid 90s 2-door Civic that OWNED everybody in her class each month. It was hillarious. Nobody could hang. Some guy showed up in a F430 and got his doors blown off, although they weren't in the same class.

I totally forgot about the Neons. There were a few of them that did pretty well. So anyway, good luck with it man. "thumbsup"

They wouldn't let me run my 92...something about it not having swaybars.

 

[TURTLE]

Nice, it's a good color!

So what'd you find out that you need to leave?

The seats.:mrgreen:
Because of the cage, Im pretty sure I can get away without having the head liner and carpet, plus it was all stained and nasty. It was going regardless.
The rules are kind of funny they say you can add all this stuff but don't say anything about keeping the head liner. The rules have a few parts that are pretty contradictory, they say that you can put whatever safety equipment in you want (including a cage) but want it to have all this stock stuff as well. But if I do the cage none of the stock plastic and liners will fit.
Even if they made me have it, I don't think there would be anyway to put it back in, unless it was in little pieces taped to the roof.:mrgreen:
Another thing is keeping the stock plastic door parts, with the cage design I will either have to ditch them or make some nasty looking cuts into them.
I think I have a way to keep the rear seat in... bailing wire and zip ties.
Even if I fall out of spec. for the stock class there are two other classes I can be in, and if the cage means I have to move up to the next class, well then my engine will move up as well."thumbsup"
Its part of the plan anyway to work my way up too the M2 class then stage.
Just won't be quite as fun putting around in 130hp while veryone else has 200+hp.
Its still going to be a blast though.

What I really need to do is contact the safety steward for my area, that was highly suggested.

 

[TURTLE]

They wouldn't let me run my 92...something about it not having swaybars.

The front sway bar is now optional in all classes from what I understand.
At least through SCCA rules I know NASA rules are a lot more strict.

 

[Almighty Malach]

Looks like it needs more cow bell.

 

[Pete from Houston]

As far as the headliner goes, I'd want to remove anything that could be flammable. Speaking of safety, I think you might have to install some kind of solid barrier between the cabin and trunk, especially if you put the battery in the back.

The SOHC is a great motor and cheaper to upgrade (only 1 cam to buy!).

 

[slobin3d]

my wife has a 98 sport that had the foggy headlights, picked up the 3m lens restore kit 18 from wally world, works great"thumbsup"

 

[Pete from Houston]

Another thing is keeping the stock plastic door parts, with the cage design I will either have to ditch them or make some nasty looking cuts into them.

This was the first link I found when I Googled "SCCA Neon roll cage". This car still has it's door panels, but that may be because it has a race seat mounted to the cage, not the floor. They could have moved the seat towards the middle by an inch or two for clearance. Looking at the rest of the site, this would be a REALLY pricey cage to replicate.


http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/Neon.html

Check out these strut tower braces:

Here's a link to Autopower cages:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanceparts/Dodge/Neon/Suspension/Roll_Cages

 

[pigeonfarmboy]

Turtle I blame you for my recent revival of rally obsession! You bastard! Must resist the urges!

 

[TURTLE]

Turtle I blame you for my recent revival of rally obsession! You bastard! Must resist the urges!

My bad!:mrgreen:
But its so fun.
Right now the timing belt, water pump, all belts, hoses, thermostat and fluids are getting replaced.
Apparently the engine was throwing 20 or so codes, so that is still getting worked out.
Oh the clutch cable needed to be replaced and the fuel line had a leak, and it had a pretty good oil leak.
All of that has been fixed.

She really needs struts in all four corners, the rears are totally blow. Im just waiting to make sure the funds are available.

Should also have 4 Hella 500FF on the front in the next couple days.

Alot done and even more to still do."thumbsup"

 

[Pete from Houston]

I went with KYB GR2 struts and kept the stock springs. Neons don't have much suspension travel, so lowering a rally car will hurt you.

Are you staying stock in the motor or improving the cam?

 

[STANG KILLA SS]

well the tires look good still!

cant wait to see this thing race ready and some action of it.