Club 5 Racing Servo Relocation mount

[JMHZ2401]

Here is a video I done on the club 5 Racing servo relocation mount and husky links.

Club5 servo relocation mount

 

[ferp420]

ill never understand why they put the servo is in the middle you need the steering link to be as long as posable to actualy help with the geomitry this looks like it just makes it worse
ive never tryed it though so i cant realy say it just seems backwards to me

 

[soze]

ill never understand why they put the servo is in the middle you need the steering link to be as long as posable to actualy help with the geomitry this looks like it just makes it worse
ive never tryed it though so i cant realy say it just seems backwards to me

The servo link length actually doesn't change. I think he changed the links because those husky links are much nicer, but they should be the same length as stock.

The relocation correctly aligns the steering link parallel with the axle instead of sticking way out in front like it does stock. This also helps get rid of bumpsteer.

 

[ferp420]

The servo link length actually doesn't change. I think he changed the links because those husky links are much nicer, but they should be the same length as stock.

The relocation correctly aligns the steering link parallel with the axle instead of sticking way out in front like it does stock. This also helps get rid of bumpsteer.

in my opinion the stock link is to short to start with i think moving the servo forward is a much better solution still dosent fix the langth issue

but i font see how the servo mountibg point moves and the link stays the same

 

[soze]

in my opinion the stock link is to short to start with i think moving the servo forward is a much better solution still dosent fix the langth issue

but i font see how the servo mountibg point moves and the link stays the same

Currently the links are like this (looking from the top front -->): |\
This mount makes it so that the links are like this : ||

If you moved the servo forward even more than the stock location, you're going to end up with a steering link that looks like this: |--

Here is club5 video showing the difference between stock and this mount.

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[crick0234]

i had this installed but ended up uninstalling it. ran into some issues:

1) i got a holmes hobbies 21T motor, it's a tad longer than stock just a smidge, and the wiring heavily got in the way. i bent some things around to get it to work but my aftermarket servo still bumps into it and the ground wire.
2) i got some major tire rub with the husky link on my aftermarket tires (i had no tire rub with stock, plenty of space). I could get more clearance shoving in a buncha washers buuuuut i wanted to keep use of the stock plastic hubcaps lol i ended up moving the tierod to the bottom and leaving hte servo arm on the top fo the hub mount thingie.
3) i couldnt mount my bodyyyyy i already had magnets installed and the body was pushed slightly back to accomodate my winch. The hardware used to keep the grill inplace got in the way with the servo that i couldnt get the body to sit flush.

i did noticed reduced body roll but at that point, i decided just to go back to stock. will probably save the relocation stuff for a future build.

Anyone installing the husky links, did u notice tire rub?

 

[soze]

i had this installed but ended up uninstalling it. ran into some issues:

2) i got some major tire rub with the husky link on my aftermarket tires (i had no tire rub with stock, plenty of space). I could get more clearance shoving in a buncha washers buuuuut i wanted to keep use of the stock plastic hubcaps lol i ended up moving the tierod to the bottom and leaving hte servo arm on the top fo the hub mount thingie.


Anyone installing the husky links, did u notice tire rub?

I think you did what I would've done. Move the tie-rod to the bottom and steering link on top. That also corrects the angle of the steering link anyway.

That's one of the first things I did when I got the Gen8. Some people were getting tire rub even with the stock links on stock setup so....

 

[crick0234]

I think you did what I would've done. Move the tie-rod to the bottom and steering link on top. That also corrects the angle of the steering link anyway.

That's one of the first things I did when I got the Gen8. Some people were getting tire rub even with the stock links on stock setup so....

yeah stock setup i had tire rub right out of the box:

i put a very small washer in there and it was enough to alleviate tire rub. wasnt till new beadlock rims & tires that tire rub went away:

but once i install the husky with how club5 shows, i get that tire rub again they are nice and heavy links tho.

 

[ferp420]

Currently the links are like this (looking from the top front -->): |\
This mount makes it so that the links are like this : ||

If you moved the servo forward even more than the stock location, you're going to end up with a steering link that looks like this: |--

Here is club5 video showing the difference between stock and this mount.

i think that body role is from flimsy mounts once those were fixed mine dident do that

the husky links says the steering link is 10mm shorter than stock

when i moved my servo i was able to use a longer rod end making it about 5mm longer making for even less bump steer

 

[crick0234]

i think that body role is from flimsy mounts once those were fixed mine dident do that

which mounts were you using? the servo mount? i noticed a variety of alum upgrades ranging from shock towers to caster mounts.

 

[soze]

i think that body role is from flimsy mounts once those were fixed mine dident do that

the husky links says the steering link is 10mm shorter than stock

when i moved my servo i was able to use a longer rod end making it about 5mm longer making for even less bump steer

It's not from the mounts. It's the geometry. I spent a lot of time looking at it when I first got it. Get your Gen8 and turn it upside down and tilt one side of the axle at a time. You'll see.

HumboldtEF was able to minimize his by essentially doing what the Club5 is doing. He created his own custom mount to move the steering link so that it's parallel with the tie-rod.

 

[ferp420]

It's not from the mounts. It's the geometry. I spent a lot of time looking at it when I first got it. Get your Gen8 and turn it upside down and tilt one side of the axle at a time. You'll see.

HumboldtEF was able to minimize his by essentially doing what the Club5 is doing. He created his own custom mount to move the steering link so that it's parallel with the tie-rod.

ssd link mounts i braced my lower panhard link mount to the pumpkins upper link mount and that stoped then made a new bracked that made everything longer and parallel to each other with less axle swing and better bump steer
the brace stoped the body role when turning

 

[crick0234]

i braced my lower panhard link mount to the pumpkins upper link mount and that stoped then made a new bracked that made everything longer and parallel to each other with less axle swing and better bump steer
the brace stoped the body role when turning

that is really nice! haha i think i've seen similiar braces on actual trucks. gonna try this when i get home. thanks ferp!

 

[JMHZ2401]

So a few things. I had rubbing on the husky links on stock tires. I got a 8mm brass hex to get just a little more clearance, and slightly shaves the end link a little. The first testing with the relocation saw no increase in steering. I also saw no lack of body roll. I have found the body roll to one side is from the steering pulling up on the one side making the other side go down. With a GT3c I have set my end points to stop this, but then get less steering. I also found with the link on the stock plastic portal knuckle it was flexing the plastic, which means in a short time it would likely break. Again setting end points reduced this, but also reduced steering. I have upgraded to Hot Racing brass knuckles, (new video up on that install) this stopped that flex.

On my current setup I can turn right in 39 1/2 inches, left around 43 inches. I am still doing testing with the club 5 mount and I am not sold that it is worth it, but also not sold it is not. Updates to come.

 

[JMHZ2401]

Here is a update video on the servo mount.

Club 5 Servo mount update

 

[crick0234]

Here is a update video on the servo mount.

Club 5 Servo mount update

once i had my endpoints dialed in, i had very much reduced body roll. at that point, i didnt see th eneed for the club5 servo relocation, ontop of the other issues i had with it.

nice video! thank you for the update!

 

[JMHZ2401]

once i had my endpoints dialed in, i had very much reduced body roll. at that point, i didnt see th eneed for the club5 servo relocation, ontop of the other issues i had with it.

nice video! thank you for the update!

I agree you can dial in the end points to get rid of the body roll. 1 negative to that is it hurts the steering angle. I can deal with the body roll personally as I like the better steering angle.

Thank you

 

[kincer]

I just installed mine tonight, so far very happy with it other than the servo wire hitting the body. Got very good steering angles and it doesn't make the body roll anymore. I used an old Vattera Ascender link I had laying around and moved the tie rod to the bottom. After looking at my pics I may either put an angled rod end on the steering link or just go with a longer link and go to the top of the spindle, however it works pretty decent now.

 

[kincer]

Update, changed my upper link to the top of the spindle, works and looks much better.

 

[JMHZ2401]

Update, changed my upper link to the top of the spindle, works and looks much better.

Be careful of stress on the plastic portal housing/knuckle with the link at the top. I was seeing it flex and got brass knuckles because of it.