Col_Sanders Comp Builds of 2025

[Col_Sanders]

The CP43s are made for Axial size rod ends instead of the standard Traxxas size. I was planning on using a washer to take up the space since Axial's rod ends are so expensive but thats crap. Just found out Dlux sells them for .50/ea so guess ill wait for usps to take them on a US tour before they get here.

 

[OSRC]

This year i got a carbon fiber Jeep body and extended the wheelbase about 1/2".

Carbon Jeep body? That sounds very interesting, got any more info on that?

 

[Col_Sanders]

It's a Team Carbon body i bought from Exo.

Class 1 Jeep CJ

Exo has partnered up with Team Carbon to offer their Class 1 Jeep CJ body!! -Featuring a Flat Grill. No worries trying to fill gaps for SORRCA Rules in order to set up a bumper. -Handmade real Carbon Fiber body in .060” thickness meets SORRCA requirements for hardbody points -Aproximately 158g...

exo.us.com

As far as build quality goes, emphasis was obviously placed on weight. Ive seen some other carbon fiber bodies that were more robust. The bed in particular is very thin.

Tnt custom works sells some made by mlc fiberglassing that look really nice but they are more c2/c3 style.

 

[xaviere919]

Your tweaks to the VRD Carbon look solid. How’s the steering feel with that BMF1095L? I’ve heard good things about the stubby kit, does it live up to the hype? Nice chassis swap too.

 

[Col_Sanders]

Your tweaks to the VRD Carbon look solid. How’s the steering feel with that BMF1095L? I’ve heard good things about the stubby kit, does it live up to the hype? Nice chassis swap too.

I dont know if it was worth it. Definitely dropped some sprung weight, but I really need to do some tuning to get it where I would be happy. Currently it has the heavy brass up front and no weight in the rear. The truck does bad going downhill and sidehill is not as good as I'd like. Might try the low profile brass up front or I could just add brass rings in the rear wheels. I've got a different set of shocks coming tomorrow.

I like the servo a lot. I do not have much time on it though so I cant really comment on reliability. It has lasted longer than one of my RS700V2s and one Holmes 650LP so there is that. I have a thread on it with a little more info.

 

[Col_Sanders]

Pivot balls and esc came in so I have a little progress update.




Rear shocks are too stiff so I need to swap out to softer springs. The front is as low as I can get it. Still need to buy or some body mounts and get transmission and electronics mounted.

 

[Col_Sanders]

Original plan was to run a 1950s Chevy body but it's a bit long unless i hack about an inch and a half off the back. This chassis is short. Might just use that next on my Exo.



I also bought a plague body from reefs. Very nice looking body but it's not quite right for this build with the skid so far forward.



Then I remembered... the Boki Racing Losi Grappler. That'll do.



I'll put a crappy single color paint job on this and send another to Nomad Creations for a good paint job.

 

[89Industries]

Too bad you already got your pivot balls from Dlux as they also sell custom made versions of the Losi mini-t springs in stock plus some additional rates.

And they are all black so they won't clash with your purple shocks.

I'm guessing I'm telling you something your already know though....

 

[Col_Sanders]

Ive got a few different sets of Dlux shocks and springs sitting around. I swapped the rears to softs already. Seems a better fit for the weight of this thing. I might switch over to Priceys shocks eventually. They do great on my Exo C2. I have some here for my C1 but I'd need to hack more holes in the CF bed for the shock towers and I have not been in a hurry to do that.

Along with the Plague body, I ordered a set of Reef's shocks. They are incredibly smooth and feel very good quality. I'm thinking they might end up on my Optic and I'll move the upgraded S8Es over to my Phoenix or Carbon.

 

[Col_Sanders]

More progress. Got the transmission mounted and all my driveshafts cut to length. Working with a guy on facebook who's printing flat sliders and a custom winch mount for the 3 Brothers Atlas. It will sit on the skid right by the transmission.



Current weight with all electronics mocked up and a body is 4.5lbs.

 

[Chingon]

I'm digging following along with the build. How long are the carbon side plates of the chassis itself?

I am curious why you aren't triangulating the rear links more at the chassis side? I have had good luck with the SSD M4 axial width rod ends on my builds. The are basically a clone of the Traxxas M4 ends with a wider ball.

 

[Col_Sanders]

IIRC, the chassis is right at 14" long? I'll try to remember to measure again when I get home.

As for triangulation, the uppers are outside the chassis. I could space them out a bit more. The lowers don't mount to the skid like a normal build. It's a weird setup with spacers. It allows you to build it with different wheelbase using the same links, which is kinda pointless imo. I could possibly do a different combination of spacers to get them centered more. The axle doesn't move side to side very much as is though.

 

[Col_Sanders]

@Chingon the chassis is right at 13 3/8" long. Our rules say chassis has to be 1" longer than wheelbase so it may be out of spec at the moment. Ive seen some mention that bumpers can count in that measurement. If that's the case, it's good. If not, I'll extend the rear uppers a bit or push them back a hole and I should be able to get it in spec.

 

[Chingon]

@Chingon the chassis is right at 13 3/8" long. Our rules say chassis has to be 1" longer than wheelbase so it may be out of spec at the moment. Ive seen some mention that bumpers can count in that measurement. If that's the case, it's good. If not, I'll extend the rear uppers a bit or push them back a hole and I should be able to get it in spec.

Thanks, I was curious since our local "trail class" requires the chassis to be as long as the wheelbase (without bumpers/extensions) and that one looked pretty close.

 

[Col_Sanders]

They should have just made this 14" long. It's easy to cut off excess length if needed.

And regarding rules, i think if a certain length is required, rails should not be the measurement point. It should be bumper to bumper. If your chassis is 13" long and bumpers stick out an inch on each end, the overall length is still the same as of you had a set of 14" rails with bumpers that stick out 1/2".

 

[Col_Sanders]

Quick trim and paint in the 50's Chevy. I'll trim the body mount screws here shortly.

 

[Chingon]

Looks mean!

They should have just made this 14" long. It's easy to cut off excess length if needed.

And regarding rules, i think if a certain length is required, rails should not be the measurement point. It should be bumper to bumper. If your chassis is 13" long and bumpers stick out an inch on each end, the overall length is still the same as of you had a set of 14" rails with bumpers that stick out 1/2".

Our rules don't require bumpers, and I think the rationale for the way it is written was due to some folks trying to get away with running a Sporty chassis in the Trail Class with some creative "extensions".