soze
I wanna be Dave
Would this be helped by the upgrade shift fork parts?
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Would this be helped by the upgrade shift fork parts?
Barndog Racing
RCC Addict
I haven't seen those yet but maybe
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
New bearing only helped a little bit. I think CVA's will actually help quite a bit. Just a bit more support.
Now i am dealing with my front diff. I used the wrong gears. HPI 86917 instead of 103400. So i have to take apart the diff again until the new gears show up.
THEN again when i get the CVA's. Ugh.. that is getting old.
Im also going to shim where the front lower links attach to the skid. There is a lot of play there and it creates quite a bit of slop in the front axle. I'll post pictures later on.
Now i am dealing with my front diff. I used the wrong gears. HPI 86917 instead of 103400. So i have to take apart the diff again until the new gears show up.
THEN again when i get the CVA's. Ugh.. that is getting old.
Im also going to shim where the front lower links attach to the skid. There is a lot of play there and it creates quite a bit of slop in the front axle. I'll post pictures later on.
TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
Interior done! I put a lipo alarm in so the driver can keep an eye on the vitals 8)
The floorpan is painted black on the bottom side with Tamiya flat clear on the top side. This is the second lexan interior I've tried the flat clear on and it's been working great.
The floorpan is painted black on the bottom side with Tamiya flat clear on the top side. This is the second lexan interior I've tried the flat clear on and it's been working great.
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
Flat clear looks good.
I am about to take the car apart anyways, ecause I want to fit a driver. A bit f preliminary fitting has shown that -with a little cutting- the driver for the bruiser will actually fit.
On the stuck/binding shifter forks: Pay excessive, obsessive, precise attention to pages 18, 19, 20 and 21 of the manual when building. A mistake is easily made. I -for instance- fitted the shifter forks the wrong way around, and couldn’t get the gearbox to close without locking all the gears
I liberally slapped Tamiya ceramic grease on everything inside the gearboxes. That seems to do the trick. No binding, reasonably smoothshifting, with only sometimes the need to re-shift. It’s not as good as the Twin Hammers, though. The GOM isn’t too fond of shifting on the fly, especially shifting back at speed. I endo’d it quite a few times :lol:
The aluminium shift forks are the first thing I am going to upgrade. I have little trust in plastic shift forks. They haven’t broken yet, but still..
I am about to take the car apart anyways, ecause I want to fit a driver. A bit f preliminary fitting has shown that -with a little cutting- the driver for the bruiser will actually fit.
On the stuck/binding shifter forks: Pay excessive, obsessive, precise attention to pages 18, 19, 20 and 21 of the manual when building. A mistake is easily made. I -for instance- fitted the shifter forks the wrong way around, and couldn’t get the gearbox to close without locking all the gears
I liberally slapped Tamiya ceramic grease on everything inside the gearboxes. That seems to do the trick. No binding, reasonably smoothshifting, with only sometimes the need to re-shift. It’s not as good as the Twin Hammers, though. The GOM isn’t too fond of shifting on the fly, especially shifting back at speed. I endo’d it quite a few times :lol:
The aluminium shift forks are the first thing I am going to upgrade. I have little trust in plastic shift forks. They haven’t broken yet, but still..
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Barndog Racing
RCC Addict
My driver one eye Willy
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
Hah.
WW fits almost anywhere.
By the by, for those wanting to open-up the front diff: DustinF noticed that only the hpi 103400 bevel gear set will fit correctly ( be it with some dremeling and grinding). It also needs shimming. I forgot to mention that. I used the shims from a Tamiya DT02 kit, they’re exactly right. For filling the diff with, say, 100000wt, it also needs 2 tiiiny o-rings around the outgoung shafts. There are recesses in the diff housing for that. Axial diffs/lockers usually have those little o-rings. All my Axial kits came with extra o-rings in all kinds of sizes. That’s where I swiped mine.
WW fits almost anywhere.
By the by, for those wanting to open-up the front diff: DustinF noticed that only the hpi 103400 bevel gear set will fit correctly ( be it with some dremeling and grinding). It also needs shimming. I forgot to mention that. I used the shims from a Tamiya DT02 kit, they’re exactly right. For filling the diff with, say, 100000wt, it also needs 2 tiiiny o-rings around the outgoung shafts. There are recesses in the diff housing for that. Axial diffs/lockers usually have those little o-rings. All my Axial kits came with extra o-rings in all kinds of sizes. That’s where I swiped mine.
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Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
A couple of pics to show the GOM’s current state, including home-made sway bars ( I’m kinda chuffed that the system I thought out for my Wraith, years ago, still works)
Lightbar is the Vaterra Slickrock Led lightbar and housing.
Axial radiator stuck to GOM fake one with shoe goo
Overview. And yup, copied paintscheme from Dustinf
Lightbar is the Vaterra Slickrock Led lightbar and housing.
Axial radiator stuck to GOM fake one with shoe goo
Overview. And yup, copied paintscheme from Dustinf
TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
^^^Looking good. What's the little pushbutton on the passenger side for?
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
Hahaa... that’s a secret!!
Nâh. It’s a button to externally switch the desert lights in the rear from just orange flashing, just red flashing, orange flashing with a half second break, and all lights flashing one at the time. I had no channel left to use a remote switch, so I used the switch that came with the Turnigy ‘smart’ light controller itself. ( Hobby King).
It’s about to get the cover of a fuel nozzle-thing-whatsitcalled, to camouflage it.
Nâh. It’s a button to externally switch the desert lights in the rear from just orange flashing, just red flashing, orange flashing with a half second break, and all lights flashing one at the time. I had no channel left to use a remote switch, so I used the switch that came with the Turnigy ‘smart’ light controller itself. ( Hobby King).
It’s about to get the cover of a fuel nozzle-thing-whatsitcalled, to camouflage it.
A couple of pics to show the GOM’s current state, including home-made sway bars ( I’m kinda chuffed that the system I thought out for my Wraith, years ago, still works)
Lightbar is the Vaterra Slickrock Led lightbar and housing.
Axial radiator stuck to GOM fake one with shoe goo
Overview. And yup, copied paintscheme from Dustinf
This was freaky... man, you nailed the paint. Same angles and everything.
Nice work. It's a flashy looking pant scheme.
Mine has gotten all scratched up... so seeing yours as a new shinier version of mine has me jealous haha
I had a similar sponser sticker layout in mind. But havnt gotten around to it yet.
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That looks great! "thumbsup"
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
@DustinF
Well, Yours looked like perfection to me, so the choice was easy. I only deviated with the interior. I went for gun metal there. There’s quite a bit of scratching going-on ùnder the panels, though. I couldn’t wait to run it after building, so I ran it for a few packs without any panels.
By now it’s running a 17t double Orion v-brush, and I also found a HW 1060 in a drawer. It’s tiny. Much better than the clunky big HPI ESC. It’s pretty peppy now, still no speed-demon, but fast enough to have some fun on the trails.
Well, Yours looked like perfection to me, so the choice was easy. I only deviated with the interior. I went for gun metal there. There’s quite a bit of scratching going-on ùnder the panels, though. I couldn’t wait to run it after building, so I ran it for a few packs without any panels.
By now it’s running a 17t double Orion v-brush, and I also found a HW 1060 in a drawer. It’s tiny. Much better than the clunky big HPI ESC. It’s pretty peppy now, still no speed-demon, but fast enough to have some fun on the trails.
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I've finally machined a link for the cage. 104mm fits really well, but 104.5mm fits better. The spot is for a 1/4" size rod... or close enough not to matter. It matches the rear brace right below it.
This one is drilled and tapped on both sides and really helps the cage in rigidity.
I think I'm going to put it back on the lathe and give it a concave of some type.
Also, a Trail Finder 2 bent steering link would fit there... and probably look pretty cool.
I've also ordered a rear yeti bezel that I'm going to fit. And possibly the radiator... this will be the fourth one I've bought painted and mounted so I'm going to try something different first. Hobbywing fans and covers.
Once the new tires come in and I mount a spare, I'm going to focus on interior details.
This one is drilled and tapped on both sides and really helps the cage in rigidity.
I think I'm going to put it back on the lathe and give it a concave of some type.
Also, a Trail Finder 2 bent steering link would fit there... and probably look pretty cool.
I've also ordered a rear yeti bezel that I'm going to fit. And possibly the radiator... this will be the fourth one I've bought painted and mounted so I'm going to try something different first. Hobbywing fans and covers.
Once the new tires come in and I mount a spare, I'm going to focus on interior details.
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soze
I wanna be Dave
Good idea with the Yeti Radiator. Thankfully I have one from my Yeti! I never ended up putting it on. Will have to take a look when I get to that step.
TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
I bet you thought you were wasting your breath. Nope! :mrgreen: I ended up getting just the type of motor your suggested. And because nothing exceeds like excess, I went with 13 turns, which I may live to regret. :lmao:
Anyway, if you're reading this Jay-Em, I took a shot at timing the motor and I was hoping you could check my work based on the second picture. The notch in the can is zero degrees, so did I move the endbell in the correct direction to give it positive timing in the GOM? If so, it that a reasonable amount of timing? I just wanted to give it a little bit without going overboard, mostly just for the sake of tinkering.
Thanks again for all the info.
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
Nope, sorry,exactly the wrong way... The endbell should be rotated counter to the shaft rotation. Looking at Your 2nd pic, the notch in the endbell (where the brushes sit) should be to the right, not the left.
If You look at the shaft from the front at the end where the pinion goes, the shaft must rotate clockwise, consequently, the endbell/notch should be rotated COUNTER clockwise looking at the can from the front,pinion side, about 2mm Don't go beyond 3.5mm. For a start 1 to 2 mm is enough. Watch the temps. Burning finger = too much timing and too big pinion for -said- timing.
And 13turns? Ehh.. The car might get to be a tad..ehh "nervous" :lmao: Though the fact that it's double-wound, should make for a smooth mid-range. Start with the included 13tooth pinion, and -again- watch those temperatures! (cannot stress that enough)
If my explanation doesn't make sense to You ( not unheard of.. ), You could just align both can- and endbell notches. Just to be sure. That's 0 degree timing.
If You look at the shaft from the front at the end where the pinion goes, the shaft must rotate clockwise, consequently, the endbell/notch should be rotated COUNTER clockwise looking at the can from the front,pinion side, about 2mm Don't go beyond 3.5mm. For a start 1 to 2 mm is enough. Watch the temps. Burning finger = too much timing and too big pinion for -said- timing.
And 13turns? Ehh.. The car might get to be a tad..ehh "nervous" :lmao: Though the fact that it's double-wound, should make for a smooth mid-range. Start with the included 13tooth pinion, and -again- watch those temperatures! (cannot stress that enough)
If my explanation doesn't make sense to You ( not unheard of..
), You could just align both can- and endbell notches. Just to be sure. That's 0 degree timing.
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TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
Nope, sorry,exactly the wrong way... The endbell should be rotated counter to the shaft rotation. Looking at Your 2nd pic, the notch in the endbell (where the brushes sit) should be to the right, not the left.
If You look at the shaft from the front at the end where the pinion goes, the shaft must rotate clockwise, consequently, the endbell/notch should be rotated COUNTER clockwise looking at the can from the front,pinion side, about 2mm Don't go beyond 3.5mm. For a start 1 to 2 mm is enough. Watch the temps. Burning finger = too much timing and too big pinion for -said- timing.
And 13turns? Ehh.. The car might get to be a tad..ehh "nervous" :lmao: Though the fact that it's double-wound, should make for a smooth mid-range. Start with the included 13tooth pinion, and -again- watch those temperatures! (cannot stress that enough)
If my explanation doesn't make sense to You ( not unheard of..
I really thought I had it figured out. I should just stick with zero degrees anyway since I'll probably be stepping up the pinion. I have a creative (stupid) plan to help control temps but the parts are still on the slow boat from China.
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
Usually it's enough to just get one of those clip-on heat sinks for brushed 540-size motors. If You can afford it, with a fan. There's enough space under the bonnet. Or, if it's too high, just stick it through the bonnet. Might even look cool.
I use a cheapie from Carson/Dickie/Tamiya. Works fine ,and fits like a glove. The fact that the motor is at the front, open to the elements also helps tremendously.
I use a cheapie from Carson/Dickie/Tamiya. Works fine ,and fits like a glove. The fact that the motor is at the front, open to the elements also helps tremendously.
