• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Crawler King (mod) need help, motor stall, overheating?

As for endpoints being adjusted. Take your steering for instance if you are turning and your knuckle is against your axle, you dont want your servo to keep trying to turn past that. It builds up heat real quick and can strip or burn up a servo real quick.!!
On a good radio it has a spot were it has percentages. Usally 100 steps to the right and left.
Then you can just dial down or up were you want the servo to quit trying to push!
Or even add alittle more if needed. ( most radios go up to 120ish).
A dig servo usally barely moves. Had mine on about 25 one way 38 the other.
Hope that helps some."thumbsup"
They don't really have a dig set up for the CK.
As for a dig setup. I made on for my rig awhile back ago. Has a few videos in there.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197228&highlight=dig

Or you could go full custom and use a axial tranny and your CK axles.

Castle is the most widley used and well trusted BEC out there. I run them on all my rigs.
 
Last edited:
OH MAN, it's been since forever.......and though i curse work for the cause of that, it's also the source of what allows me to continue this addiction haha, i've also kind of gotten distracted with other projects, namely my AX-10 with a proline tuber body....=) been havin some fun with that, though i know that body does raise the COG some....still workin on it

anyway, im back guys, with a small update.

FIRST,

RottenBelly, sorry i didn't reply back to acknowledge your comment above about the radio + endpoints advice, sweet advice dude, thanks, will be checking out castle's BEC too ....and i loved your thread for that custom dig set up, you gave that link for....impressive to me, duno by what standards are out there, but that was awesome, im no where near that level of customization yet....heh

but yeah, i finally got around to bringing the CK to my (non-local) local hobby shop with the items i have below and am waiting to hear back once it's been installed....i brought it in since im a noob with soldering and got a consensus on the forums that i shouldnt start learning/practicing on an FX-R, heh though i have started to and it's been going ok actually, pretty good at tinning but still feel like im gettin cold solder joints but, im gettin there ...and i was just going to have them do the FX-R only so i can still have a chance to install the motor + gears myself, but i figured with as much time as i usually have and how long its taken i just lumped em all in there and was planning to just go over everthing once it's all complete...am planning to get a new trans/radio when i go pick it up as well....

Tekin FX-R
Holmes Hobbies TorqueMater Pro custom 40T
HPI Spur 96t
HPI Pinion 12t

Photo1892.jpg


More to come when it gets done! will def have some pics of it in action as well...."thumbsup"
 
Last edited:
i finally got around to bringing the CK to my (non-local) local hobby shop with the items i have below and am waiting to hear back once it's been installed.....and i was just going to have them do the FX-R only so i can still have a chance to install the motor + gears myself, but i figured with as much time as i usually have and how long its taken i just lumped em all in there

Cheater :)

Man I know what ya mean about work and no time. Almost glad that the summers coming to an end.
 
Lol. No problem. I am on another boat trip so it's hard for me to follow some postings.
You are gonna love that setup!!!
Be careful if you are gonna run 3s lipo. The stock dogbones/ axleshafts snap like butter with the newfound torque you are gonna have!!:twisted:

I ran that old dig for a long time and it always worked great. Miss that old rig.
I highly recommend the futaba 3 pm-x radios. I have 3 of them and a 4pk, great radios.
Let us know how it goes!!"thumbsup"
 

:roll: ahhhhhh i know i know.....the jedi's are going to feel this one.....lol i wont do it again i swear! haha but yeah...the times they are a changin....but am still lookin forward to the rest of the year tho, still more projects and more places to discover...those rocks won't crawl themselves!


Be careful if you are gonna run 3s lipo. The stock dogbones/ axleshafts snap like butter with the newfound torque you are gonna have!!:twisted:

I ran that old dig for a long time and it always worked great. Miss that old rig.

I highly recommend the futaba 3 pm-x radios. I have 3 of them and a 4pk, great radios.
Let us know how it goes!!"thumbsup"

What happened to yer old rig? And thanks for the reminder/recommendation, rb, maybe i'll start out with 2s lipo for starters, n work my way up, could even upgrade the shafts too...but yeah, am super stoked about it......and will probably go with a futaba 3 pm-x when i head back for pick it up...will keep ya'll posted "thumbsup"
 
What happened to yer old rig? And thanks for the reminder/recommendation, rb, maybe i'll start out with 2s lipo for starters, n work my way up, could even upgrade the shafts too...but yeah, am super stoked about it......and will probably go with a futaba 3 pm-x when i head back for pick it up...will keep ya'll posted "thumbsup"

I ended up selling it... and wished i didnt all the time.:cry:

As for axle shafts there is a good post here.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=239652

I will eventually get another wk and i am just gonna grind down 2 berg long axles to fit the stock cups.( pretty cheap in case i grind to much off.)
On page 4 in the above mentioned thread you can see how the bergs are thicker around the dogbone end.

Great thread on the 3 PM-X and how to program it."thumbsup"
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189912&highlight=Futaba+3PM-X
 
Finally! got the call and picked it up today! there was a cool small demo rock area right outside in the parking lot at the hobby shop where i immediately fired it up and it was AMAZING, but my phone died, haha and couldn't take any shots and i already knew that i would be running out of light so I headed back while i charged my phone in my car and headed for nearest rocky area to grab some initial shots....they did a pretty good job and im glad i brought it in....def worth it for the few bucks....here are the pics!

Photo1940.jpg


Photo1937.jpg



Photo1945.jpg


Photo1942.jpg




started messin around with the settings, here the drag brake is at 6...

Photo1951.jpg



and here it's at 10 with a little throttle trim, pretty solid, rock steady......awesome.....no way could it do this before with no roll, especially as heavy as it is with the tuner weights (2x4oz + 2 12oz.)

Photo1959.jpg




I am so so stoked and really digging this set up!!.....it's such an improvement, though i haven't really tested it, the FX-R i can tell already holds true to the feedback i've read about it, i've barely had a chance to play around with the settings, but immediately noticed the control is much more solid and precise given i don't even have a new radio system (they didn't carry the 3 pmx, will have to order it sometime )... but the drag brake was the first thing i played around with and am so glad it can bite and stand it's ground like a crawler should now......and HH torquemaster is def pulling the weight now, and the 'struggling' is almost near eliminated, but again, will have to wait until i really get a chance to test it out, the performance just 'feels' like it's at the next level now...

only thing though i did notice a slight scratching sound, which was the spur gear rubbing up against the inner wall of the gearbox cover, which if i still want to use, i'd have to trim/shave the inside a bit for clearance or just not use it at all, though i'd like to keep it...

they also couldn't install the 12t pinion bec it wouldn't mesh right, the teeth were too wide for the 96t spur, so im thinking maybe i can get a higher tooth pinion, like 13t? per uplate's previous post, which should work if it worked for him....

other than that, even though it's no comp crawler and still can't perform as well, it's definitely now a more than decent crawler, considering the ck isn't really a contender in league with those comp crawlers out there but now im confident it could hold it's own and keep up with my ax-10 and losiNC, will hopefully be able to take it out this weekend, (if not, next, as soon as my cowrc stuff comes since i wanted to do some maint on it and other rigs) for a full run to really test it out, and to grab some action pics while im out there...

Rotten! thanks for those links, that thread about the CVD's was crazy, heh, but still helpful to keep in mind, and i'll be running 2s lipos for the most part too....the berg axles sound like a great idea, i just don't have the means to custom make em so they fit....and though i don't have a WK, i'll still join/support the crew as a CK member :ror: i would be super bummed if i had to sell mine too......let me know if you ever start buildin another with the berg long axles

and the thread about the 3-pm x will deeefinitely come in handy ....any suggestions on where to order one from ?


anyway, gona try to keep the build going (funds/time permitting), keep practicing soldering, and THANKS RB AND ALL FOR ALL YOUR HELP! :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

will keep posting pics/updates when i can.....yeah, badass, yeah....."thumbsup"
 
Last edited:
LOL! Glad i could help.
Unless you are running in a bunch of gravel or mud you reallly dont need the gear cover. I never did run one.

I get lots of goodies from http://www.rpphobby.com/. Cory has always been top notch. Super fast shipping and always picks the phone up when you need to call with questions!!"thumbsup"

Something i did notice on your rig, The front axle clocking.
If you can shorten that upper link Y anyways and get you steering knuckles parallel to the ground you will pick up some more steering. I link the end of my steering knuckles actually pointed upwards a hair to help with turning.
It will also be easier on your servo."thumbsup"
Kinda like so.
DSCF8641.jpg
 
Something i did notice on your rig, The front axle clocking.
If you can shorten that upper link Y anyways and get you steering knuckles parallel to the ground you will pick up some more steering. I link the end of my steering knuckles actually pointed upwards a hair to help with turning.
It will also be easier on your servo."thumbsup"
Kinda like so.

aw, thanks for the tip! i'll see if maybe i can raise the y link to clock the axel a little higher.....was also thinking i could chop like a 1/4 inch from each Y arm, drill a small hole, install a threaded rod and tighten it maybe to shorten it...if i can't just raise it like in your pic....would i need to get clockable knuckles as well to get them to point slightly more upwards? so when it turns it's more perpendicular/parallel to the ground ?

I kind of what to get the wheelbase extended a little too, i know the strc aluminum links extend it a little more than the stock links but are there any out there that are longer that anyone sells ? or any high clearance links that would fit perhaps for fun ?



oh and i found the 3pmx at 159.99 at towerhobbies:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXRL8&P=FR

but there's a lot of stuff at rpp thats cool i haven't seen, might check em out

and i won't be running it through mud, maybe some gravel /dirt/dust could get on it which is why i was considering using it but my other rigs are fine w/o it so...cool. thanks again!
 
Last edited:
they also couldn't install the 12t pinion bec it wouldn't mesh right, the teeth were too wide for the 96t spur, so im thinking maybe i can get a higher tooth pinion, like 13t? per uplate's previous post, which should work if it worked for him....

Interesting I haven't tried a 12T pinion before. Had no I idea it wouldn't work. 13T is the lucky number then. That is, without shaving the tranny plate down a bit. Good to know "thumbsup".
Looks like yer rig is really starting to handle well. That pick on the rock at angle is great 8). The new motor and esc have changed things quite a bit eh. I'd say money well spent. Might also be time to get some dogbone backups? Real lame when you have to be done, because of axle shaft breakage.



oh and i found the 3pmx at 159.99 at towerhobbies:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXRL8&P=FR

Have ya looked at maybe getting a Futaba 4PK? It's a great radio (could be the last one you ever need ;-)). With four channels I run my winch and control rear and front steer independently. The radio does have a bit of a learning curve :shock:. But its probably one of the greatest investments I've made. Next to switching over to Lipo power.

-----FUTABA 4PK-----
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTHR6



I kind of what to get the wheelbase extended a little too, i know the strc aluminum links extend it a little more than the stock links but are there any out there that are longer that anyone sells ? or any high clearance links that would fit perhaps for fun ?

I've gotten tired of buying links. My next set will be made buy me. Doesnt take much work and you could make them to your specks. There is a great thread on RCC about crafting links. Can't seem to find it though :x. You need All Thread, Rod Ends and a tube to cut so the All Thread sits inside it. Wham'O instant links, cheep and easy. Do a search for the thread. Maybe you'll have better luck finding it then me ;-).
 
this thread is sweet, and i love the build"thumbsup"

Thanks K5! feels good to know that your work is liked by others, and yeah it's been a blast working on this thing (with the exception of bringing in to get the motor +esc installed ha)



and Thanks Uplate!

Interesting I haven't tried a 12T pinion before. Had no I idea it wouldn't work. 13T is the lucky number then. That is, without shaving the tranny plate down a bit. Good to know "thumbsup".
Looks like yer rig is really starting to handle well. That pick on the rock at angle is great 8). The new motor and esc have changed things quite a bit eh. I'd say money well spent. Might also be time to get some dogbone backups? Real lame when you have to be done, because of axle shaft breakage.

Yeah, it's starting to handle like a champ, and I was pretty impressed with that one angle too....thanks! Also going to try picking up the 13T pinion, and yes, it would be pretty lame if an axle shaft broke.....would a couple of these do the trick?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPZX4&P=OW


Have ya looked at maybe getting a Futaba 4PK? It's a great radio (could be the last one you ever need :wink:).

I've considered it, yes heh but that definitely would be something a little later down the line for me, (experience wise and money wise:wink:) keeping that link though, thanks!



I've gotten tired of buying links. My next set will be made buy me. Doesnt take much work and you could make them to your specks. There is a great thread on RCC about crafting links. Can't seem to find it though :x. You need All Thread, Rod Ends and a tube to cut so the All Thread sits inside it. Wham'O instant links, cheep and easy. Do a search for the thread. Maybe you'll have better luck finding it then me :wink:.

I haven't had a chance to search for that thread yet, but I think I remember coming across that too.....which you're right, would be a better idea, more fun too, i'll post if i find it....and do i have to find a tube out there that already has grooves inlaid for the all thread to get screwed in?





ALSO I was able to to head back out this weekend to test it, and overall it was a successful run, a couple things happened though, went out with a buddy who used my SCX10 and didn't realize that once out there, both had the same crystal which as soon as the other TX was turned on, the CK's TX/RX got screwed up, luckily i had a back up rig with me, and grabbed the crystal out of that and had to recalibrate the TX with the FX-R...

here are a few action pics

Photo2032.jpg


Photo2050.jpg


Photo2007.jpg


Photo2035.jpg


Photo2038.jpg



Photo2025.jpg


Photo2047.jpg


Photo2048.jpg


Photo2062.jpg


Photo2009.jpg


Photo2085.jpg


Photo2074.jpg


Photo2082.jpg


and more found here...

http://s876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/inebriatedmarmoset/Royal Palms Beach White Point 092610/



Something did trouble me though, bec it all worked fine for the entire day, except toward the end, throttle went dead, and LED's 1, 3, and 5 were flickering, which according to the manual, indicates that the voltage cutoff (VC) may be set above the batter pack voltage or that unit is in thermal shutdown.

At first I was using a 7.2v Ni-Mh and per the manual the VC i used was the 1st position, "None" for Ni-Mh batteries which worked fine then the battery died. So then i switched to a 2s 7.4v 35c LiPo and changed the VC to the 2nd position which is "6 Volts, 2 cell (2s) LiPo". After i switched, it actually ran fine for a few hours for the rest of the day but then the 1, 3 and 5 LEDs came on and throttle went dead (luckily by the time i was done). Turned it off/on and the lights immediately started flickering, steering is fine, no throttle. Not sure why it's doing this...

Today I checked it again, and same thing, the 7.2v Ni-Mh works just fine, but when I use that same LiPo battery, using the 2nd position like the manual says to use for lipos, the 1, 3 and 5 LED's immediately come on again and NO throttle. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT MAY BE GOING ON HERE?

Am I using the wrong LiPo, even though it worked the first time for several hours ? would using the HotWire let me use the lipo i have?

I've even recalibrated with the lipo in, but still get the lights, dead throttle. Manual also indicates that LED code as being the motor or connections to motor are bad or that the esc is not plugged into throttle channel on receiver or receiver plug cnctn is bad--not the case bc it works just fine with the Ni-Mh.

This is weird too, with that lipo, if the VC is set to 1st position, it works (not well, is very jittery when changing settings) but the manual DOES say it's important NOT to use the default setting for the VC which is "None".

Please help! This is the only thing that's really gotten under my skin, I'd really like to use Lipos for this rig as it's now just gotten so much better but still making me feel limited.....sorry for ranting, but THANKS IN ADVANCE!
 
Last edited:
Looks like it was a fine day for playing on the rocks 8).

I don't think you need a threaded tube. The ball ends should hold the sleeve on ok. Shoot probably All Thread would work just fine by itself.
How long are you thinking about making your links? Ya might want to start thinking about doing drive shaft extensions also.

Your esc problems might be caused from a lose wire or dirty connector on the lipo. Or it might be that the esc was just doing it's job. The esc should pulse or slow, and then stop working towards the end of the battery's charge. Check the voltage on your battery next time. I'd imagine the esc cut off is around 3.4v-3.0v per cell (6.8v-6.0v for a 2cell lipo). A cheep lipo tester is great to have around :). I stick mine in the battery tray of my transmitter.

----CHEEP BATTERY TESTER----
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXYN5&P=M
I got mine off ebay ;-).
 
Looks like it was a fine day for playing on the rocks 8).

I don't think you need a threaded tube. The ball ends should hold the sleeve on ok. Shoot probably All Thread would work just fine by itself.
How long are you thinking about making your links? Ya might want to start thinking about doing drive shaft extensions also.

Your esc problems might be caused from a lose wire or dirty connector on the lipo. Or it might be that the esc was just doing it's job. The esc should pulse or slow, and then stop working towards the end of the battery's charge. Check the voltage on your battery next time. I'd imagine the esc cut off is around 3.4v-3.0v per cell (6.8v-6.0v for a 2cell lipo). A cheep lipo tester is great to have around :). I stick mine in the battery tray of my transmitter.

----CHEEP BATTERY TESTER----
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXYN5&P=M
I got mine off ebay ;-).


Hey Uplate, sorry for the late reply... but thanks for the advice! ...and I was only thinking of making the links about 1/2 inch to an inch longer...how would i go about extending the drive shafts ?

And as far as the esc the lipo wires and connectors aren't that dirty or lose i don't think, checked them and they seemed fine to me, and last time when i had that problem using one, it didn't really pulse or slow at all, throttle just immediately died and the lights came on, and whenever i turned it back off/on, no throttle and the lights...still a little unsure....

do you think i may need to just pick up a different Lipo with ? if so, would you have any suggestions on any that would for sure work? like, i'd want a lipo that wouldn't be above the voltage cut off, right?

I also just picked up a voltage checker too! thanks for the tip!
 
Hey Uplate, sorry for the late reply... but thanks for the advice! ...and I was only thinking of making the links about 1/2 inch to an inch longer...how would i go about extending the drive shafts ?



do you think i may need to just pick up a different Lipo with ? if so, would you have any suggestions on any that would for sure work? like, i'd want a lipo that wouldn't be above the voltage cut off, right?

You can use Savage drive shafts. You need to save the King yolks as Savage shafts aren't a direct fit. Also if ya take and cut the male outty off :shock:, and glue it to a female. You can stick the mod female together with another female shaft. This makes for a really long extended drive shaft.

Mabye you just got a crap lipo? I use cheap eBay lipos. I'm going to try a brand called "Zippy" next. Whatever brand you use. Try to get a overkill C rating. Less stress and longer life for your lipo (less money spent in the long run). As I understand it C ratings go like this. 10C x 1000mah = 10amps / 20C x 1000mah = 20amps / 10C x 2000mah = 20amps / 20C x 2000mah = 40amps (If I have it wrong :roll:. Feel free to correct me on this guys "thumbsup".). The amps being how much power can be pulled out safely on demand.
 
You can use Savage drive shafts. You need to save the King yolks as Savage shafts aren't a direct fit. Also if ya take and cut the male outty off :shock:, and glue it to a female. You can stick the mod female together with another female shaft. This makes for a really long extended drive shaft.

Awesome! Thanks for those instructions, I'm so glad I have this thread to refer back to. I'm sure I'll be needing it when I eventually end up extending the links/driveshafts

Mabye you just got a crap lipo? I use cheap eBay lipos. I'm going to try a brand called "Zippy" next. Whatever brand you use. Try to get a overkill C rating. Less stress and longer life for your lipo (less money spent in the long run). As I understand it C ratings go like this. 10C x 1000mah = 10amps / 20C x 1000mah = 20amps / 10C x 2000mah = 20amps / 20C x 2000mah = 40amps (If I have it wrong :roll:. Feel free to correct me on this guys "thumbsup".). The amps being how much power can be pulled out safely on demand.

And possibly, though I use those Lipos on other rigs and they seem to perform fine. But I suppose I can try picking up a different brand with different C ratings, the ones I have are the highest that hobby people had, 5000mah....and in the meantime since I know the Hi-Energy 4500mah NiMh's work, I can use those, though, Lipo's would be ideal....thanks for that breakdown, though!

I did go back out this weekend again, didn't get a chance to test the lipos out though, really wish i had brought those along to test them...it performed just as awesome, had a really great run, with a New bright Rubicon Body that I had drilled holes into for the rear body posts and then had to pop out the headlight caps cause i couldn't figure out a way for the front body posts to "mount" to the body other than having the body clips thread through the small inserts where the caps snap in, then twist the body clip so the loop locks in and then clips to the body mount, also had to cut away a bit under the bottom to make it fit, i did all this a while back when i first got the CK and found it again in my garage and tried it out with all the upgrades...it runs awesome! a tiny bit heavier but def like the hard body and that it's a rubicon! might still work on it more to make it look more scale, like remove the all the "new bright" stuff, maybe take the stickers/decals off and give it a new paint job, though i don't know thing about painting, never tried haha, but yeah, roof rack for sure, maybe some canvas on there somewhere, would also be awesome to get a custom metal roll cage instead of the plastic, but i've never welded anything either :roll: heh,

Photo2127.jpg


Photo2159.jpg



Photo2198.jpg


Photo2164.jpg


Photo2187.jpg

Also added a proline cooler in the back taken from my SCX10 that holds all the body clips, and extra dealies i keep on hand should i need it, I just have velcro on the bottom so it can be used from rig to rig...not completely scale, cause i do like the look of the bungee chords on my AX10, here it was just sort of last minute...
Photo2162.jpg

Photo2163.jpg


Photo2205.jpg


Photo2193.jpg


A few flex shots..

Photo2138.jpg


Photo2185.jpg


Photo2183.jpg


Photo2182.jpg



However! tragedy struck, literally, the steering link struck a rock on a descend, and broke off, after many a beatings in the past, it finally gave way...kept the remains in the cooler

Photo2210.jpg

Photo2213.jpg



So i'll have to replace that, it was the steering link that came with the STRC aluminum steering linkage upgrade kit, which i'll need to figure out how to get that replaced, if it or an equivalent is online anywhere, or if i could try making it myself....perhaps ?

all in all, it still was an awesome run (the rest here http://s876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/inebriatedmarmoset/Royal Palms Beach White Point 100310/)

just a bummer it had to get cut short, but still got a several hours on one Hi-Energy NiMh...but of course a lipo would be better ;-)
 
Last edited:
And possibly, though I use those Lipos on other rigs and they seem to perform fine. But I suppose I can try picking up a different brand with different C ratings, the ones I have are the highest that hobby people had, 5000mah....and in the meantime since I know the Hi-Energy 4500mah NiMh's work, I can use those, though, Lipo's would be ideal....thanks for that breakdown, though!

Ya know this sounds like a settings thing in the esc :x. If the lipo battery's work in other applications. Then the only difference is your new esc. You could post up in the electronics section. Someone there might have a better working knowledge, of your particular brand esc (Tekin FxR). Or taking it back to your local hobby shop also might help you. They are probably pretty familiar with the Tekin brand. Should be a simple fix.
 
READ THIS use Motor SPRAY

how long have you been running that motor bc it may just need new brushes and a good dosage of motor spray alot of people get these kits and the manual dosent even state that the motor after even only 15 runs on pavement may need cleaning, also be sure to remove motor from model when cleaning to prevent it from damaging kit and electrics. trust me motor spray is cheaper than anything else out there.
 
thanks uplate, yeah i might consider getting hotwire so i can edit the settings even more...i also posted in electronics (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=274317) and yeah i forgot to leave out that i thought the back up battery from before was charged, since it could just have been the lipo because tested it last week (sorry for late reply, work's been insane and also had to get 4 wisdom teeth removed this past week, ouch :shock:) with a freshly charged lipo and it worked! not the first time though, i still got the same 1,3 5 flashing LEDS , but it worked after power cycling it and recalibrating....i'd like to try some other brands to compare...

by the way, if anyone's down in huntington beach where the 605 hits the 405 OC/RC Raceway has a fun indoor rock wall in the back behind the track that they built out earlier this year, which is where tested it...

Photo2254.jpg



I was also able to use the steering links that came with the servo over axle mod from ckcrawlers...doesn't match the strc links in the back anymore, but at least i can steer now ;-)

Photo2332.jpg


more pics from OCRC here... that place is great, there's a bridge, teeter, string obstacle set up and more...

http://s876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/inebriatedmarmoset/OCRC Raceway 100910/


notcrawlin!

the motor i have is a new holmes hobbies custom wound torqumaster so it's only been run a few times....though i do have some motor cleaner (cowrc's moo-tor cleaner, the best i've ever used and highly recommend it) thanks for tip though!


Also!

Upgrades!

I picked these up from themerc64 who was selling WK/CK parts here in the for sale section got a sweet deal too...can't wait to put these on...

Photo2250.jpg


1) Pair of RCP Crawlers CVD axles.


1) Pair of RC4WD stainless steel solid axle shafts with e-clips.

1) Pair of built differentials with STRC lockers and heavy duty HPI Nitro-MT ring and pinion gears. Includes new ball bearings.

1) Crawler-X prototype 3 position DIG unit. Though i'll need to fabricate a servo mount and linkage.

1) New Set of (4) DNA 2.2 Thrasher beadlocks 1” wide, raw aluminum finish, vented and WK/Berg offset. Comes with a new set of (4) HPI Rock Grabber tires. Fronts are weighted and stock foam in all four.


Plus he threw in a skid plate which was installed/used when i was at OCRC...and the steering link at the bottom was the original strc that i removed and the battery tester i picked up too, the tires/wheels i might use for another rig or switch out with the Hot Bodies's Rovers from time to time, but the HB's are just awesome so i might just keep those, also I did purchase from RCP some new clockable C axles and high clearance steering knuckles! plus some extra set screws

but the rest were the parts I bought from themerc64, all waiting to be installed :mrgreen:

thanks again Uplate! for the advice! im glad it seems to be workin now, and if anything, i'll post again in the electronics section...i'll post more when i can for those upgrades..."thumbsup"
 
Last edited:
yah

just a thought, some people dont realize. i like your rig though. i have been considering either the team integy crawler coversion with strc chassis, do i have to mount steering servo to the axel with these parts, i basically have a stock wk.
 
Back
Top