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Createx paint and ruining bodies - Tips on how now to do what I just did????

GrantYoung

Newbie
Joined
Mar 15, 2015
Messages
23
Location
Hattiesburg
A friend of mine and I just attempted to spray my C10 shell and completely destroyed it. We used a detail fun, 35psi, thinned slightly with water, and sprayed LIGHT coats. Prior to taping I wiped the shell down with alcohol. After taping, before spraying, we used a wax and grease remover. I have no idea how we could have prepped any better. Paint didn't stick, it just slid off the sides and pooled up at the body lines. I'm going to use this shell as a test she'll I guess, I don't know. I just wasted 50 bucks though.
 
A friend of mine and I just attempted to spray my C10 shell and completely destroyed it. We used a detail fun, 35psi, thinned slightly with water, and sprayed LIGHT coats. Prior to taping I wiped the shell down with alcohol. After taping, before spraying, we used a wax and grease remover. I have no idea how we could have prepped any better. Paint didn't stick, it just slid off the sides and pooled up at the body lines. I'm going to use this shell as a test she'll I guess, I don't know. I just wasted 50 bucks though.

I 've probably painted 200 bodies and I always clean them with dawn dish soap and rinse with hot water, blow dry with air. Next I apply my window mask and scuff all of the body with a red scuff pad. I then blow it out good again and mist a clear coat on the body and then put on my graphics. After graphics are down I mist again with clear and start painting."thumbsup"
Ernie,
 
I 've probably painted 200 bodies and I always clean them with dawn dish soap and rinse with hot water, blow dry with air. Next I apply my window mask and scuff all of the body with a red scuff pad. I then blow it out good again and mist a clear coat on the body and then put on my graphics. After graphics are down I mist again with clear and start painting."thumbsup"
Ernie,

You clear the inside? I've never seen anyone mention that before? Hm. I just feel like the paint wouldn't stick regardless of what I did. I got it from Hobby Lobby, so maybe it was shit paint, but it wa the wicked line that was suggested to me. Is Faskolor the same formula?
 
You clear the inside? I've never seen anyone mention that before? Hm. I just feel like the paint wouldn't stick regardless of what I did. I got it from Hobby Lobby, so maybe it was shit paint, but it wa the wicked line that was suggested to me. Is Faskolor the same formula?
I didn't see what paint you are using but I have painted many bodies with the faskcolor. Notice that I said a mist, not a full coat of clear. I find that if I wipe with alcohol, and want blend or fade colors that it leaves a residue that would catch the paint. By using the fogged clear I don't get that over spray. Also when thinning water base paint I use windex as my thinner."thumbsup"
Ernie
 
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I didn't see what paint you are using but I have painted many bodies with the faskcolor. Notice that I said a mist, not a full coat of clear. I find that if I wipe with alcohol, and want blend or fade colors that it leaves a residue that would catch the paint. By using the fogged clear I don't get that over spray. Also when thinning water base paint I use windex as my thinner."thumbsup"
Ernie

We tried windex with the first base coat of green and all it did was orange peel as soon as it hit the surface. Almost like it pooled into itself. I'm going to wash this body with dawn tomorrow, blast it silver and look at getting another one for a nicer body.

We used Createx Wicked paints.
 
I've painted tons of bodies with createx. There was definitely a little learning curve coming from solvent/laquer type. I think you may have too much gun. If you were using an auto detail gun instead of an airbrush it probably wasn't atomizing enough to get a very fine mist. Key is to get a very fine mist covering the body, take a hair dryer and dry that coat, then go to the next. Once you get a good uniform layer covering the body you can start moving to heavier coat. The hair dryer will def speed up time. I use rubbing alcohol as thinner instead of windex to speed things up. Once painted I back with krylon fusion to make waterproof and scratch resistant. Once you get the hang of it, it works great. I no longer scuff bodies, just wash with soap/water. Stuff it very flexible when dry.
 
I would use the actual createx reducer not water. I use a AB with varied tip sizes and have had no issues with adhesion using Createx or Wicked colors. I use a little dish soap and rinse, that's all. No scuffing required, at least I haven't need to. I recently flipped a truck and the roof caved in. I "popped' it back out and it didn't affect the paint at all. No chipping, pealing, or anything.

 
I also apply a couple light coats of clear after adding masks and lightly scuffing, I find the clear coat makes for super sharp paint lines since it actually helps to seal off the masking in areas that sometimes bleed through the paint edges, if the clear gets under your masking you wont see it and the color coat cant since the clear has sealed off those areas.
 
Why would you use wax & grease remover:shock: , I would hazard a guess that is ya problem mate"thumbsup"

Warm soapy water
Scuff
Rinse
Mask
Paint

Kick back and admire ya work

It is NOT a car:lmao:
 
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