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DIY links -- rod ends?

WAM

Rock Crawler
Joined
May 4, 2011
Messages
949
Location
SoCal
I want to be able to fab my own suspension and steering links for my RTC Scorpion. Tubing and threaded rod sounds convenient for getting started. I'll do something more elegant later.

I found 3mm stainless threaded rod and 1/4 OD x 1/8 ID lexan tube at McMaster-Carr. Could also do 4mm, 6-32 and 8-32.

So my question is on rod ends. People seem to recommend Traxxas, but I can't find specs on them.

Is the #1942 3mm thread?
Revo and Jato maybe 4mm?

Any other good candidate rod ends for homemade 3mm and 4mm threaded links?
 
I use Revo rod ends, but I tap them out to 10-24 thread, and use 10-24 all-thread and 1/4" brake line for the sleeve. I've 4-linked the front and rear, and also did the steering this way.
I can get you some pics later tonight if needed.
 
Similarly, I tap the Traxxas ends with an 8-32 tap, use 8-32 threaded rod, and then sleeve it with aluminum tubing. The endlinks are already drilled perfectly for an 8-32 tap. "thumbsup"
 
I use 8/32 threaded rod with revo ball ends. The 8/32 seems to stay better than the 4mm. You may want to pick up a tap also. It makes threading the ball ends easier. Anything smaller will give you problems as soon as you put them in a bind. For the sleeves I use knitting needles from walmart. You can buy them in several colors so matching your rig should be simple.
 
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Like mentioned above, I make sleeved links with 8/32" all thread sleeved with either 1/4" aluminum (for uppers) or 1/4" stainless (for lowers). I dont tap the Revo/Jato rod ends, just start threading. I've never had an issue with the hundreds of links I have built this way.
 
Like most, I start with threaded rod...typically 4mm and then sleeve it in 1/4" Delrin Tube. All purchased from McMaster.
 
Ummm, thanx guys, but the question was what threads are in the popular rod ends?

Since you say the 8-32 fits "tighter than 4mm" in the Revo rod ends, I assume the REVO is actually a 4mm and you're putting 8-32 in it by either tapping it or just forcing the rod end on?
 
the question was what threads are in the popular rod ends?
Didnt most folks answer that question? 8/32" in Revo. They fit, they wont pop out, they will be strong, they take a 3mm bolt through the metal part of the rod end.
 
Okay, I guess you could say that. What I took from it is the 8-32 can be made to fit, but was not the original thread. Regardless, you're right -- that's the stuff I'll buy. Is a 3mm bolt a tight fit in the ball? I would have guessed the ball was intended for a 4mm bolt since typical rod ends have the same bore as thread.

Anyway, I've got my McMaster order written up. I think I can find the Revo ball ends locally. So thanks again.
 
The 3mm bolt fits perfectly.

I am not sure if the Revo rod ends are designed for 4mm or 8/32", but my local hardware store doesnt carry 4mm allthread, so I use 8/32". When I finish the link, before I put the rod end on, I simply bevel the edge of the all thread to help it start threading easier.

BTW, I could have sworn that the Revo's take 6/32" allthread. I will need to check my stock when I get home to be certain. I usually just make sure to take a rod end to the store with me so I get the right size allthread.
 
The 3mm bolt fits perfectly.

I am not sure if the Revo rod ends are designed for 4mm or 8/32", but my local hardware store doesnt carry 4mm allthread, so I use 8/32". When I finish the link, before I put the rod end on, I simply bevel the edge of the all thread to help it start threading easier.

BTW, I could have sworn that the Revo's take 6/32" allthread. I will need to check my stock when I get home to be certain. I usually just make sure to take a rod end to the store with me so I get the right size allthread.


Revo Ends are 4mm....but people make the 8-32 threaded rod fit. I make all my links with the 4mm to make it easier for customers to thread on their ends. I also keep some 8-32 in my stock....but it is not as user-friendly for customers. I am just lucky to work so close to a McMaster Carr Will-Call Warehouse.
 
Ahh...ok....then it must be 6/32" that I use...because I dont tap anything, just force it in there.
 
8/32 will fit without tapping. 6/32 seems to slip out too easy for me. As for the original question, none of my revo ball ends came threaded. They are usually advertised as 4mm.
 
Yes the 1942's are 3mm and the revo are for 4mm. Like many plastic parts they are drilled for the size of the threads abut the threads are not tapped. They become tapped when you install the threaded part. The Revo ends are more convenient in that with the 1942's, they are a little smaller then the stock Axial ones. So to avoid slop, you have to shim them with washers. I think the Revo ends are closer to stock Axial size although I am not positive. This is as far as the width of the ball end, not to do with the size threads they use. They both use 3mm bolts for connecting them to the chassi or axles (same as stock Axial). The reason i think may people use 6/32 etc is that it is much easier to find then metric stuff at local hardware stores. I used 6/32 and 1942's for some of my links.
 
8/32 will fit without tapping.
Yep, I was right the first time, I just got home and checked and I use 8/32" allthread and never tapped a rod end. I cant remember ever having a problem of this setup pulling out of the rod end...."thumbsup"
 
Now that we've got that squared away, I need to source the rod ends. My LHS didn't have anythiing, so I'll deal with one of our forum vendors. I'm finding there are "big" revo rod ends, "small" revo rod ends and some other similar stuff. I'm guessing it's the big rod ends we're dealing with. These:

http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/tra5347.htm
 
I never knew there were big and small, but those are the ones that I use. Jato's have "long" and "short"...
 
I prefer Jato for lower links because of the longer thread engagement. I prefer 8-32 all-thread instead of 4mm because 8-32 has a course thread compared to 4mm which has a fine pitch. I also tap the first half of the rod end to help keep the all-thread straight...the second half I leave alone to keep the all-thread tight.

Also, I'm not sure how long your lexan tubing will last if used on lowers...I use 1/4" stainless tubing. Also, I prefer stainless all-thread to the chromed over steel stuff.
 
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