DIY links -- rod ends?

[WAM]

I prefer Jato for lower links because of the longer thread engagement. I prefer 8-32 all-thread instead of 4mm because 8-32 has a course thread compared to 4mm which has a fine pitch. I also tap the first half of the rod end to help keep the all-thread straight...the second half I leave alone to keep the all-thread tight.

Also, I'm not sure how long your lexan tubing will last if used on lowers...I use 1/4" stainless tubing. Also, I prefer stainless all-thread to the chromed over steel stuff.

Yeah, I said Lexan, but I meant Delrin. Sr moment. I ordered stainless and aluminum 8-32 and delrin, aluminum and steel tubes. Everything was cheap enough I decided to get a variety for experimentation. Also picked up some self-adhesive teflon film in case I wanted to make underbody stuff slippery.

But too late for the Jato -- already ordered the Revo rod ends. I like the tip on partial tapping though, thanx.

Couple questions. Do you guys do bent lower links using tubing and allthread?. I could probably do that with the stainless all thread and steel tubing. Dunno how well the delrin or aluminum would bend.

And my AX10 RTC stock steering tie-rod has sharp bends at the two ends. Aftermarket links seem to be straight. Doesn't look to me like straight would fit the stock components.

 

[xirtic]

You use the threaded rod...but have to heat the delrin to bend it nicely. I do this often with great success.

 

[forbid89]

I'm not trying to promote myself but take a look at what I did with my AX10 RTC:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305615

I think it's pretty similar to what you are trying to accomplish with yours, I replaced all my links with revo rod ends. I used 8-32 all thread for the steering and upper links and 3/8" delrin for the lowers. Delrin is easily bent using by heating it, just be careful not to burn it.

 

[JeremyH]

I prefer Jato for lower links because of the longer thread engagement.

You know, I thought the same at first, but IMO the Revo's are a bit stronger. I have broken more Jato's on my super than I have Revos.

 

[simon170]

From what I've read, both the Revo and Jato ends use a 4mm thread on the rod side, but do any use a 4mm hole on the ball end? I nearly bought the Jato ends but read they use 3mm on the ball end.

I'm building a big 1:8th scale crawler with 40 series tyres and plenty of power, so want to use 4mm hardware rather than 3mm.

 

[jetboat]

I have used revo ends with 3mm hardware on many super class trucks and never had any issue with breakage. The trick is to look at the rating of the hardware you use. Stay away from stainless, its nice and shiny but very soft. Generally a stainless is someplace around a 2.2 harness but you can get black oxides all the way up to 12.2 at mcmaster.

 

[simon170]

Yeah I did look at stainless ends, but read they were too soft. The thing is, the trucks going to have a 2 speed and plenty of brushless go in it, so going to take a pretty good beating when bashing (dual purpose truck) hence wanting the 4mm.
I did look at McMaster, but works out REALLY expensive

 

[jetboat]

Ive ran a 10# super with dual brushless clod axles and never broke a 3mm screw in a rod end. Killed plenty of other parts and broken a couple revo ends but, never killed the screw itself. Generally the link will bend long before a bolt snaps.

 

[simon170]

Will have to give it some thought then I guess. I just like things "belt n braces" style lol, planning on making some mega OTT links for a "could drive through a wall" type of feel. Which the style I'm going for all over really, hence the bigger rod ends. But seems I'd have to pay the price of a nice brushless motor just for rod ends.
I'll keep looking and see what I come up with. But at least now I know that if I do use m3 bolts through the eyelet of the Revo ends I wont break anything, thanks mate

 

[jetboat]

something to keep in mind, setting up all the connections in double shear will greatly increase the strength of the bolt as it will be supported on both ends. In single shear, the bolt has the possibilty to bend but, in double shear it doesnt have any way to bend as it is supported.

 

[WAM]

Not sure it's worthwhile worrying about what type of steel bolt or 3mm vs 4mm thru the ball or double shear mounting, when the rod end itself is a piece of plastic.

But if you gotta upgrade the strength, do all that stuff but also change to aluminum or even steel rod ends:

Aluminum Black M4 Bend Rod End (1).

Now instead of link failures you can deal with ripping the brackets off the axles. :ror:

 

[jetboat]

those aluminum rod ends like to wear pretty quick. They would actually prove to be the weak spot. Revo ends are extremely strong and will suprise you... kind of like rpm plastic

 

[WAM]

But life is different than strength. At my club comps somebody breaks a revo rod end or two every event. While aluminum ends might require replacement when they get sloppy, I wouldn't expect them to break. For myself, I'm not a wild driver and use Revo's whenever I can. I keep a couple aluminum ends in my spares box just in case.

Now you say aluminums would be the weak spot. Are you saying they're actually likely to break?