DLUX super build

[Erik D_lux]

Is there a problem with 12mm hexs stripping? I will say that the RC4wd hex is super sloppy to start with and I have some serious concerns with them.

Not taking it the wrong way Jeremy. I actually feel the same way. I am concerned with the links, possibly the link/shock mounts, wheel faces and electronics. IMO they are all pushing it really hard and I will not be surprised if any of them fail. I need to figure out the demands of the car and I suppose this is my way of going about it. It would bother me much more to have 1/4" TI links all the way around and never know for sure what does fail. I dont know if that makes sense?

If I were a top super driver right now I would probably think a different way. Right now it will be my driving that kills my scores (by a long shot) so I wont be too let down if my car fails at this point in the game. I will drive it as much as possible, find the weak points and adjust from there.

 

[krawlfreak]

i don't think you would ever strip a 12mm hex.

the issue will be with any type of side impact or load on the wheel/tire that will put an obscene amount of leverage on the small surface ares of the vp hub.

that coupled with the single face of your wheels could be the issue.

i would recommend a doubler for between the face and the hub to increase the surface are and bolt through strength.

i know guys run them in the hpi wheels but if they are done right the hub actually presses into a bore in the wheel strengthening it considerably.

as for the links i would up the diameter of the most triangulated pair (top or bottom) but at least one set.

the electronics will be fine. most guys are running fxr's,brxl's and they hold up just fine. the motors will be an issue on 4 cell, only because of the extremely fast com wear.

 

[Erik D_lux]

the issue will be with any type of side impact or load on the wheel/tire that will put an obscene amount of leverage on the small surface ares of the vp hub.

that coupled with the single face of your wheels could be the issue.

i would recommend a doubler for between the face and the hub to increase the surface are and bolt through strength.

Good idea with a doubler. I think if it is an issue I would just go to a thicker face and be done with it though.

the electronics will be fine. most guys are running fxr's,brxl's and they hold up just fine. the motors will be an issue on 4 cell, only because of the extremely fast com wear.

Yeah,.... :lmao: You might not want to check this thread for the next day or two. Even I am super sketched out.:lmao:

 

[Erik D_lux]

More progress...

I made some knuckle weights that were inspired by Sven and http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/superclass-crawlers/348094-tuners-superbully.html#post3401558. I took the two and mixed them together. I really liked Tunners idea of the bolts because it was so simple.

The knuckle weights use bolts and nuts instead of slugs. I liked this idea better because it did not waste any room since the nuts take up almost all of the space. Its so versatile since you can push most of the weight to the face of the wheel and utilize the design of the wheel. For the most part, you can put the weight where you want it. I didnt know how much the nuts and bolts would weigh when I made them so I made more holes than I think I will need. I also made some holes for smaller bolts but in hindsight, the clearances are so close that I dont think I would use them and I would just cut them without the smaller holes next time.

Knuckle weight itself.

Each bolt weighing in at 1oz

Each nut weighing in at approx .45oz each

Then, this is the setup I decided to try out initially, 7oz and I tried to put the weight in what I would think would be the best spots.

All the way to the face...

Looks like it wont hurt ground clearance much. If I were really motivated, I might turn down the heads for better ground clearance, probably not though....

 

[Erik D_lux]

As seen in the previous post, I got the material in for the wheels. I decided to push out the wiring and get the wheels/tires/foam situated.

Again, Tunner helped me out with the foams. When I felt his foam in his tires I knew that they were what I wanted to run. I went out to Joanns fabrics and got their medium density, high density and some 3" thick high density. Cutting it took some effort. I tried HF's heat knife, that worked out like crap. It melted the foam and made a serious mess. I ended up getting an electric knife from Wal mart for $10 and that worked like a champ! I used the medium density in the fronts and 3" HD in the rear BC's. They feel just like I would think would be perfect. Thanks for the tip Tim!

Here is a shot of the finished T/W/F. I clapped out the Sedonas as much as possible, took the grinder to the sidewall of the Trencher portion and clipped the BC's tread. Man, that was a lot of work!

Since I was also curious of the weight of each T/W/F I weighed them.

Sedona 10.4 oz

BC 11oz

 

[Erin]

do you have any part numbers on the Joann foam? I have been having some trouble locating suitable foams for my rear pins as well.

 

[Gear Jammer]

Nice job on the W/T/F combo.:twisted:

I think the hex should hold up fine; I've been running 12mm hex wheels for a while now. I've put the beat down on these for months now; with no problems yet.

I figured the hex area would be the first spot to fail on these.


I've also been thinking about the options you'd have using SLW hubs...

1. Easy offset adjustability front and rear.
2. Lighter wheel weight with SLW hubs.
3. Alot of people already own SLW hubs.
4. If you decided to run 17mm hexes; You would have to cut multiple sets of 17mm hubs. That's more material, more machine time, and a higher end cost.

 

[krawlfreak]

so are your wheels 3.8 or 115mm like blasts?

 

[4xFord]

so are your wheels 3.8 or 115mm like blasts?

I'm guessing 3.8, the sidewall doesn't look stretched.

 

[JeremyH]

i know guys run them in the hpi wheels but if they are done right the hub actually presses into a bore in the wheel strengthening it considerably.

Yes, here is a picture of how Eddie cuts the Blast hex to fit the SLW hub:

It actually takes a bit of work to get the hub in there....before you even get out the hub screws.:ror:

 

[Erik D_lux]

do you have any part numbers on the Joann foam? I have been having some trouble locating suitable foams for my rear pins as well.

I know what youre thinking and I was thinking the same thing but, seriously, just go in there. There are not too many options to choose from. The only thing I saw were a package of medium density and high density in the 2x15x16. The 3" wide is the same density that comes in the package but you have to have them cut it from the bulk strip, you know, the one that you would buy as a camping bed or something? You can buy it by the foot which will give you 3pcs.

Nice job on the W/T/F combo.:twisted:

I think the hex should hold up fine; I've been running 12mm hex wheels for a while now. I've put the beat down on these for months now; with no problems yet.

What thickness and material is that face made from? I am surprised they hold up too

so are your wheels 3.8 or 115mm like blasts?

3.7.

 

[shelljeep]

Just wanted to make sure you saw this.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tools-procedures/203268-tire-foam-fixture.html

 

[CREEPERBOB]

Damn Erik, I don't know how I missed this thread. Great build, I love when you guys with machine tools get to building something :mrgreen:, always new idea's "thumbsup".
Look forward to meeting you at Copperstate and running with you.

 

[Erin]

so did you cut strips and butt joint them or full size discs ?

 

[Erik D_lux]

Just wanted to make sure you saw this.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tools-procedures/203268-tire-foam-fixture.html

Nice! I will have to try that if I cut foams again.

Damn Erik, I don't know how I missed this thread. Great build, I love when you guys with machine tools get to building something :mrgreen:, always new idea's "thumbsup".
Look forward to meeting you at Copperstate and running with you.

Thanks! See you down there!

so did you cut strips and butt joint them or full size discs ?

I did full size discs. I think I wound up doing 7.5" o.d. and 4" i.d.

 

[CREEPERBOB]

I did full size discs. I think I wound up doing 7.5" o.d. and 4" i.d.

What O.D. are your tires?

 

[krawlfreak]

3.7.

that explains the weight.

 

[Erik D_lux]

What O.D. are your tires?

About 7.75

 

[Gear Jammer]

I know what youre thinking and I was thinking the same thing but, seriously, just go in there. There are not too many options to choose from. The only thing I saw were a package of medium density and high density in the 2x15x16. The 3" wide is the same density that comes in the package but you have to have them cut it from the bulk strip, you know, the one that you would buy as a camping bed or something? You can buy it by the foot which will give you 3pcs.



What thickness and material is that face made from? I am surprised they hold up too



3.7.

Erik, I just measured the face on my rims... it's a 1/4 thick and they're made from Alu.

I'm pretty sure they're cast too...:roll:

 

[Erik D_lux]

Ok, gotcha. I thought they were plastic for some reason.