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Drew's Power Wagon

Minor update. On vacation and slacked a few days. Had a buddy print a trans tunnel for me to help speed things along. Floor is "done". Total rework of the seat in progress, no pics though until it's "done".


Tease :)

I have this body in the mail, but I chickened out and ordered the Exclusive RC interior.

Looking forward to how this shakes out for you "thumbsup"
 
Tease :)

I have this body in the mail, but I chickened out and ordered the Exclusive RC interior.

Looking forward to how this shakes out for you "thumbsup"

Curious to see what it looks like. I wanted one but just couldn't justify the cost.

New seat is "done". I was jamming on it though and didn't stop to take many photos.


 
Great work! You got skills.

Thanks dude. This is my first interior "scratch build". It's definitely been a challenge. Hopefully my skills continue to improve and I get quicker. I have 8 hours in that seat :shock:
 
The Styrene wrk is looking damn fine! It looks like you curved the piece that runs under the side and front of the seat? Using heat?
 
The Styrene wrk is looking damn fine! It looks like you curved the piece that runs under the side and front of the seat? Using heat?

Curved yes, but no heat, just brute force. The seat is made from layers of .030 sheet so it's pretty easy to bend.

Can't post a reply without a pic. New dash in progress. The other was too small, but the contours will still right. My buddy's 3d printer is down for a day or so, so I bit the bullet and decided to make it from styrene. Probably just confidence from how the seat turned out. At least now I'll get an extra -2 for "custom interior".

 
More progress today. Dash is "done" and mounted. Needed a break from interior after messing up a door panel on the final part. Built "inner fenders" for the front and mounted a fan to keep a little air moving under the hood.



 
More progress today. Dash is "done" and mounted. Needed a break from interior after messing up a door panel on the final part. Built "inner fenders" for the front and mounted a fan to keep a little air moving under the hood.

Looking good! Are you going to try a scratch steering wheel?

And factory air conditioning too...you're really going all out!
 
Looking good! Are you going to try a scratch steering wheel?

And factory air conditioning too...you're really going all out!


Thanks! Probably not making a steering wheel. Round stuff is really hard. I'll probably dig through my pile of parts for an axial one. If I'm not happy with any of those I'll design and print one. SORRCA rules seem to be OK with off the shelf steering wheels and still getting the extra -2 for custom interior.
 
Thanks! Probably not making a steering wheel. Round stuff is really hard. I'll probably dig through my pile of parts for an axial one. If I'm not happy with any of those I'll design and print one. SORRCA rules seem to be OK with off the shelf steering wheels and still getting the extra -2 for custom interior.




They might be a lil expensive , a steering wheel https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/122923048325
I like the C option .
 
They might be a lil expensive , a steering wheel https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/122923048325
I like the C option .

Thanks for the suggestion. I may keep that in mind however I'm trying to avoid as much metal as possible.

No real updates on this since my last post. Need a small break, and work has killed me the past couple days with 13 hour days. Really need to get door panels done this week. Our first local "points" race is this weekend. I may just show up and judge and help run the courses.
 
That interior is looking good! I definitely want to see how this progresses! "thumbsup"

Looks great!

Thanks y'all!

Our first local "comp" and show and shine is this weekend. I won't be ready, but I've really been pushing for SORRCA based rules in our local club this year, and it looks like I've convinced the local "organizers". I'll be showing up to help set up courses, tech and judge this weekend. The interior will be complete, but nothing will be painted lol.

I had an hour or so to mess with it tonight. Another 13 hour day but was good to relax and cut on some more styrene.

In retrospect I really need to contribute more towards some "how-to" posts on this site. I've got a slightly different methodology being in metalworking for over 2 decades.

New door panels are in the works. For those that haven't picked up on it in the background, I'm very reliant on a set of dial calipers to help myself lay items out on the sheet. The "backer" material is .040, with a .010 overlay to act as the bolt on "insert" and a .060 half round bead around the outside. Normally I spend time edge sanding to get a radius to help differentiate between layers, however these layers are thin enough that the primer should help blend between them with a small radius.

Spending over 2 decades in a machine shop really had me spoiled on layout fluids like dykem. I'm not sure how that stuff reacts with styrene, but I know sharpie works, is readily available and from what I can tell, doesn't affect the bond too much (although I could be wrong).

So today, I laid out some new door panels on .040, referencing my messed up one as the overall dimensions and placement were correct. Starting with some that appeared to be the correct size and aspect ratio, I drew an extra wide sharpie line around the perimeter. I then took my calipers and set them to the desired distance, and used the sharp corners to "scribe" the width I wanted around the panel. I then followed this up with my exacto #11 blade used to "spot" the screw holes in the panel.

I then took these measurements, doubled the offset for the hole centerline and drew these out on .010 sheet. This will act as a raised portion that looks (to me) to be raised on the panel. These were cut out, corners were radiused and bonded to the .040 sheet.



I then bonded the panel to the backer sheet I'm using for the full door panel. Overall I'm not too concerned with the leftover sharpie bleeding, by the time it's painted no one will really know.

After this was complete and dry, I ran my .060 half round as a bead around the panel. A learning experience I had from the first try was that the half round cracked and broke as soon as I hit it with the solvent. This time I brushed a thin layer on the half round before bending to help soften everything up. It definitely worked for this one, hopefully I won't break it on the next.



As you can see in the photos I've left the inner panel overhanging the actual backer panel. After everything dries I'll go back and trim this to the appropriate length. To keep both sides the same, everything is done in pairs.

More updates to come by the end of the week. Stay tuned!
 
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