Dug out a 2.2 tuber after 8yrs in storage

[rerock]

Okay, I'm ready to order a radio set.

I see on Futaba's site, this 3PRKA radio.

In looking at the Tactic TTX300 set that was recommended earlier.

Is the futaba worth the extra $20 (or so)?

 

[rerock]

Here's another question:

If I were to enter this rig in a comp next year, what class would this rig fall under as it sits?

Class would it be in if I were to get a set of shorter shocks and some 1.9 Boggers?

That said, can 1.9 Boggers be made to fit on those old RC4WD 2.2 rims, or would i need a new set of rims too?

Thanks

 

[rerock]

Went to the LHS, and they had the Futaba radio in stock.

While I was there, I talked to the guy about motors. I explained about the abundance of torque and lack of wheel speed. I ended up walking out with a Holmes Crawlmaster Expert 13T.

He explained that this will have more torque and enough wheel speed to keep up with a stock SCX10.

Time to slap it all in and see for myself.

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

Those tlt axles are about to die. :lol:


The best bang for the buck IMO for cheaper stuff would be an ae-2 axial esc or Holmes brxl as they both have great adjustability and fantastic drag brakes. The brxl handles up to 6s and has a better holding brake but it's also a lot more expensive than picking up a used ae-2. I've been happy with the solar d772 servo with a castle bec set at 8.4 volts (I run 3s so I need the bec, if you run 2s you can power the servo directly off the battery. I also need the bec to run the ae-2 on 3s since it will burn out without it)

That's a cool chassis to start with. With some updates it will be even better.

 

[rerock]

Update: The new radio works great; the range is where it needs to be now.

As far as the motor, I like it. It does seem to have more torque then the old 55T, and also provides more punch and wheel speed. After running around the yard, I'm thinking it would benefit from a little less torque and a little more top end.

Let's say it now tops out about 6mph. What spur/pinion combo would get it to about 9 mph?

After about 20minutes, I think there's a chipped tooth or two in the rear axle now. :mrgreen:

 

[rocpede]

That's a sweet rig you have.. Still running the tlt axles.. That's old school stuff.. I still have my tlt crawlers... Can't wait to see action pics or video of it...


Sent from my 2500HD

 

[rerock]

That's a sweet rig you have.. Still running the tlt axles.. That's old school stuff.. I still have my tlt crawlers... Can't wait to see action pics or video of it...


Sent from my 2500HD

I'm not sure how much longer it'll have those TLT's though. I've pretty much burned through my stash of spare parts for them.

It's about time to start shopping for new axles. I think a set on beefy aluminum SCX10 axles of some sort might be the eay to go.

 

[djjiz]

SSD axles are pretty sweet.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/540494-new-ssd-scx10-axle-housings.html

Nice rig by the way.
It would fall into a 1.9 Trail or 2.2 Trail class.
Our rules are very simple these days."thumbsup"

 

[rerock]

SSD axles are pretty sweet.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/540494-new-ssd-scx10-axle-housings.html

Nice rig by the way.
It would fall into a 1.9 Trail or 2.2 Trail class.
Our rules are very simple these days."thumbsup"

I saw those, very cool looking. I'm going to yank the front axle off of the SCX10 tonight and see if it'll fit on there; hopefully it works out because that will make finding a replacement much easier.

 

[rerock]

Those tlt axles are about to die. :lol:

Okay, with that new 13T and the 90/12 gears, that TLT rear end lasted about 20 minutes. Sent differential screws through the housing! :lol:

I am now officially out of spare parts, so I'll see if i can get an SCX10 axle to fit under there.

I picked up 87T and 80T spurs, along with 14T and 16T pinions. I wish i didn't bury the trans in the chassis; it's a PITA to get things swapped around.

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

:lmao:


Scx axles will fit easily as will ar60's. My vote is ar60's since they are so much easier to service and their housings are far stronger than scx. They are a good bit wider than your widened tlt's though.

 

[rerock]

:lmao:


Scx axles will fit easily as will ar60's. My vote is ar60's since they are so much easier to service and their housings are far stronger than scx. They are a good bit wider than your widened tlt's though.

Is the AR60 what comes on the Wraith?

I like that the Wraith axles are drivers side drop; they would keep the drivelight in a straight line, and pretty beefy.

These TLT axles have like 16mm wideners on them, so they're not exactly narrow. I'll have to see what the width is on those AR60's.

 

[rerock]

I switched out the 90T spur to an 87, and the pinion from a 12T to a 16. It now has the the same top speed ad the SCX, which is perfect. The SCX has the edge in acceleration, but it's at least half the weight so its understandable.

I also picked up a 14T pinion and may still give that a test, but I'm content with it at the moment.

With a brand new battery, radio, motor, spur, and pinion; this thing drives like a new car!

Pretty soon it'll have to get new axles and links too.

 

[Bry73]

Nice looking truck there rerock, glad that you dug it out and updating it. Hope to see it out at a trail event or comp next season or maybe at a snowcrawl this winter.

 

[rerock]

Nice looking truck there rerock, glad that you dug it out and updating it. Hope to see it out at a trail event or comp next season or maybe at a snowcrawl this winter.

You probably will.

The only thing that sucks about this chassis is that when I built it, I didn't intend on changing out batteries. I always just drove them in my backyard, and when the battery died I just put it on the charger.

In order to get the battery out you have to remove the interior, then remove the trans, and a slew of wiring; total PITA.

It was never an issue because the rig would never last a full pack before something broke (axle shaft, etc) and required surgery. :lmao:

A trail ride or comp would be fun, I've never done one due to battery life and mechanical reliability.

Once these last spare axle parts are broken and new axles are installed, it should be reliable, but the battery life issue remains to be sorted out.

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

Is the AR60 what comes on the Wraith?

I like that the Wraith axles are drivers side drop; they would keep the drivelight in a straight line, and pretty beefy.

These TLT axles have like 16mm wideners on them, so they're not exactly narrow. I'll have to see what the width is on those AR60's.

Late to see this but yes. Ar60's come in wraith rigs. Hardened overdrive gears up front and hardened underdrive gears out back with universal style axles up front will last a damned long time.


Technology has come so far that now a small 2000 mah 3s battery will last longer than a 3000 mah mihm. Join the current technology market and you'll be able to change batteries no problem.

 

[rerock]

Late to see this but yes. Ar60's come in wraith rigs. Hardened overdrive gears up front and hardened underdrive gears out back with universal style axles up front will last a damned long time.


Technology has come so far that now a small 2000 mah 3s battery will last longer than a 3000 mah mihm. Join the current technology market and you'll be able to change batteries no problem.

I like the features of those, but they're going to be too wide.

I did bolt up an axle from the SCX10, and I think they'll do the job.

Looking around, I found these vanquish aluminum housings. I like those Currie housings, but not now you have to remove a bunch of stuff to get at the diff.

At least with these housings, you can get at the diff, like normal. Sure, clearance might not be as good, but whatever.

I hate the wideners that are on there now, the nuts always come loose. I saw the SLW hubs, and those might work better. If I do that though, I'll need new rims. Rims these days seem to run on the narrower side of things.

I'll have to pull a tire off and measure these old school RC4WD beadlocks.

Switching to lipo would be nice so that I could toss a 11.1v light bar on it. What's funny though is th at I like the weight balance with that nimh battery up front. I suppose I could add some balast weight up front or something.

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

There are bad ass scx width housings from several companies out there now. Both plastic and aluminum with either removable 3rd members or diff covers like ar60's have. Look into the "XR" mod using at least VP knuckles since they are the most versatile knuckles available since you can change steering arms on both the front and back of it.

Also search "drill press wheel mod" and you'll find the easy way to convert any wheel to an slw type hub. Also switching to 3s lipo opens up a whole new world of power not only to the motor but also to the steering servo. Running something cheap from the classifieds such as an Axial ae-3 with a castle external bec running the servo I'll be more than you ever dreamed of 6 years ago. :lol:

 

[rocpede]

I switched out the 90T spur to an 87, and the pinion from a 12T to a 16. It now has the the same top speed ad the SCX, which is perfect. The SCX has the edge in acceleration, but it's at least half the weight so its understandable.



I also picked up a 14T pinion and may still give that a test, but I'm content with it at the moment.



With a brand new battery, radio, motor, spur, and pinion; this thing drives like a new car!



Pretty soon it'll have to get new axles and links too.

When I ran my tlt back in the day. I used 14/87 with a 55 turn lathe motor.. It was good between wheel speed and torque.. Now I have a brushless setup and still have to figure it out, for gearing when I get new batteries..


Sent from my 2500HD

 

[djjiz]

Switching to lipo would be nice so that I could toss a 11.1v light bar on it. What's funny though is th at I like the weight balance with that nimh battery up front. I suppose I could add some balast weight up front or something.

Forward bias isn't as dramatic as it used to be. Personally run a 55/45 setup so it goes down hill as well as up.