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Eric the Red - Poison Dart Build

Dasher

Croakin' across the pond!
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
272
Location
Nottingham, UK
I've had this chassis sat in its Chinese wrapping paper for about 2 years now and so decided that it was time to do something with it.

The build has started with an AX10 scored off Ebay and stripped back to the halves of two axle cases and a tranny - that is about all that will be kept.

The axles have been rebuilt with HD Axial Lockers, Under drives and overdrives, locked out rear (it was 4 wheel steer), Gunnar's Beef Toobs, 3Racing Drive shafts (Gunnar's pins), hi clearance knuckles and Axial alloy Chubs for clocking. I've not gone BTA because I'm sure that I'll follow others and go with an AXR10 axle mod at some point.

Mock-up is with 3.5" and 4" Big Bores but at this stage it really is a mock-up - no oil in the shocks! I've cut several lengths of uppers and will experiment until I feel it's working right. The rear seems OK -axle clocked back. I'm also happy with the stance.

Shafts are Junfac - the rear is stretched out a little too far for my liking and I've ordered a longer one. Korea to UK is quite quick! The shafts will be modded to take M4 setscrews (one I know which shafts I'm using).

Specs:
Poison Dart Chassis
Axial AX10 Axle cases, Underdrive / Overdrive Gears,Axial HD Lockers, 3 Racing CVD / Gunnars pins, Hot racing rear lockout and shafts, VP Razors to the rear
Axial Clockable "c"s, Axial, High clearance knuckles, home made knuckle weights. Front axle is clocked (mild). Gunnar's Beef Toobs front and rear.
Axial hex's shaped to fit Mayhem hubs, Mayhem Rims, Mayhem rings
Axial AX10 Transmission case, Robinson Racing Gears and Outdrive, Mirrored
STRC Front 4 link Plate, Eyeball Engineering D Rear link plate
Junfac drive shafts
Traxxas 4mm Rod Ends all round
Upper Links and steering links are drilled and tapped 8mm Delrin
Front Shocks - Traxxas Big Bores 3.5" with Team Associated 1/18 Springs (rear, medium), home modded retainer cups, JeepinDougs standoffs, 30wt Oil
Rear Shocks - Losi 4", Losi Gold Springs, JeepinDoug Standoffs, 30wt oil.
Spur is 87 tooth but may change.
Servo: PowerHD 1701MG - 17kg at 6.0V
 

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I'm not sure just what the "high clearance" knuckles are - they're certainly not the Axial ones and will be replaced.

I was also looking for a cheap knuckle weight system. I didn't want to spend a fortune as I'm not sure how long the AX knuckles will remain the steering of choice.

So, I went down to the Plumber's store and guess what I found?

These are 28mm end stops. After carving with the Dremel they added 75g to each side of the axle. They fit nicely into a Mayhem wheel - and they cost less than $10 a pair!! I've added set screws to either side so that they grip nice and tight.
 

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Over the weekend I rebuilt the mock-up as a roller - some things changed (as always) along the way. I'm guessing at spring weights at this stage although I have had a motor, battery and servo in place together with a small box to simulate esc and radio weight - so I know that I'm in the ball park. Can't really tune it further until I drive it of course.

Home made knuckle weights are locked onto the knuckles nice and solid don't foul the wheels. The Junfac shafts have been drilled and tapped to take a 4mm grub screw but still need shrink wrapping to keep the pins in place. Motor plate still needs trimming too.
 

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Lookin good! I'm confused by those knuckle weights though..how are they attached?

Each one has four, 4mm, setscrews diagonally opposed to each other running onto indents ground into the knuckle (very light indents - just for grip. This allows for accurate centring as well as purchase. I tried them out on my Frogger over the weekend and put several packs through them. They didn't work loose, even after taking tumbles. I started with only 2 set screws and that didn't work.

They are also offset dependent. The hubs on the front are zero offset, where the ones on the rears aren't and I can't swap the wheels around. Not a problem for me as (a) I have two sets of (4) hubs and (b) I wanted a narrower track in the rear. Front is 10 5/8" to the outer edge of the Sedona, rear is 10 1/4 to the outer edge - Rovers on the rear.
 
looking very good, what rims are they ?

The rims are Mayhem Engineering Monsters and are available with separate hubs so that offset (or track) can be adjusted. I have two sets of hubs, enabling the truck to have a narrowed rear track compared to the front. I have Mayhem Spiders on the "Boris" build but these are fixed hubs and therefore fixed offset. The rim is also wider than the Monster.

The rings are Mayhem Competition Rings - these are usually paired to the Comp rims that take loose ball bearings as weights. I don't have any of these rims though.

The rings on "Boris" are also Mayhem but non anodised. I don't know much about these as AtomicMods shipped them as a present with my Spiders. I think that they may be Five Points but can't be sure.

I also have a set of "Traditional" Black rings for the Monsters (these are 16 hole, as are the rims) - but I like the solid look of the Comps. If you order from Mayhem they will also engrave these rings for you!
 
Put the steering together over the weekend. I've not gone BTA as there is very little space behind the axle on a PD. Eventually I'll probably go with the AXR10 mod. There's approximately 45 degrees in each direction as it stands now. I needed to take the Dremel to the STRC plate but there's still plenty of platform for the battery. The plan is to fit the BEC below the plate (under where the battery will sit.) Plastic horn is just for mock-up.
 

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Heres a blast from the past. Looking at the above photos, I forgot we had put so many chassis braces in:lmao:

BTW I still have one of the Protos on the shelf and an original V2.0
 
It took me a while to realise that the topper comes of with just four screws! I didn't build it up that way - I assembled the whole frame in one go.

Most of the braces are actually for the topper roof and they're going on a diet and having the centres carved out. The two braces that you actually need of course are the are the ones between the shock mounts - there's even a case for those being in 8mm delrin as the 6mm flexes by just cycling the suspension.

Where did you stuff the radio gear ? - i've got very little space between the front axle and the spur wheel. The rear axle looks inviting but I just know that if I put it on there I'll wreck it pretty quickly. I've seen that Casey used an FXR, I presume because of the size, but I'm likely to use a BR-XL which is somewhat bigger. Again. I could de-case it, or even buy it de-cased but it won't get much protection as everywhere is pretty exposed. It's surprising how much things change in 2 years. The basic design is sound though - putting the razors on even rakes the skid. The whole thing is heavy by today's standards - no CF anywhere (yet)!
 
I had a sidewinder mounted on the upper links, BEC under the servo plate an RX mounted ontop of the trans. If I were to do it again I would put everything under the servo plate. BEC, Micro sidewinder and a Futaba R2106GF to with my 4pl. THough I have no idea what radio gear you will be running
 
Thanks Highlucks

I'm running a DX3e on the Frogger and am thinking of the same for the PD. I'll look at a microSidewinder because I'd also like to go under the servo plate - even if that has to wait until I mod the axle.
 
That chassis is very interesting, seems like your cg will be very low. The knuckle weights are a great idea, thanks for sharing.
 
Thanks for the comments guys.
A decision has been made on the motive power and control. HH TM Pro 45T controlled by CC sidewinder micro, cc bec and 3S power. Just hit HH with the order. Plan is to pack as much as possible below the servo plate.
 
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