looks awesome hopping down the stairs. you might have mentioned it already, but what oils are you running in the shocks atm?
30 front 40 rear
looks awesome hopping down the stairs. you might have mentioned it already, but what oils are you running in the shocks atm?
30 front 40 rear
Awesome vid. The suspension looks to be working great. I tried 2wd when I bent my stock dogbones- it was a handful. :shock:
Looks awesome, really dig the videos.
What motor, and what spur and pinion combo are you running. 2s or 3s?
I ran into some issues though, and I'm hoping you can shed some light.
I picked up a set of twin hammers lower links and wraith uppers, but my wheelbase is landing 1/2" longer than yours at 345mm (13.5"). I used Hot racing and vanquish links instead of plastic, but I would assume they are the same length, or at least close. I was actually able to switch out the ends on the links and get down to the 330mm (13") you show, but then the sway bars bind up in the rear and prevent full travel.
At any rate, I've tried the exact same body you used, a Raptor Flotek, and a stock Slash body and none of them come close to lining up without needing to trim a lot of the fenders.
My question for you is then, are those literally the only changes you have made, and if so, can you get me eye-to-eye measurements on both the upper and lower links?
Thanks in advance.
I'm in the same boat. I'm using Vanquish trailing arms for the Vatera Twin Hammers & Vanquish upper links for the Wraith. I ALSO have a set of VTH plastic trailing arms & Wraith plastic upper links.
The VTH & Vanquish trailing arms are the exact same length eye-to-eye at 120mm, and the Wraith upper links & Vanquish are the exact same at 125mm.
Double & tripple checked them. My wheelbase with the Vanquish bits stands at 340mm, and I need to get it down to 330.
Anyone have any ideas???
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Joe, I absolutely love this build. So much so, in fact, that I tried to replicate it. I ran into some issues though, and I'm hoping you can shed some light.
I picked up a set of twin hammers lower links and wraith uppers, but my wheelbase is landing 1/2" longer than yours at 345mm (13.5"). I used Hot racing and vanquish links instead of plastic, but I would assume they are the same length, or at least close. I was actually able to switch out the ends on the links and get down to the 330mm (13") you show, but then the sway bars bind up in the rear and prevent full travel.
At any rate, I've tried the exact same body you used, a Raptor Flotek, and a stock Slash body and none of them come close to lining up without needing to trim a lot of the fenders.
My question for you is then, are those literally the only changes you have made, and if so, can you get me eye-to-eye measurements on both the upper and lower links?
Thanks in advance.
MR.James Knight took the recipe of this yeti trophy and improved it with the rpm tire rack for the rear. This is featured is the December version of the RC car Action magazine.
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I read the article. Definitely recommended for anyone who wants tips on building a yeti trophy truck. This is on my to do list.
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I ordered the hot racing wraith sway bar set. a bit shorter than any of the yeti offerings. I just had to adjust the rod end links of the sway bar and it works perfectly with the shorter wheelbase. ill post pics when I can.
You get an A+... Awesome job!I always wanted a scale trophy truck but I dont have the skills, time and money like other guys who have build theirs from scratch. But I have a Yeti that has been sitting around for sometime. It has been waiting for the perfect parts to show up and I believe I found them. There are only a few simple modification to convert your Axial Yeti into a 1/10 Solid Axle trophy truck. There is more benefit to doing it this way since there already tons of aftermarket support on these parts I can replace any parts broken just like a yeti. Check It out. Part 1 video is up.
I am going to build this one just like the red bull trophy as picture below. This is going to be a lot fun. Most of the parts used are spares parts I have sitting around. I only had to buy the trailing arms and upper links which costed less than $20 total. But I am listing all parts just so anyone who may be interested to do the same.
Complete Parts List - This is truly a budget build if you already own a yeti.
SCTE Wheels - $8
Slash Front Wheels - $8
A set of 4 Proline Trencher M3 - $50
Proline Ford Body - $30
Tamiya Paints Blue and Silver - $14
Red Bull 1/10 Shortcourse Decals - $20
Wraith Upper links Set - $10
Twin Hammer Trailing Arms - $10
Spider Gears and pin to Unlock rear diff - $10
8/18 Beach Bashing Video
https://youtu.be/F7RHsJ7EDuI
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7/22 Track day video
https://youtu.be/X_BOdvvqdr8
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6/27/15 First Run Video
Youtube Link https://youtu.be/E7NOZbJEqtU
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Youtube Video Link : https://youtu.be/u6AR_LteUd8
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