• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Finally - a 1/10 trophy truck built in the axial yeti

Awesome vid. The suspension looks to be working great. I tried 2wd when I bent my stock dogbones- it was a handful. :shock:
 
Awesome vid. The suspension looks to be working great. I tried 2wd when I bent my stock dogbones- it was a handful. :shock:

Yes it is , I have added weight is the rear with the spare tire, bumper and 300g of steel. That helps it with more traction. I like it very much right. Hands down 2wd is much more fun to drive.!
 
Looks awesome, really dig the videos.


What motor, and what spur and pinion combo are you running. 2s or 3s?
 
Joe, I absolutely love this build. So much so, in fact, that I tried to replicate it. I ran into some issues though, and I'm hoping you can shed some light.

I picked up a set of twin hammers lower links and wraith uppers, but my wheelbase is landing 1/2" longer than yours at 345mm (13.5"). I used Hot racing and vanquish links instead of plastic, but I would assume they are the same length, or at least close. I was actually able to switch out the ends on the links and get down to the 330mm (13") you show, but then the sway bars bind up in the rear and prevent full travel.

At any rate, I've tried the exact same body you used, a Raptor Flotek, and a stock Slash body and none of them come close to lining up without needing to trim a lot of the fenders.

My question for you is then, are those literally the only changes you have made, and if so, can you get me eye-to-eye measurements on both the upper and lower links?

Thanks in advance.
 
I ran into some issues though, and I'm hoping you can shed some light.

I picked up a set of twin hammers lower links and wraith uppers, but my wheelbase is landing 1/2" longer than yours at 345mm (13.5"). I used Hot racing and vanquish links instead of plastic, but I would assume they are the same length, or at least close. I was actually able to switch out the ends on the links and get down to the 330mm (13") you show, but then the sway bars bind up in the rear and prevent full travel.

At any rate, I've tried the exact same body you used, a Raptor Flotek, and a stock Slash body and none of them come close to lining up without needing to trim a lot of the fenders.

My question for you is then, are those literally the only changes you have made, and if so, can you get me eye-to-eye measurements on both the upper and lower links?

Thanks in advance.

I'm in the same boat. I'm using Vanquish trailing arms for the Vatera Twin Hammers & Vanquish upper links for the Wraith. I ALSO have a set of VTH plastic trailing arms & Wraith plastic upper links.

The VTH & Vanquish trailing arms are the exact same length eye-to-eye at 120mm, and the Wraith upper links & Vanquish are the exact same at 125mm.

Double & tripple checked them. My wheelbase with the Vanquish bits stands at 340mm, and I need to get it down to 330.

Anyone have any ideas???
:cry:
 
I'm in the same boat. I'm using Vanquish trailing arms for the Vatera Twin Hammers & Vanquish upper links for the Wraith. I ALSO have a set of VTH plastic trailing arms & Wraith plastic upper links.

The VTH & Vanquish trailing arms are the exact same length eye-to-eye at 120mm, and the Wraith upper links & Vanquish are the exact same at 125mm.

Double & tripple checked them. My wheelbase with the Vanquish bits stands at 340mm, and I need to get it down to 330.

Anyone have any ideas???
:cry:


i had the same issue with the sway bars (a bit too long) too but i had only shorten the plastic on the sway bar and it fitted perfect. i will take some picture tonight ans post back
 
Joe, I absolutely love this build. So much so, in fact, that I tried to replicate it. I ran into some issues though, and I'm hoping you can shed some light.

I picked up a set of twin hammers lower links and wraith uppers, but my wheelbase is landing 1/2" longer than yours at 345mm (13.5"). I used Hot racing and vanquish links instead of plastic, but I would assume they are the same length, or at least close. I was actually able to switch out the ends on the links and get down to the 330mm (13") you show, but then the sway bars bind up in the rear and prevent full travel.

At any rate, I've tried the exact same body you used, a Raptor Flotek, and a stock Slash body and none of them come close to lining up without needing to trim a lot of the fenders.

My question for you is then, are those literally the only changes you have made, and if so, can you get me eye-to-eye measurements on both the upper and lower links?

Thanks in advance.

Here is the fix for the sway bar as shown in picture. The body I used wasn't a flotek but just regular raptor body. The I trimmed just a tiny bit more fender in front to allow the bigger tire to clear and the rear fit perfectly like a glove.
Wec6Bhg.png
 
MR.James Knight took the recipe of this yeti trophy and improved it with the rpm tire rack for the rear. This is featured is the December version of the RC car Action magazine.

lNJLHiB.png
 
I ordered the hot racing wraith sway bar set. a bit shorter than any of the yeti offerings. I just had to adjust the rod end links of the sway bar and it works perfectly with the shorter wheelbase. ill post pics when I can.
 
MR.James Knight took the recipe of this yeti trophy and improved it with the rpm tire rack for the rear. This is featured is the December version of the RC car Action magazine.

lNJLHiB.png


I read the article. Definitely recommended for anyone who wants tips on building a yeti trophy truck. This is on my to do list.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I read the article. Definitely recommended for anyone who wants tips on building a yeti trophy truck. This is on my to do list.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Exactly if we give it enough attention axial might just release a conversion kit or a whole new kit for a trophybtruck, I mean the yeti is already 90% there
 
I ordered the hot racing wraith sway bar set. a bit shorter than any of the yeti offerings. I just had to adjust the rod end links of the sway bar and it works perfectly with the shorter wheelbase. ill post pics when I can.

Awesome definitely post pic when u have a chance thanks in advanced
 
That tire rack is a nice feature ;-)

Don't want to hi jack/raid your thread - but you could always go a size bigger with a Yeti trophy truck too. I used an SC8 body on mine. I didn't have any clearing issues and you have to actually lengthen the trailing arms a bit. Just wished, there was more 1:8 scale bodies out there... you can find it in my thread (SC8e Yeti).

Btw: I am planning to take the front wheel drive out too and go 2WD "thumbsup"
 


ill take a few bench pics tonight but this is the only shot I have at the moment.

wraith hot racing sway bar with twin hammers trailing arms fits perfectly.
 
I always wanted a scale trophy truck but I dont have the skills, time and money like other guys who have build theirs from scratch. But I have a Yeti that has been sitting around for sometime. It has been waiting for the perfect parts to show up and I believe I found them. There are only a few simple modification to convert your Axial Yeti into a 1/10 Solid Axle trophy truck. There is more benefit to doing it this way since there already tons of aftermarket support on these parts I can replace any parts broken just like a yeti. Check It out. Part 1 video is up.

I am going to build this one just like the red bull trophy as picture below. This is going to be a lot fun. Most of the parts used are spares parts I have sitting around. I only had to buy the trailing arms and upper links which costed less than $20 total. But I am listing all parts just so anyone who may be interested to do the same.

Complete Parts List - This is truly a budget build if you already own a yeti.
SCTE Wheels - $8
Slash Front Wheels - $8
A set of 4 Proline Trencher M3 - $50
Proline Ford Body - $30
Tamiya Paints Blue and Silver - $14
Red Bull 1/10 Shortcourse Decals - $20
Wraith Upper links Set - $10
Twin Hammer Trailing Arms - $10
Spider Gears and pin to Unlock rear diff - $10

8/18 Beach Bashing Video
https://youtu.be/F7RHsJ7EDuI
z2cv3hCl.jpg


7/22 Track day video
https://youtu.be/X_BOdvvqdr8
hDmpK37.png


6/27/15 First Run Video
Youtube Link https://youtu.be/E7NOZbJEqtU
CcDxlXN.jpg


Youtube Video Link : https://youtu.be/u6AR_LteUd8

nfbbMYnl.png

MAmaDte.png
You get an A+... Awesome job!

Regarding Axial's press release of their new Yeti based trophy truck I give them an F.[emoji12]

Bringing the pain since 1968
 
Back
Top