frame steering servo mount

[meanbgreen]

Here's my prob. I am bottoming out on the steering linkage on up travel of the suspension.

I see alot of different styles of mounts. Is it easy to build your own frame mounted bracket? It seems to me that it would still hit the linkage even if I did do a frame mounted servo.
Next do servos only mount one way? Can I take the stock servo and mount it standin up instead of layin flat? Or would that require a different servo to mount it differently?
Thank you

 

[Rook82]

The servo(s) can be mounted any way you would like. It will not affect their performance in any way. What you may have to do it simply reverse the direction (on the radio) depending on how it is mounted so that turning the wheel left make the rig steer left, etc.

There are plenty of write ups on here on making your own frame mounted steering and what it involves. It can be done with a kit of with stock parts and some fab work. If fabbing your own , you just have to work on it depending on the rigs setup so it clears and works. A lot of factors can come in as to interference with links and such. If your rig is not completely stock then what works for someone with a stock rig may not work for you. Shock length and position, shock travel limiters, link lengths, pinion angle, etc all play into it.

Maybe if you do not have an idea of what to do, then post a pic or two of what is going on and how it is hitting. There are too many variables for someone to tell you what is wrong without seeing the setup. Pictures tell a thousand words type of thing.

 

[C*H*U*D]

I'm assuming you mean the tierod and drag link are hitting each other? I run mine so that they overlap a bit. This allows servo horn to hang over the front of the tierod.

This is a shot of how it's mounted inside:

 

[mudn_1]

If it's like mine the servo arm is hitting the front axle....I've been trying to figure out this one too....its causing flex to limit alot....basically the servo needs to be mounted higher or moved forward I think, but without having to drill/ cut my own bracket, I don't see it working

 

[murdock]

Why couldn't you just use longer screws and spacers to lower the tie rod a bit ?
or turn your c's into the level position ?

 

[meanbgreen]

ah yes, good deal, this is gettin the ol brain waves movin. Chud yer drag link doesn't bottom out on your pitman arm?
I have looked at alot of the build up posts and to me looks like mine is set up for the most part like others with their servo still on the axle. I'll do so more lookin though

 

[C*H*U*D]

Why couldn't you just use longer screws and spacers to lower the tie rod a bit ?
or turn your c's into the level position ?

This is totally possible and all part of tuning your truck. If I felt I needed more clearance, I could go with either of those routes, but here is why I run it the way I do.

1. Lowering the tierod would give more clearance, but it also puts the tierod lower into the rocks and trail obstacles. It's kind of a tradeoff, but I'd rather have it a bit high. The only time it's in the position in the picture is during full compression. During articulation, it stays clear no matter which tire is fully compressed. Since this is a low speed truck, full compression is not an issue.

2. I like a bit of caster in my knuckles. It helps with getting a bite on really steep climbs, and when pulling the truck forward by getting the lower edge of the tire more forward. Compared to my comp trucks, there really isn't that much caster on this one.

Chud yer drag link doesn't bottom out on your pitman arm?

In the pictures above it does....barely. But like I said this is only during full compression. Something this slow moving truck rarely sees. Articulation is not a problem since it can compress either side without the servo horn hitting.

 

[meanbgreen]

cool, yea I can see yours not bein a prob. mine hits with just over a 1/4" left of travel. I reckon I'll keep tweakin see what happens and get to know my ride better
thanks for all the help