Unfortunately, I think you have the exception, not the rule, Burn.
In stock rtr form, there is a ton of "slop".
Yes, it is standard. No, its not desirable.
Yes, you can get it all out of there...and should.
Of course you would like some movement, but not wiggle.
Once you fix the axle and get the major slop out of the axle with the no slop locker, you will then find all new slop at the wheel. The hex adapter is not ideal but its aluminum which is alight. Make sure the grub screw is tight!
The plastic wheel is where much of the remainder lies. The plastic hex mount is a huge culprit.
If you replace the wheels you will then notice the bearing play and the loose flange pins on the C-Hubs.
I have found it with VP, STRC and HR.
If you dont notice it, you probably just dont care and thats cool"thumbsup" Its really not affecting anything. It just bugs certain people more than some.
...me, to no end:evil:
There is a way to shim the flange pin/washer that hold the c-hub to the Knuckle using Teflon tape. It wont inhibit the free rotation but isolates the flange head from rattle and "extra" up/down movement. Wrap the flange head once, pull it tight and give it a couple wraps.. around the head only!
Then use a black marker to color the tape.
The Teflon tape allows it to move and not bind but takes up the slop.
I have tried to file down the flange pins but the c-hub is actually larger than
the Knuckle by over a mm. If you try to bend the hub it will break, and or pinch the knuckle.
I only have this problem with the driver side set?
rt. side is perfect!
