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Futaba 4PL Setup, Tips, Tricks & Help

The dt 4 switch stopped working for me. i moved up to dt 3 and it works.(thanks for the good videos harley).the dt 4 will work when i push it back but not forward.anyone have any ideas how to get it to work
 
Harley,

I've had the 4PL on my truck all week and love it. My VP dig unit showed up today and I have it installed. I have it plugged in to the 4th channel and it works with SW2.SLD slide switch. It's hitting all three positions perfectly.

I believe you said most guy's are setting up the dig on DT3 or DT4 which is what I'd like to do also. You were right about the slide switch being a pain to use while driving.;-)

I just can't seem to figure out how to do that? Also, being that I'm plugged in to the 4th channel isn't the slide button channel 3 by default?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
The first post has instructions on how to program a 3 position switch. All you have to do is follow those instructions.

Harley,

I've had the 4PL on my truck all week and love it. My VP dig unit showed up today and I have it installed. I have it plugged in to the 4th channel and it works with SW2.SLD slide switch. It's hitting all three positions perfectly.

I believe you said most guy's are setting up the dig on DT3 or DT4 which is what I'd like to do also. You were right about the slide switch being a pain to use while driving.;-)

I just can't seem to figure out how to do that? Also, being that I'm plugged in to the 4th channel isn't the slide button channel 3 by default?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
It took me a couple tries but it's dialed in now!

Thanks for the help Harley"thumbsup"

By the way, lovin this radio..............
 
Hopefully I don't miss anything here.

The 4PL RX's will handle your servos just fine.

Additionally RX's are also much cheaper than the Spec RX's.

Yes both dual ESC and 4WS can be ran at same time.

As for the 3PK, it uses a different technology called FASST like the 4PK instead of the FHSS that the 4PL runs. So you couldn't match them up.

Well I picked up a brand new 4PL today from the model shop. And unbelievably, I think its an older firmware model! The serial number starts B0100, so I presume I'm very unlucky here, and can't program this transmitter like your videos?
I seem to be only able to program the grip push switch to activate/toggle through the various dig modes, or for the various 4WS modes. I cant run both 4WS and dual ESC mixing simultaneously.

Is there any other way? Or do i need to get this radio updated/replaced?
 
Has anyone come up with a drop down steering wheel option for this radio? I know initially nothing was available, but is that still the case?
 
New question, looking for help.

When I turn on my 4pl, the third channel is always at 100%. It has done this for a year now, but it never really was an issue until I just started using the 3rd channel for winch control. I like to use either DT3 or DT4 for my winch control, and it will do regardless of which of those two switches I use for CH3. Anyone know why it is doing this, or how to fix it?
 
Figured i would share how i did my lanyard strap.
First i went to my local hobby lobby (arts and crafts store here in WA) and picked up a roll of wax covered string and a bag of beads.
Here is how i did it:
1. On the controller, drill a hole using a 5/64th drill bit right in the middle of the seem.
knoja-48254-albums3357-44864.png


2. Cut a length of the string (i used 3" and cut the excess off). Make a loop and tie a knot to the desired loop size. Fish the string through a bead and tie another knot so that the bead stays in between the two knots. Cut any excess string off. (Here is what mine looks like)
knoja-48254-albums3357-44867.jpg


3. Next, remove the (I believe) 7 screws and crack the case open. it does not need to be pulled completely apart, just enough so that you can insert the bead into the cavity where you drilled the hole.

4. Once the bead is in the cavity, ensure that the string/loop is positioned where the hole is and reassembly the controller case.
knoja-48254-albums3357-44868.jpg


knoja-48254-albums3357-44865.jpg


5. Enjoy!!! "thumbsup"

This is pretty secure. I swung the controller around over my head to see if it would give. Disassembled to see if there was any wear to the string or if the knots started to come loose. It looked the same as it did the day i put it in there.

If it makes you happier, you could super glue the knots so that the stay put.

As you can see i tried to other method where you drill two holes on either side!! :shock:
 
The first post has instructions on how to program a 3 position switch. All you have to do is follow those instructions.

Harley, I am a long time member but very seldom post, I just wanted to say thank you for all the great writeups you do on here. Without your input a lot of us would be up the creek without a paddle. Again thank you.
 
I just finished reading all 104 pages.(It was a slow day at the office!) And I would like to say a big thank you to Harley and all involved in #1 getting this out there, and #2 making the switch to Futaba an easy one. As I have been a Spectrum user for a long time.

I have one issue that I cannot figure out since the change-over.
Here is my set up:
FXR x 2
HiTec 7980
HEYok no Brainer BEC set to 7.2V
4PL
Novak 45t x 2

Since making the switch over, my steering is sluggish at times. If you move the Tx wheel left or right slowly, it goes extremely slow, and barely makes the return to center, just sitting on the bench, or on the test pile.
If I move the wheel quickly it works fine, but if I stop the movement at full lock, it again starts the slow down to return to center. I have tried the steering on both normal & high, same issue.
Any insights?
 
Ok I have a set up question that revolves around 4ws. I just got this radio and I was using a hacked GT3B and so far I like the GT3B better but it doesn't like crowds. So I now have this 4PL.

Channel uses on the 4pl are:
Ch1 front steering
Ch2 esc
Ch3 rear steer
Ch4 shift servo (2-speed trans)

So in dealing with the 4ws.

The SW1 button scrolls through the different steering options fine BUT is there any way to get the DT-4 button to bypass the SW setting and go straight to front steering only when pushed forward and when pulled back to the middle it goes back to the 4ws setting of the SW1. Pull it back again and it does rear only.

I don't know if I explained that right.

Using the GT3B the CH3 (SW1) button does 4ws and crab only and the CH3-trim (DT4) switches to front or rear only. It's nice and quick.

Can this be done on the 4PL? If so please tell me how.
 
Coming from non-proportional dual FXR's in a XR10 rig, I now have a 4PL and have set it up as per Harley's video - all good except I don't think I have rear the esc going up to 120%, only 100%.

All settings on the 4PL are correct, ie it shows 120% on the screen but I can't detect a difference in wheel speed between 100% vs 120%. I've set my increments to 20%, so I go from 0-20-40-80-100-120%.

FXR's are calibrated properly with the rear throttle set at 100%.

Any help appreciated!
 
Radio literature mentions a Model Clear, but I can't find Clear in the book or on the radio. Want to delete an obsolete model.

If it's Reset, I found that, but wasn't sure how to use it and it's something I didn't want to just screw around with.:) My Model screen is showing different model names at the top and center of the screen and I don't want to delete the wrong one.
 
Just installed 2brxls, with Holmes hold off and Db set to 70%, I'm running 13t team crawl masters and the rear doesn't seem to have any brake at all it just coasts to a stop, the front is working fine. Any ideas? Thanks-Steve
 
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