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GarlicBronco's H10 Optic Build Thread

GarlicBronco

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Jun 6, 2025
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33
Location
Gilroy, Ca
I have done some searching in this group and others. I am new to crawlers but not new to RC. I am gathering parts for an Optic build. I am learning that there is more to servos in these things than in my other stuff (b7/sct410 2.0 ect). School me on them. Are we not connecting right to the receiver like in other builds? There are servos with their own battery or on a splitter? I know opinions are like..... well you know the saying every one has one. What are some of the most used ones so that i can do proper research on them. If it matters i plan on using the HW 2-1 fusion 2300 and a fly sky receiver with my nb4+. The servo is really the only thing I've had hang ups on picking out so far.


Thanks in advance for the time/info.
 
The reason for not running straight from the rx is it is dependent on the bec from your esc, some of which are limited to 5v and low amps so it does not make for a powerful servo. Even the esc with higher voltage max out at 8.4v (that I have seen).

So you can run a direct power servo straight off the battery which if you are using 3s or 4s batteries can easily give you more power. Though I have found direct power servos are more expensive so...

There are some powerful servos that are powered normally through the rx such as Hi-Tech servos, though I have not had personal experience with them (yet)

Personally, I like Holmes hobbies for high end direct power and the blue ds3235pro off Amazon for cheaper builds that run off Bec/rx power.

My nsdrc direct power servos are nice and smooth when they work but are not as powerful and I have had poor customer service and the gears lose teeth and leave me stranded on drives too many times to personally recommend them. Others on here have had better luck.
 
AGFrc servos are a major supplier for many popular makers and can buy direct or through Amazon (they have an official store). There is not much difference between what you put in your race trucks; you are just looking for more stall torque, and still a quick speed. I have Savox, Holmes, AGFrc, NDSRC, Reefs, cheapie blue and red Amazon specials. They all have their places, you kinda pay for what you get. Just remember nothing lasts for ever even when treated well.
 
The reason for not running straight from the rx is it is dependent on the bec from your esc, some of which are limited to 5v and low amps so it does not make for a powerful servo. Even the esc with higher voltage max out at 8.4v (that I have seen).

So you can run a direct power servo straight off the battery which if you are using 3s or 4s batteries can easily give you more power. Though I have found direct power servos are more expensive so...

There are some powerful servos that are powered normally through the rx such as Hi-Tech servos, though I have not had personal experience with them (yet)

Personally, I like Holmes hobbies for high end direct power and the blue ds3235pro off Amazon for cheaper builds that run off Bec/rx power.

My nsdrc direct power servos are nice and smooth when they work but are not as powerful and I have had poor customer service and the gears lose teeth and leave me stranded on drives too many times to personally recommend them. Others on here have had better luck.


thanks for the info. i guess im still trying to wrap my head around how you implement this

im figuring out now, that these specific high power servos will come with 2 plug ends on them 1 to the RX and 1 to a power source

are people running a split from the battery to the servo or are they running 2 separate packs?
 
You could run two packs but since I run my trucks on 3s I simply put a jst pigtail for the servo on the esc side of the battery connection plugs. That way all components stay wired up in the truck and you only need one battery.

Check out the Holmes hobbies esc for some examples that already have the jst pigtail for the servo installed. You'll see a little red plug coming off some wires from the xt60 battery plug.

Also plenty of space to solder the pigtail onto the xt60 plug along side the main wires.
 
thanks for the info. i guess im still trying to wrap my head around how you implement this

im figuring out now, that these specific high power servos will come with 2 plug ends on them 1 to the RX and 1 to a power source

are people running a split from the battery to the servo or are they running 2 separate packs?
2 options.

Start looking through Optic Build threads as more than a few have a direct powered servo. Most of the build threads we well loaded with details and pictures/videos. Other builds will also have info on direct power servos.

The other option is youtube build vids, sometimes watching is easier to learn from.

read read read up on direct power, more to get familiar than any potential limitations. There aren't many. but some.

The HW should go to 8.4v on its internal BEC.
With that you could run a pretty powerful 8.4v capable servo with way more torque.

And Torque is the name of the game for steering servos in a crawler. the more the better.
 
2 options.

Start looking through Optic Build threads as more than a few have a direct powered servo. Most of the build threads we well loaded with details and pictures/videos. Other builds will also have info on direct power servos.

The other option is youtube build vids, sometimes watching is easier to learn from.

read read read up on direct power, more to get familiar than any potential limitations. There aren't many. but some.

The HW should go to 8.4v on its internal BEC.
With that you could run a pretty powerful 8.4v capable servo with way more torque.

And Torque is the name of the game for steering servos in a crawler. the more the better.
yeah, thanks for more info


i think ive got my head wrapped around it and just have to order some parts
 
Ya its not hard. Basically the Signal wire goes to the Rx S pin (signal pin), and the + and - power wires will either be soldered directly to the ESC battery connector, or a y connector your battery and esc plugs into.
I would solder a Male JST onto the battery connector so you can plug the servo power wires into that.
Another option is there are connectors that will plug into the batteries balance plug with a JST on the other end.
 
alright ladys and gents

stuffs been ordered, lots of it showing up today, getting excited to put it together

IF YOU THINK IM MISSING SOMETHING PLEASE LET ME KNOW also any other goodies or gadgets

parts list

Kit
fusion pro 2300
NSD rs800 v2
flysky fbr8 water proof to go with my nb4+
got some treal knuckles and servo mount and the vanquish brass hubs in 475
incision steel drive shafts
rear sway bar

injora 1.9's with brass rings
proline trepadors
proline dual stage inserts

hoovo 3s 2200 packs

i also have some high clearance links coming from hardcore
some battery door clip deals from dsm offroad


all that will be part 1.

it is going to take me a little bit to put the kit together as i will be painting the cage/chassis and also the wheels


pics to come

also future addons in planning: Whip Light, Light Bar, Body Panels, bump stops, steering links, inner fender, rear 1/4 panels, Sliders, scale goodies maybe?


also have to figure out shocks as ive seen lots of guys have issues with the stock ones
 
after reading so many comments and posts about people struggling with the VP kit/rtr shocks i decided i wouldnt waste the time on them

ordered a set of Element RC Factory Team 10x90mm Enduro Shock Set Part#: ASC42078

i do wish they had aluminum caps with bleeder screws tho. ill have to find some that work
 
after reading so many comments and posts about people struggling with the VP kit/rtr shocks i decided i wouldnt waste the time on them

ordered a set of Element RC Factory Team 10x90mm Enduro Shock Set Part#: ASC42078

i do wish they had aluminum caps with bleeder screws tho. ill have to find some that work
These fit, but they're sold out everywhere I looked on a quick search:

SCT156A01 - Ez Bleeder Shock Caps 1:10 (2) | Hot Racing
 
These fit, but they're sold out everywhere I looked on a quick search:

SCT156A01 - Ez Bleeder Shock Caps 1:10 (2) | Hot Racing
thanks for the link, i havent really searched yet but that should help knowing that there is some sort of option out there ish.

Just my .02, you should use a nylon, delrin, poly, teflon (etc.) bushing between metal on metal with shock caps.
ive got metal on metal with my b7 and sct 410 2.0 shocks with out any issues but when i end up with some ill take note of this and keep an eye on it. appreciate the .02
 
new hood/door pannels/roof showed up from cliff mccrawl, who is fantastic to work with and the stuff looks really nice

waiting for rear 1/4s to show up then i can paint everything all at once. see how bad i can make it look lol

also waiting on links from hardcore
 
Looks like a good start. You'll probably be waiting on the links for a bit. 4+ weeks is not uncommon, but he does good work. Just have to be patient.

For powering that servo.... If you can solder, you can buy some JST connectors with wires on Amazon for pretty cheap. Just solder them to the battery leads on the ESC. Otherwise, Reefs and other companies sell XT60 connectors with JSTs soldered on.
 
Looks like a good start. You'll probably be waiting on the links for a bit. 4+ weeks is not uncommon, but he does good work. Just have to be patient.

For powering that servo.... If you can solder, you can buy some JST connectors with wires on Amazon for pretty cheap. Just solder them to the battery leads on the ESC. Otherwise, Reefs and other companies sell XT60 connectors with JSTs soldered on.
yep, ordered jun 19th and havent heard a word a little frustrating but so it goes
 
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