Getting Smashed at the Fox and Bull (my Bully v2 build) lots of pics :)

[Foxy42]

what shocks are those?

are they the 2660(3.5"?)

whats your wheelbase now?

the rig looks really good, but i obviously want to try to help with any pointers i can.

it looks like your shocks are actually mounted in the cab mounting holes?
the truck looks pretty tall, which leads me to believe you have a longer shock or your wheelbase is short.


i am excited to hear how it drives for you."thumbsup"

I can't tell you how grateful I am for the offer of help, I'll take any I can get, thanks very much in advance.

Indeed, you correctly observed that the front shocks are mounted to the cab holes. There are two reasons for this...

Firstly, the shocks are the 100mm versions. Since stock, they have had a longer rod end added to clear the battery tray and servo mount, as well as having a 10mm fuel tubing limiter inserted internally. This has resulted in a shock about 97-98mm eye to eye. All 4 shocks are currently the same overall length.

The upper front links even after a minor extension by just unscrewing the rod ends a little, still allow my front axle to sag back a little (a little natural caster). I actually find this desirable, as it puts the all important heavy front axle as low as possible, however, this creates two clearance issues...the NCD battery mount...though its not actually the fault of the mount, its the fault of the fat traxxas stock springs. Basically, if I stand the shock up any more, the spring cup will be in contact with the battery. This will be solved with mini T springs and cups. On the other side, I have the opposite problem, the shocks 'barely' clear the servo mount because they are laying down so flat (there is a little contact at full articulation, but nothing serious), so that side actually needs lifting a little. My plan for this is to further limit the front shocks, perhaps an other 5mm (15mm total spacer), then move the upper mount back to the last of the intended shock mounting holes, and move the lower mount up to the top of the axle mount (currently on the lower screw hole).

Another alternative would be to try some upper front links that are about 6mm longer than the stock Switch (for Bullyv1) links, which would rotate the battery tray (and the servo unfortunately) higher.

I didn't realise I was still tall, I thought I got the ride height about right. The wheelbase is about 12.25 inches as it sits, and about 12.5 fully compressed.

The rear works flawlessly setup like this. I'll take it out around the yard today/tomorrow, and post a vid, as long as you don't laugh at my pathetic crawling skills lol.

 

[Tomy]

A 90mm shock eye to eye would help with many of the issues you have. Most MOA chassis nowadays are designed for shocks this length.

You would probably benefit from longer front uppers. Instead of having your front axle tilt back a little you will more likely want it to tilt forward just a bit. Using a Traxxas Jato rod end at one end of your front uppers will probably give you the needed extra length.

I'll post pics of a fix to servo mount clearance issues later today.

 

[Foxy42]

Yeh, I've already pointed out a couple times the upper links are a touch short. Chaotic, any chance of some new uppers about 5mm longer than the old bully ones? Maybe I'll just try longer rod ends... The rest of the links are pretty good imo. The shocks are totally experimental, I will try all kinds of things. I took it around the living room just now though, and I must say it works very very well. Probably testament to the chassis and axles that they work that well DESPITE my setup rather than because of it. lol.

A friend of mine is going to lend me a set of 90mm gmade g-transition internally sprung shocks to try, should be a laugh. I'd like to try an internally sprung shock for the various advantages they offer, I just hope I can get enough travel out of them. Still, like I say, ongoing experimenting.

The servo mount is great, no issues with it at all.

 

[cabron]

the jato rod ends (traxxas 5525) are .75 inches from end of rod to eye and a total of 1 " long
if you are using the revo rod ends (traxxas 5347) you might add about .5 to each rod

these are for 4 mm rods (or a bit larger)

 

[Chaotic Crawlers]

your wheelbase should not change .25" from compression to full droop.

unfortunately, i see people have this problem all the time.
this is caused from having too long of shocks which is making your links not parallel to the ground. this causes your suspension to essentially scissor when your shocks extend all the way out. ( i hope this makes sense?)


i would very very highly reccomend you not use those gmade shocks or the current shocks you have right now.
do yourself a favor and get yourself a quality set of 3.5" shocks like the traxxas 2660 with the rod end mod or the axial icon shocks.

I can promise you that once you lower that belly with a shorter overall shock and mount them in the correct holes, your suspension will not scissor and extend so much on compression.
i tell people this all the time, but i get a lot of people that refuse to take this advice. they all have the exact same problem that you have with your suspension. after they switch to what i tell them to, they call me a genius(which I am not)"thumbsup"

try to achieve a 2.75" - 3.125" ride height. i personally prefer to have mine closer to 2.75" with a maximum belly clearance of 3.25' - 3.5" maximum.

once you get that in check, you can adjust the wheelbase with a jato rod end if necessary, but i doubt you will need to.


hope this helps.

 

[Foxy42]

It helps a lot, thanks. I actually anticipated this and have already ordered yesterday the 3.5s and some other bits and pieces. Which is the best cap mod?

 

[Chaotic Crawlers]

It helps a lot, thanks. I actually anticipated this and have already ordered yesterday the 3.5s and some other bits and pieces. Which is the best cap mod?

the usual cap mod is similar to what you've already done except you screw a 3mm rod end directly to the cap. your cap mod on your current shocks would definitely work as well.

i also forgot to add in my last post... space your shocks off of your chassis a little. i typically use a 6mm spacer to do this."thumbsup"