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GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

is there a thread on this mod is it the black voltage regulator in the control that needs to be replace the guy giving it to me has a 3 s lipo hooked up but did not do anything else will it damage the radio/ WHERE can i get this mod for the 3s lipo swap thanks


If I remember correctly since its been so long the vr and vr mod were discussed over on rc tech. Basically just un solder old one and install new one. Requires a fine tip and quality iron. Takes about 20 mins start to finish
including tear down and re assembly.

Again covered ob rc tech was the need for it. Stock you are running the risk with 3s for regulator to over heat and melt. Really cheap and easy to just do it. There were pics in beginning of ones melted pretty bad from prolonged use and heat damage.
 
I'm not planning on charging it through the remote, I was going to take out the LiPO and charge it separately so I don't need the voltage regulator then? Just connect the LiPO and I'm good?
LosiKid or others may know more, but it also sounds like a bad potential just USING 3S LiPO with the stock VR. It's not really suited to the extra voltage, notice Meatwad stated he never FULLY CHARGED his 3S LiPO in his "stock VR" hacked GT3B.;-)
 
im not plan on charging it through the remote i was going to take out the lipo and charge it separtely so I dont need the voltage regulator then? just connect the lipo and im good?

I wouldn't either, mainly for the ability to balance. Again I'm not expert but there wasn't an issue when the lipos were kept at 11.8vdc or so and under in my experiences.

LosiKid or others may know more, but it also sounds like a bad potential just USING 3S LiPO with the stock VR. It's not really suited to the extra voltage, notice Meatwad stated he never FULLY CHARGED his 3S LiPO in his "stock VR" hacked GT3B.;-)

Precisely, my train of thought was that each AA is ~1.5vdc so it would be ~12vdc total with fresh alkalines. So ~11.8vdc has worked for awhile now on some 3s1800mah20c lipos, that fit the batt compartment well after ripping out the AA cradle btw :mrgreen:
 
I wouldn't either, mainly for the ability to balance. Again I'm not expert but there wasn't an issue when the lipos were kept at 11.8vdc or so and under in my experiences.



Precisely, my train of thought was that each AA is ~1.5vdc so it would be ~12vdc total with fresh alkalines. So ~11.8vdc has worked for awhile now on some 3s1800mah20c lipos, that fit the batt compartment well after ripping out the AA cradle btw :mrgreen:

Well you are correct with voltage but the amount the voltage drops in use for the aa batteries vs the Lipo is quite different.

The vr is cheap and easy.... I've seen the pics of melted ones.
 
Well you are correct with voltage but the amount the voltage drops in use for the aa batteries vs the Lipo is quite different.

The vr is cheap and easy.... I've seen the pics of melted ones.

Very true the voltage sag is quite different, lipos have almost none compared to inferior battery chemistries. As my understanding goes, a voltage regulator is just that.. a device that maintains a constant voltage. But in the case of this specific vr mod, allows the use of a lower voltage and longer battery life. The current draw of the radio is on the order of ~500ma, a simple load for a 3s1800mah20c pack.. along with about a month of battery life. My experience has been that I've had no ill effects/heat/omgwtfbbq type action from my 3b.
 
running a stock vr with backlight off, the current drain is ~110ma with the new VR its going to be ~60ma

Right now with backlight on, the current drain is ~130ma and the new VR will be ~75ma

Testing was done at 11.4V

The new VR consumes less power, generates little to no heat, and has a wider voltage operating range.

Running the stock vr at 12 volts for a long period of time will generate alot of heat.
 
ok so i got a qustion... i bought the 6ch rx for my gt3b.. now if i try to plug the esc into ch2 its acts like a ch1 for steering.. like the steering wheel controls ch2 also.. how do i fix this... and if i get that fixed how can i run this list of crap lol

Ch1 CMS servo on scx10
Ch2 Esc
Ch3 Front winch
Ch4 Rear winch
Ch5 Truck lights on/off

plain how to instructions would be great.. lol
 
ok so i got a qustion... i bought the 6ch rx for my gt3b.. now if i try to plug the esc into ch2 its acts like a ch1 for steering.. like the steering wheel controls ch2 also.. how do i fix this... and if i get that fixed how can i run this list of crap lol

Ch1 CMS servo on scx10
Ch2 Esc
Ch3 Front winch
Ch4 Rear winch
Ch5 Truck lights on/off

plain how to instructions would be great.. lol

You turned on track/boat mixing :ror: You want to assign DIG to channel 3, 4, 5, or 6. NOT channel 1
 
ooookay, not sure what i did. I have my bronco on either model 0 or 1, don't remember which at the moment, with the name BRO. Then the rig i am building for my dad was on 3 models up from that leaving room for the two rigs i am going to build next. I just got my rig re dialed in tonight and then did some work on my dads truck. needed to center his servo, grabbed the 3b, turned it on, select model, started to roll through as i was walking back to the bench, stumbled on an air hose and hit some button on accident. Now i can't find my rigs entry and when i turn my rig on it goes wide open like the trims are all messed up. on the display i can select model 1 and the name is M01, roll to the right and it goes up. roll the the left and the model goes to zero and the name is M62, another notch to the left and I get model 2 and M62%. what did I do?? did i some how reset it??? or am i in some odd menu?????
 
ooookay, not sure what i did. I have my bronco on either model 0 or 1, don't remember which at the moment, with the name BRO. Then the rig i am building for my dad was on 3 models up from that leaving room for the two rigs i am going to build next. I just got my rig re dialed in tonight and then did some work on my dads truck. needed to center his servo, grabbed the 3b, turned it on, select model, started to roll through as i was walking back to the bench, stumbled on an air hose and hit some button on accident. Now i can't find my rigs entry and when i turn my rig on it goes wide open like the trims are all messed up. on the display i can select model 1 and the name is M01, roll to the right and it goes up. roll the the left and the model goes to zero and the name is M62, another notch to the left and I get model 2 and M62%. what did I do?? did i some how reset it??? or am i in some odd menu?????

sorry to say but i think you may have wiped all your settings , if you have not got any of your model names you put in . ? what you describe is how the radio is new or after re flash
 
How did I manage that? any thoughts? I figured such was the case, luckily it is only two rigs and one was going to be redone.

Sent from my RM-845_nam_vzw_100 using Board Express
 
How did I manage that? any thoughts? I figured such was the case, luckily it is only two rigs and one was going to be redone.

Sent from my RM-845_nam_vzw_100 using Board Express


"To err is human...to truly "F-up" requires a computer...."
Guess you proved that.
No, I have no real clue how though...sorry. Glad it was only 2 models. I think.;-)
 
Got her back up and running, ready for the weekend now. Lets hope I don't do that again.

Sent from my RM-845_nam_vzw_100 using Board Express
 
sorry maybe you already had one I just assume It works fine on mines...

Thanks for replying my post, yes I use Castle BEC 10 A . I just dont have the guts to set my servo to 7.4 worrying that it will fry/explode or something :shock:. So you saying its ok to set the servo to 7.4V using CC bec and stock GT3C receiver ? any electronic layout link to your setup ?

thanks in advance.
 
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