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GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

Current is 0.6.1

Shouldn't need to change deadband. But then again I don't use servo hardware to control my winches.
Normally I would agree but on ch2 it works perfectly while on ch3 it chatters. It holds position and be pulled by hand, but it constantly chatters and heats the motor up. Since it works on ch2, I have taken the pot out of the circuit, and I can trim it out till it is ran deadband is the only variable left that I can think of.

Sent from my SM-T520 using Tapatalk
 
When you are talking about "dead band" in the case of the winch, adjusting the transmitter won't get you what you are wanting. What you really want is for the winch to not respond to a wider range of servo swing or be tolerant of a larger error of servo position. All you can do from the transmitter end is tell it to stay steady in the middle of the servo range to tell the winch to stop. Using the servo amplifier for a winch control, it is constantly comparing where the servo position pot (yes, I know you swapped out the pot for two resistors) with the servo position signal from the transmitter. That servo amp is trying really hard to keep the servo signal aligned with the position pot. Any super small change in voltage or temperature and it will detect that as a movement it has to correct and tell the motor to turn. The odds are not stacked in your favor to use this as a winch control.

That was just a long winded way to tell you that there isn't a "dead band" adjustment on a transmitter that will help you. You can only try and keep on top of the trim adjustment whenever you see the winch move when it should't be.
 
Or I'll help you out since it won't seem like al is being bias or sales pitching........

Best bet is to dump the servo board and go with heyok 4 amp controler and be done. "thumbsup"




When you are talking about "dead band" in the case of the winch, adjusting the transmitter won't get you what you are wanting. What you really want is for the winch to not respond to a wider range of servo swing or be tolerant of a larger error of servo position. All you can do from the transmitter end is tell it to stay steady in the middle of the servo range to tell the winch to stop. Using the servo amplifier for a winch control, it is constantly comparing where the servo position pot (yes, I know you swapped out the pot for two resistors) with the servo position signal from the transmitter. That servo amp is trying really hard to keep the servo signal aligned with the position pot. Any super small change in voltage or temperature and it will detect that as a movement it has to correct and tell the motor to turn. The odds are not stacked in your favor to use this as a winch control.

That was just a long winded way to tell you that there isn't a "dead band" adjustment on a transmitter that will help you. You can only try and keep on top of the trim adjustment whenever you see the winch move when it should't be.
 
I'm going to bed now or I would post my template....... layout should be back somewhere in these pages. I used d/r for winch and ch 3 trim for steering in 20% no long holds
Is this the one you meant JokersWild? Does this template work in the newest version?

 
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I flashed my first GT3B tx and everything went great, works fine.

So I bought a GT3C and flashed it. The software said the flashing was successful, so I unplugged everything and turned the radio on - nothing - totally dead.

I bought another GT3B, flashed it, software said successful, unplugged everything, turned the radio back on - nothing - dead radio.

On the 3C, the charge light come on when I plug in the usb cable, but no life on the radio.

What could be happening here?
 
I flashed my first GT3B tx and everything went great, works fine.

So I bought a GT3C and flashed it. The software said the flashing was successful, so I unplugged everything and turned the radio on - nothing - totally dead.

I bought another GT3B, flashed it, software said successful, unplugged everything, turned the radio back on - nothing - dead radio.

On the 3C, the charge light come on when I plug in the usb cable, but no life on the radio.

What could be happening here?

You need to open the firmware file before pressing program
 
Normally I would agree but on ch2 it works perfectly while on ch3 it chatters. It holds position and be pulled by hand, but it constantly chatters and heats the motor up. Since it works on ch2, I have taken the pot out of the circuit, and I can trim it out till it is ran deadband is the only variable left that I can think of.

Sent from my SM-T520 using Tapatalk

Its because of your servo board. You need an actual winch controller. Such as the ones heyOK sales
 
Hi there..going through all the thread...i got problem to assign ch4 ..5 ...and 6..cannot change the channel..seem l8ke it only have 3 ch only event flashed it wwith new 0.6.1...but...all the dig...4ws...3 position is available...just cannot used more than 3ch..im also used 6ch receiver...plsss ..how to activate the extra channel?
 
So my computer crashed a bit ago and re dl everything to hack more radios........

I'm having issues austin. Radio beeps........ programs in and when I run program it thinks for a bit and then says error.

Green light flashing on card......... then red light goes on on card.
 
Ran into a problem with a new HobbyWing Quickrun 860 for my Clod. with my hacked GT-3B (6.1) the ESC would not respond to the trigger. :Using the FlySky 6 channel receiver. Tried with a 3 channel receiver, still no response. Put the ESC on channel 1 and it responded well to the steering input. Tried the ESC on an old AM radio and worked perfectly.

I was getting stymied. The trims were zeroed out on the 3B and the endpoints 100%.

So I tried my GT-3C and it worked but reversed, despite the channel being normal. Reversed the channel on the 3C and the ESC worked fine.

Slightly inspired, I reversed the channel (2) on the Hacked 3B and voila! the ESC worked fine, calibrated fine.

Seems the ESC won't see or recognize the signal on a forward set channel on the hacked 3B when uncalibrated.

I assume other ESC's may have this issue. So before giving up or condemning your receiver, try reversing the throttle channel before pulling your hair out.

Also, thanks to this site and LosiKid's posts, I have added lighting using channels 5 and 6 for light control. The programming seems complicated at first, but turned out to be relatively easy to get the momentary pulse I needed. My D/R switch now controls Roll Bar lights on D/R (-) and 2 revolving lights on D/R (+). Makes the GT-3B a real bargain to be able to do this.

I also added the improved voltage regulator as well as the steering handle bearing.

Thanks for all the great information.
 
Ran into a problem with a new HobbyWing Quickrun 860 for my Clod. with my hacked GT-3B (6.1) the ESC would not respond to the trigger. :Using the FlySky 6 channel receiver. Tried with a 3 channel receiver, still no response. Put the ESC on channel 1 and it responded well to the steering input. Tried the ESC on an old AM radio and worked perfectly.

I was getting stymied. The trims were zeroed out on the 3B and the endpoints 100%.

So I tried my GT-3C and it worked but reversed, despite the channel being normal. Reversed the channel on the 3C and the ESC worked fine.

Slightly inspired, I reversed the channel (2) on the Hacked 3B and voila! the ESC worked fine, calibrated fine.

Seems the ESC won't see or recognize the signal on a forward set channel on the hacked 3B when uncalibrated.

I assume other ESC's may have this issue. So before giving up or condemning your receiver, try reversing the throttle channel before pulling your hair out.

This is common with many esc's and radio's.
 
A lot has changed since 1990.....been catching up....the 2.4 ghx stuff is so much lighter and better than the old stuff. It is amazing to me how small the electronics have become....Really great progress with cost and functionality. I am still amazed at people like you who move the industry forward too....Thanks
 
Is there a way to use a plane/heli esc with this remote? I have a gt3-c flashed for my wraith but I just got an air boat which I'm trying to get going.
When I turn it all on it starts at half throttle. I need to go full reverse to stop the blades.
Any help would be great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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