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Have tech questions? Will answer.

I got a sanwa m12s today for my racing buggy. Will the shv500v2 be compatible with the fast response or do I need to reduce or modify it? Sorry this spektrum technology is all new to me

The SHV500 runs fine in normal and SHR modes on the M12, that is what I run on at least 2 of my trucks. I never used the SSR mode because it supposedly can cause excess heat in non-SSR compatible servos and SHR mode is pretty damn responsive already.

Sanwa says “The M12's SSR signal has a 2600us period, a center position of 300us and the extremes are at 50us and 550us”, I don’t know what that means in comparison to most servos but I’m sure it means something to JRH with regards to using the SHV500.
 
You have avc enabled in the receiver, thats what the twitching is, its designed to correct your steering while racing, to disable it you ad a second bind plug to the receiver while binding or go into avc settings on the remote and set them all to zero but do not disable avc on the remote. Most people prefer to disable it while binding.
Thank you for your input, I really appreciate it and I think you hit the nail on the head. I will look into this fix tomorrow. Thanks again to all of you who helped me

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John, performance difference between your trailmaster pro 2700 vs Slate 1900?
I know Kv diff, 2 pole vs 4pole.
Geared the same on 3s?


Hang up and Drive
 
John, I have found a thread where you discussed the difference between copper and silver brushes but I haven't been able to find anything discussing standup VS laydown brushes. Is it just a case of narrower segments on the commutator or is there more to it?
 
Totally out-of-left-field thought here...

When is someone gonna come out with a odometer feature for R/Cs?

One that does scale mileage?

It'd just be for scale freaks, but I imagine it could be fun for endurance races and/or things like gathering information on component life...

I'd think it would be relatively easy to program in some of these newer fancier ESCs... or maybe in one of the newer fancier radios.

You'd likely have to set it up like you do for bicycle odometers - plug in the diameter of your tires, etc.

I personally think it would be a value-added feature - but I'm finishing up my 3rd energy drink and have been up since 4AM... :roll:
 
Totally out-of-left-field thought here...

When is someone gonna come out with a odometer feature for R/Cs?

One that does scale mileage?

Could you calculate this from information in the esc log file? I have never used the log file myself to see what info is there.

They make GPS trackers that would do this not super accurate though.

If you know raspberry pi you could probably make one with headphones and a magnet strategically placed.
 
I think Durok was looking for “scale” mileage, not actual mileage. Although, the scale mileage could be fairly easily extrapolated using the actual mileage data. My take on this would be to use a GPS (like the Garmin I use for my MTB rides), and then create an Excel sheet with the appropriate formulas in place to get the desired “scale” data. The other cool feature provided by the GPS would feet of ascent per run. I track my MTB rides this way using Garmin and an Excel sheet. Date, Ride Time, Mileage, Total Ascent, Calories burned, etc. All this data then totals to yearly totals columns for each. In terms of the parts durability and total time and mileage on parts, this could be a cool way to traxk it. BTW - unlike Durok, i’m on my 3rd beer, not energy drink, so if this post is convoluted, take it up with Lagunitas!:lmao:
 
Scale mileage is simply a calculated number based on actual mileage. GPS is going to be the most accurate method of determining that actual mileage. That said, I suppose it would be a simple matter for someone to create a GPS unit with a scale calculated display but I doubt there is enough demand for such a product to make it cost effective. Like mewalsh100 said just set up a spread sheet and enter the actual GPS mileage numbers.
 
I suppose if ya boil it all the way down to the bare numbers, total motor revolutions could be used as a baseline and then calculated out using gearing and tire circumference figures...

And total revolutions ought to be available from the ESC on something as high-end as a Mamba-series ESC.

But...

I'm a lazy bastard and will try hard to forget I ever brought it up.

Then a few years from now when we are all getting telemetrics sent via BlueTooth to our sunglasses 3D HUD with this plus things like top speed, average speed, average minutes until LiPo cells (or whatever battery chemistry we're using by then) are out of juice, elevation change, temperature of each electronic component, etc...

...I'll remember making this post.
 
Gps is the solution. We've been running them on boats bikes and jeeps for years. "thumbsup"
Just multiply the distance by 10.

I'm not familiar with one small enough for a RC though.
Can you say G.A.R.M.I.N ....? Lol
 
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I just want to thank Vodoobrew, John Holmes and anyone else that helped me with my binding problem. It was the AVC on the reciever and the settings on my raido. The raido AVC needed to stay enabled with the settings to 0% and then I disabled the AVC on the reciever with a extra bind plug.

Thanks guys you rock!

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John, I have been studying your brushed motors and was wondering about the difference between the CrawlMaster Magnum series and the 550 size Crawlmasters. All things equal which gives more torque, extra length or larger rotor diameter? The only other thing I have been wondering about is the difference between stand-up and lay-down brushes. Does either confer any benefit to torque or efficiency? What about drag differences and wear?
Thanks.
 
I have a question, I bought one of those cheapo mini Yotas to tinker with while it's cold outside and have been watching alot of videos of guys upgrading them and on alot of those videos they will upgrade the motor to a 180 or a 370 and I see them soldering on capacitors, haven't noticed any info on how to know which one to use, just says it helps motor run smoother. How do I know which capacitor to use and where is a good place to get them?
 
I have a question, I bought one of those cheapo mini Yotas to tinker with while it's cold outside and have been watching alot of videos of guys upgrading them and on alot of those videos they will upgrade the motor to a 180 or a 370 and I see them soldering on capacitors, haven't noticed any info on how to know which one to use, just says it helps motor run smoother. How do I know which capacitor to use and where is a good place to get them?

If I recall correctly.... The motor caps were to reduce noise the motor put out that interfered with the old AM RX/Tx...

2.4gz made them obsolete....
 
Ok that makes sense back then, but not now this truck came with a cheap 2.4 radio and I noticed the stock motor has a capacitor on it too.


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I have a question about torque or HP to the rear wheel with a 540 35T vs a 45T motor - on 3S. For the same gearing, say stock, will the slower turn motor pull better? Or just go slower and run cooler?
I run a programmable esc, scx or vaterra crawler.
Thanks!
 
John I have a question that was 5 up from this one, I got an answer but still not real clear on it, thanks!
 
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