Heavy Metal KOH Jeepster Commando (C-101)

[sweli]

nice nice nice!! its a JEEPSTER:mrgreen:... LOVE this. cant wait to see.

Thx!!


BTW, does anyone know if the hole in the ball is 4mm on this:

Steely M4 Rod End (Heim Joint)

 

[sweli]

Found this 1:1 build on Pirate - WOW! :
Jeepster Commando Build - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

 

[semnmrc]

thx!!

Was your chassis originally a large, square extrusion? Cool it fits the width of the body like that!

It is tuff to get everything in this and leave room for an interior!

Yeah, it started out as an aluminum rectangle tube. Still not really sold on that idea either.:roll:

 

[sweli]

Upper Cage

Started thinking on the upper cage.

Main roll, following the door and almost the windshield angles.
4-5mm stainless rod.

Trans is mocked up in the pic. Going to mount the steering servo next to it.
In the last pic you can see the servo arm position.

 

[sweli]

Motor Options, Gearing

Limited space under the Tonka hood with the R2D2, servo, ESC.
To keep the ESC and motor small, I am going with an brushless outrunner.
(yeah I know, many believe they do not work well in crawlers)
This is a trail truck and an outrunner will give the torque needed but let me downsize the ESC and still be efficient.

I have a Hacker in another trail truck and picked one up for this. But it is more out of the norm.
Hacker A20-6XL. 28x32mm 2500KV 10pole! 35amps 83g

I was hoping to run this on 3s and wake it up, but it will prove too fast.
I also picked up a revolver to use just in case.

Some calc's:

 

[sweli]

It's a cage match!!!!!!!!

OK, not. It's cage work"thumbsup"


Three SS coupling nuts added to the main bar.........

For this.....................

 

[sweli]

C Pillars

C pillars for support.

 

[cb44v]

I love this build. Have you thought of pinching the front a bit?

 

[sweli]

Pinching the front would be very cool !!
I would have to deal with cutting, welding, and filling the hood though.

 

[sweli]

More Cage Work

Some more upper cage work.

The Tonka body has a stepped edge around the back. It steps in, but then ends up pointing upward.
The toy had a back molded back seat and fake soft top that looked like it was folded up and covered this sheet metal edge.
With the dovetail I had to come up with something to hide the sheet metal.

So I have some SS flat stock covering the top. With an SS wire inset to the step in the sheet metal.

This hides the edge, and the wire captures the body and holds in in place at the B-pillar (last pic below) "thumbsup"

 

[TekmoCrawl]

Amazing work!

 

[sweli]

Amazing work!

Thanks man!!

 

[sweli]

Windshield Bar - Cage Complete

Fabbed up front cage bar. Hides inside of the cut door jam and follows the windshield angle up and across the top. Roof panel screws to it in two places.

Installed:

Thin curved crossovers in the back.
Hoping the lower one follows the curve of a spare tire.
They need cleaned up and maybe reflowed again. Silver solder got a little 'goopy'.

 

[ngward79]

I like it , turned out nice man. Just not much of a fan of the roof though. Can't wait to see more, keep it coming.

 

[sweli]

I like it , turned out nice man. Just not much of a fan of the roof though. Can't wait to see more, keep it coming.

Thanks!

Roof was an 'in progress' thought. It's bolted on, so I can always fab up a panel from rods to fit in it's place.


The front bar I just finished, behind the windshield, had to be a separate pc from the main rear bars, to be able to install and remove again from the finished (painted) body. The angle to install the front and rear sections is different.
I figured this way if I had to get under the interior pcs that will eventually be in there (access to hidden electronics), without scratching too much paint.

 

[sweli]

Driveshafts

Well I was going to save up some mad money and splurg on a set of RC4WD Ultimate Scale driveshafts for this build.
I love the looks, but had my doubts on material quality.

Posted up on this thread:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/scal...ardened-steel-driveshaft-various-sizes-2.html

...............and the feedback speaks for itself:

After using the drive shafts I notice that the yokes are a wearing out and also the M3 pins fell off after 2 days of use, and the other pin followed few days later. I ended up replacing the M3 pins with M3 SS screw and lock nuts. I hope RC4WD addresses the weak yoke and change the pin to a ss screw nut / yoke combo. I also found some parts for the ultra scale drive from RC4WD but they did not mention what the part is for. Link is below.

This is simular to what happened to two sets of the SS Punisher Shafts I had.


MIPS it is! "thumbsup"

 

[sweli]

Light Bar

Wow, as it gets warm, I am finding less time to get in the shop and work in this thing

A while back, my wife got me a MadDogRC 4" Light Bar for this build, for my Bday.

The way the wedge mount sits on it, matches the angle of the windshield frame. So I can mount it lower on the frame, rather than up and over it.


Mocked up (held in place by a block of Delrin):

 

[sweli]

Light Bar

It came out a bit crooked, but oh well.

Rod up and around on roof panel:

Thin section of flat in place:

Blasted and cleaned up:

 

[sweli]

Paint

I need to start thinking about paint.

Traditional or something new???
Underside is going to be flat black.
Should I do single color or 2-tone?? High or Low 2-tone??(look at some of the pics)

First page here are a few traditional colors I like, along with some numbered paint chips I also am considering.
If I go with one of the newer chips, it will prob be a deep metallic.

thoughts:roll:

Here are some others, but not my first choice........

 

[french_connection]

I kinda dig the 2 tone, especially since you kept the Jeepster full retro front end look.