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Hoppa's B2DA

rmdesignworks said:
Nice Job man...Im curious to see this in action and see how well it all holds up.
Am I correct that you used a mig welder? And did you do two parallel beads or something else?
Click to expand...
Yes mig welder about 5 parallel beads. I ran one bead then waited for the material to stop glowing then another on the opposite side and so on. I roughed machined the weld to within .010 of the finish dia. Then touched up any spots that were not going to clean up.
 
Calderwood said:
Explain one way that cvds are better than universals.
Click to expand...

the CV part. Turn your wheels as far as you can and floor it. The constant acceleration / deceleration of a universal makes them clunky, and it is brutal on parts. On my sporty it nearly rips the front end off when at full throttle at full turn.


You mention a buggy universal, but at this point are there any high end buggies that still use them ( could be some swap meet brands, I would not know). I know my Losi, my associated, my tekno all use cvds. I suppose they all could be wrong.
 
I have not seen a true Constant Velocity Drive on any of these rigs. Both just use 2 pins to transfer rotation at an angle. One looks like a u joint and the other just looks like a CVD and speeds up and slows down just like the other. If we put two U joints in a row one will speed while the other slows. I believe it is then called a cardan joint.
 
I actually like the clunkyness (as far as it is not exaggerated).
Sometimes you have the wheels on the air and if you just floor it it helps.

In the end it's a matter of taste, but looks like the unis allow more steering...
 
The Violator said:
the CV part. Turn your wheels as far as you can and floor it. The constant acceleration / deceleration of a universal makes them clunky, and it is brutal on parts. On my sporty it nearly rips the front end off when at full throttle at full turn.


You mention a buggy universal, but at this point are there any high end buggies that still use them ( could be some swap meet brands, I would not know). I know my Losi, my associated, my tekno all use cvds. I suppose they all could be wrong.
Click to expand...

You sir, are sadly mistaken. A CVD like that comes with the bully 2 is not a constant velocity joint. If you look at a universal next to a CVD you will see that it works exactly the same. The pins travel with the exact same geometry. At 50* of steering both will have the exact same speed oscillation. The only reason that you associate universals with having a greater speed oscillation is because it becomes more apparent at the greater working angles they can achieve.

Swap meet brands? Kyosho is hardly a swap meet brand.

The Violator said:
What you need is some swap meet drive axles, and 12 pound knuckles. That would fix everything.
Click to expand...

:roll:
 
Calderwood said:
You sir, are sadly mistaken. A CVD like that comes with the bully 2 is not a constant velocity joint. If you look at a universal next to a CVD you will see that it works exactly the same. The pins travel with the exact same geometry. At 50* of steering both will have the exact same speed oscillation. The only reason that you associate universals with having a greater speed oscillation is because it becomes more apparent at the greater working angles they can achieve.

Swap meet brands? Kyosho is hardly a swap meet brand.



:roll:
Click to expand...

I have to agree...a "CV" joint has ball bearings captured in slots in an outer and an inner race that reduce drag at angle...the shafts we have on our rigs are just closed end universals or standardized universals.
 
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