• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

House’s TiDe Fighter

House

RCC Addict
Joined
Mar 4, 2009
Messages
1,049
Location
The REAL Nor-Cal
House’s Alumi-Fighter Bounty Hunter

Not sure if anybody but a select few visits RCC or the Berg forum,
but if you do then you can follow along and get a break from Facebook
as I play around machining some parts trying to make something cool.
I don’t consider anything crawler to be ‘vintage‘ RC, but if you don’t know
what a Ti-Fighter is I am not going to explain... and I am sure everybody
knows of Dlux knuckles and 7mm shafts with 8mm Ofna stubs. Tuff.
So here I go, trying to MRCCGA. :ror:
 

Attachments

  • 5324BB75-E182-4DDC-9A00-3BDF83451F3F.jpg
    5324BB75-E182-4DDC-9A00-3BDF83451F3F.jpg
    54.8 KB · Views: 912
Last edited:
Looking forward to following this thread glad to see someone still posting on RCC.
I know what Ti-fighters are but who and what's a Deluxe?
 
Thanks guys, I know that this isn't all that exciting since I have already
made these parts fit together on my other car and have been driving it...
With that being said I really like my car the way it is and don't want to change
it and not like it, so I figured what the heck, I will just build another one.
Besides, one can always be an emergency parts rig for the other at a comp.
Those who know me have seen that I have had some "interesting" failures
over the last few years. I think I have fixed most bugs, but since I am doing it again
I figured I would share...
 
No need to build a second car when you know some schmuk to steal an axle from if you break in a comp. :lmao:




The axles are pretty groovy, how thin are the tubes at the case with them #BAMFA shafts?
 
Yeah, right!?!
I have yet to make this set, but they should be right around .047 Wall which doesn’t
seem to be too thin if you are using good material... Hopfully they hold up.
The shafts are .275 dia and the tube thrubore is .281 with a .375 OD.
 
Gawdammit I'd break them right at the case for sure, but I am a ham fisted moron. I tend to jump things with my pro so yea. :lol:


Erik was complaining about my motor not making any power compared to his. Then I reminded him I run 4s, kinda different ways to go about the same thing. I'll upgrade this winter and still run 4s so it'll be even dumber.
 
If it’s anything like the other one I’m sure it will be awesome, Let me know if you need my address
 
Last edited:
Thanks man, I have always been a fan of your rigs. Always top notch.
I do need your address so I know where to send this thing for you to tune it once it's built! :ror:
 
I think they should all come this way, what do you think? 8)
I know, I know, function before fashion, right?
Well maybe it will slide on the rocks better now...
 

Attachments

  • DC2986E4-0985-4839-AA67-67B9FD8FF777.jpg
    DC2986E4-0985-4839-AA67-67B9FD8FF777.jpg
    62.4 KB · Views: 718
  • BD8D956F-7840-42AF-85D0-455E8043A796.jpg
    BD8D956F-7840-42AF-85D0-455E8043A796.jpg
    87.9 KB · Views: 705
Just a friendly reminder, if you want tapered rod ends just go to Dlux Fab and order the sliders for $12.
Don't take the time to machine them. I did this over 6 years ago and forgot how miserable those little ******* are...
 

Attachments

  • D2FAA767-FEA3-4CAF-97D3-4CC2B43E6EA1.jpg
    D2FAA767-FEA3-4CAF-97D3-4CC2B43E6EA1.jpg
    34.6 KB · Views: 673
Last edited:
I couldn't keep revo ends alive so I switched to jato length from rpm. A quick trim with a dremel and a little drilling with a 3/16" bit so there is a shoulder over the link keeping the transition to threads strong and they're solid.

20180531_173012_zpsezi4bm3p.jpg
 
Nice, I will check them out, thanks.
As far as standard Jato ends I will never use them on a lower link after watching two fail back to back last month... :shock:
 
Just my 2cent I've had good luck when using jato rod ends.
Out of curiosity who broke 2 jato rod ends back to back at BOTW?
 
Last edited:
Just my 2cent I've had good luck when using jato rod ends.
Out of curiosity who broke 2 jato rod ends back to back at BOTW?
Dooley did. His new car was a bit short so he used two Jato's to get it out to spec.
Broke one on course, thought it was a fluke, swapped it out, broke the new one,
went back to Revo ends and finished the day! Maybe a fluke? Who knows. My kinda luck!
Maybe my curse is finally broken and he contracted it! :ror:
 
I've had to source as strong as parts as possible and the rpm jato trick has proven itself on my bomber so I call it good. :lol: just need to set the drill depth correct so you don't drill too deep and pull the few threads left. I did exactly that and pulled an end off the tie rod. Shoved it back together and finished the course but I got lucky it held.


As for Dooley breaking them I'm betting the links were bent so the jato ends saw an angular load and not the typical push pull along their length. Go ahead, ask ke how I fingered that one out... :lmao:
 
Back
Top