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How I Narrowed Wraith axles
- Thread starter Shinjari
- Start date
klampykixx
RCC Addict
when it clicked to me as to what was actually in it, i was like, wait, what.?? haha snapped it up straight away. that will give me a brand two brand new front housings, and ill chop the old housings up to make the new centered rear.
minus the 2.2s, (lol) this is what im playing with. i call it the wraithokee. haha (original, not...)
minus the 2.2s, (lol) this is what im playing with. i call it the wraithokee. haha (original, not...)
mitchr97
RCC Addict
Any updates?
klampykixx
RCC Addict
i have a thread for ^ that now. in the 1.9 section. called klampyz wraithokee
So I finally got off my ass and finished this axle and needless to say....WOW!
I made it as narrow as I could and low and behold its almost identical (give or take 1-2mm) width pin/pin hex/hex with the k44!!! Unfortunately I only have a 6" caliper so precision is out the window. However! Let the pictures show the outcome! :twisted:
The AR60 turned out to be ~164mm pin to pin compared to the ~166mm for the K44. Plus the pumpkin is still offset too!
Let the pics speak for themselves. It's hard to get a good picture of them portraying the same width so I installed the same hexes, put on the same wheels and tires (1.9 tango downs with 1.55 iroks stretched over them) and took pics.
The tire track width is just a hair under 8.5" (thats a standard piece of 8.5"x11") paper the axles are sitting on. Even the pics on paper have a $hitty angle but they are as close as I'll get for now.
I'm very happy with this outcome/discovery. Sure the axle is a little thicker/beefier than the beautiful K44, but I'd cry scratching the K44s and wouldnt care so much about a $11 AR60 housing lol. ALso that means I can go back to only worrying about Axial spare parts. These K44's may be up for grabs soon, or put on a shelf queen "thumbsup"
Maybe I need to rename this thread title to say K44 width AR60's or something.
I made it as narrow as I could and low and behold its almost identical (give or take 1-2mm) width pin/pin hex/hex with the k44!!! Unfortunately I only have a 6" caliper so precision is out the window. However! Let the pictures show the outcome! :twisted:
The AR60 turned out to be ~164mm pin to pin compared to the ~166mm for the K44. Plus the pumpkin is still offset too!
Let the pics speak for themselves. It's hard to get a good picture of them portraying the same width so I installed the same hexes, put on the same wheels and tires (1.9 tango downs with 1.55 iroks stretched over them) and took pics.
The tire track width is just a hair under 8.5" (thats a standard piece of 8.5"x11") paper the axles are sitting on. Even the pics on paper have a $hitty angle but they are as close as I'll get for now.
I'm very happy with this outcome/discovery. Sure the axle is a little thicker/beefier than the beautiful K44, but I'd cry scratching the K44s and wouldnt care so much about a $11 AR60 housing lol. ALso that means I can go back to only worrying about Axial spare parts. These K44's may be up for grabs soon, or put on a shelf queen "thumbsup"
Maybe I need to rename this thread title to say K44 width AR60's or something.
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Finally got around to finishing this guy up and mounted on my Hilux truggy. Currently just using shortened dog bones since with how narrow they are there is no benefit of having the amount of steering the universals allow. Also the truss is a modified VP scx10 truss which worked perfectly. I made a make shift pan hard mount out of something I had laying around from a previous project, it works but I want something "prettier" lol. Now to see how it holds up. Still got the body to paint before I take her out. "thumbsup"
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Geez! Wont even let me paint it first? :lmao:
Anyways, here it is. New Pitbull growlers stretched over 1.9 rc4wd Tango downs.
With the scx10 axle with xr10 steering mod, the tires used to be 100% past the fender.
With a standard scx10 axle, roughly 3/4 of the tire was past the fender.
Now with the narrowest possible AR60 I get just a hair less than half the tire past the fender.
So if I actually put some fenders on the body, they would be covered even more.
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Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Looks great! So is the reason you limited the steering throw because the tires would get into the springs? I guess what I'm concerned about is losing some of the steering throw because that's one of the main reasons I want to do this mod. If I have to limit the steering too much I may just go with K44s or even Yota axles.
Also, do you know a rough estimate how much narrower this axle is compared to a stock SCX10 axle? Sounds like it may be about 1/2" total?
Thanks!
Tommy
Also, do you know a rough estimate how much narrower this axle is compared to a stock SCX10 axle? Sounds like it may be about 1/2" total?
Thanks!
Tommy
Exactly, didnt really physically limit the throw, its at max turn with the dog bones instead of universals and with the dog bones at full throw the tires just barely hit the shocks. If I ran universals then I'd have to limit it with EPAs or a physical bump stop of some sort. Also if I ran a higher offset wheel then I could minimize/eliminate the contact but that would widen the track width which I dont want to do.
I measured the width and it approximately .65" narrower, but probably more like 0.7" since the hexes on my scx10 axle are the wide ones whereas the narrowed axle has the slim hexes. I may run the wider hexes on the narrow axles just to see if that helps with shock contact at all.
Also, if you need/want K44's the set I have looks less and less needed since I finished this axle and will probably show up on the chopping block soon.
Heres pics of steering. Theres a decent amount to be honest. I havent driven it to see how it compares to my other rigs but I'll do that soon.
Sorry but the above the hood shot is hard to get. most of the tire is under the body. Hope these help.
Now to pic a cab color.....White...or red....hmmmm
I measured the width and it approximately .65" narrower, but probably more like 0.7" since the hexes on my scx10 axle are the wide ones whereas the narrowed axle has the slim hexes. I may run the wider hexes on the narrow axles just to see if that helps with shock contact at all.
Also, if you need/want K44's the set I have looks less and less needed since I finished this axle and will probably show up on the chopping block soon.
Heres pics of steering. Theres a decent amount to be honest. I havent driven it to see how it compares to my other rigs but I'll do that soon.
Sorry but the above the hood shot is hard to get. most of the tire is under the body. Hope these help.
Now to pic a cab color.....White...or red....hmmmm
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Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Thanks, man! But did something happen to the pics? :ror:
kakachille
Rock Crawler
make me some lol and nice chassis"thumbsup"
Pics fixed. Somehow deleted from photobucket.
Thanks about the chassis, I got it from a cool guy here. Hopefully painted and ready to scratch up today/tomorrow 8)
Also they aren't "that" cheap, I spent ~$60 just in axle plastic alone, if I had to buy the dog bones, bearings, locker, OD gear...it adds up quick! Makes me wonder if I should've just spent it on other things...but hey its great knowing I can do this and it helps others "thumbsup"
Materials:
AR60 Housing $12
AR60 Lower Link Mounts/Diff cover/bearing retainers $7
VP Truss $20
XR10 Plastic Knuckles $8
XR10 Plastic Chubs $12
Stuff I had laying around from stock axles
Bearings (4 large, 6 smaller ones forget measurements)
Dog Bones (cut down)
OD gear
Highland No Slop locker
(falsenfest/GCM/VP/Gripfab will work too)
Male WB8 driveshafts for inserts
Misc Hardware
Tools
Dremel
JB Weld/CA Glue
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Thanks for the pics just needed to see it with the body on it and it looks very cool amazing what a difference it makes. Med Silver or orange I think may be good color, don't see a lot of yotas that color. Axial needs to make a more scale narrow axle, I think they would sell a lot of them hard to say though thanks again for the pic
Yeah its a considerable amount. Heres the only pic that shows how wide it was with the scx10 with xr/wraith steering before swapping axles. Its pretty much the entire tire is past the fender.
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kakachille
Rock Crawler
those growlers look sweet
On another note, I posted these in Tommy R's Class 1 build when I should have posted them here too.
Basically I wanted to not have to use a clamping/no slop type of locker. My buddy prifral did the XR10 steering and told me how he shortened hte universals by sleeving them so he could keep the original tangs on the locker end of the universals.
Anyways after some measuring from the locker tang to the where the bearing seats on the end of the axle we modified a set of Universals. These custom welded cvds were in my Brute, and unfortunately broke, which brought up this conversation.
Basically cut out unneeded material from the center of the universal/dog bone. He had some chromoly tube which he uses for his tube work which he cut down and bored out the inner diameter to be snug/press fitted over the universal. Then he brazed it. The hard part was brazing it and keeping the measurement since despite press fitting the sleeve, under heat it expands and wants to slide/move around. Anyways heres a pic of the completed universal =) So far 3 outtings and it still works perfectly. I dont foresee these breaking at sleeve.
Basically I wanted to not have to use a clamping/no slop type of locker. My buddy prifral did the XR10 steering and told me how he shortened hte universals by sleeving them so he could keep the original tangs on the locker end of the universals.
Anyways after some measuring from the locker tang to the where the bearing seats on the end of the axle we modified a set of Universals. These custom welded cvds were in my Brute, and unfortunately broke, which brought up this conversation.
Basically cut out unneeded material from the center of the universal/dog bone. He had some chromoly tube which he uses for his tube work which he cut down and bored out the inner diameter to be snug/press fitted over the universal. Then he brazed it. The hard part was brazing it and keeping the measurement since despite press fitting the sleeve, under heat it expands and wants to slide/move around. Anyways heres a pic of the completed universal =) So far 3 outtings and it still works perfectly. I dont foresee these breaking at sleeve.
spookyseven
Rock Crawler
I vote this is sticky worthy. Nice work guys.
Thanks =) turned out nicely and looks great on the rig. Makes me want to replace all my scx10 housings with narrowed ar60s. Its definitely nice especially if you use no slop lockers, the removable diff cover makes fine tuning/tightening the set screws much easier than putting a hole in a housing.
