How to extract a broken screw?

[Shinjari]

Well long story short, I have a set of VP OMFs which I installed new black/alloy hardware in a year or two ago and (2) of them have (1) 1-64 screw sheared/snapped off at the head in the beadlock ring area. They snapped clean off and are nearly flush with the wheel so I can't even get a set of pliers on them or anything.

I have access to a drill press, so I thought of finding the smallest bit I have and trying to drill it out, but not sure I can get it started without the bit trying to "walk" and ruining the finish or threaded section. Don't think i have a pin punch small enough to punch the bolt to prevent/minimize walking, and even then I'd be concerned that punching it would cause the piece in the wheel to expand thus making it even more difficult to extract. Maybe I'm over thinking it.

I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or tips on how to remove the portion of screw stuck in there without ruining the threads or could even do it for me so I can get a new screw in place. Any help would be much appreciated. "thumbsup"

You can see what I'm talking about in the picture below.

 

[Eric0424]

You need a center/prick punch (first pic) to make a divot in the center of the broken screws, and I would advise finding a small center drill (second pic) to get the hole started. Center drills have a large shank and short/stubby tip that helps prevent walking since standard tiny drill bits like to arch when pressure is applied. Once you get a little depth you can use a standard drill if you need to drill deeper than the center drill. After the hole is started, using a left-hand drill bit and reversible drill may back the screw out while you're working with it.

You'll need drills in the #00, #0 or #1 range (.025" - .047") if you want to keep the treads in the hole.

Center/prick punch.

McMaster-Carr calls them "drill point countersinks", they're also known as pilot drills, center drills and sometimes stub drills.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

This is helpful. I had a screw break in one of my beadlocks.

 

[Shinjari]

Thanks for the info Eric, I may have to try that. Just hate how expensive mcmaster is to ship...

Would putting a 00 or #0 bit with only a small portion (~1/8") coming out of the chuck possibly work as well?

Also, thanks Admins for moving this to the appropriate section...I was torn between general and tools.

 

[Eric0424]

It's really not a good idea to clamp the flutes of a drill bit in the chuck, sometimes that alone can break them (don't ask me how I know that ) and they still move around a little in the chuck. But you can chuck them as close to the flutes as possible and it will reduce some of the flex.

McMaster-Carr is a little high on their tools, they're industrial grade, but for a one-time use situation it's hard to drop $30, $40 or $50 on a few odd pieces.

You might be able to find some of these tools on e-Bay and/or Amazon at a better price.

 

[Shinjari]

Well I have a few #0 bits, I'll see what I can do...otherwise I did source some #0 center drills on ebay for $5-6 shipped, better than $8 + $10 shipping from Mcmaster. Will keep you all posted if I'm successful. Thanks for the help.

 

[GraniteBandit]

Soak those in some kind of lubricant/penetrant for a day before trying to extract.
Kroil
WD40
Liquid Wrench

 

[BigSki]

best rust de-solver evah: 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. You're in a big city, you should have a Grainger somewhere around you. As much as I don't like them, they will carry in store or get the next day, the center drill or even a spot center bit would work. "thumbsup" They always have a "walk in" account setup, even if they don't advertise it.

 

[wings_of_fire]

You can ship them to someone who has an EDM die sinker and get those taps removed.

Or you can calculate the screws minor diameter and get a drill 0.2mm less that size to completely drill it. Drill rpm and feed should be slow and you will need cutting oil.

For center, you can simple use a nail and grind a point on it so as to use it as a center punch. Instead of hitting a single blow, you can give several less intense ones to create a center. The nail might need couple grinds.

 

[wouterb]

If the screw is stainless (and the wheel alloy) this might be a case of galvanic corrosion. Especially when is has been in there for 2 years.
Bottomline in that case is that the aluminium is been corroded to pieces by now. No matter how you get the screw out, the hole and treat are ruined.
Let's hope I'm wrong. Just m2c.

 

[Shinjari]

Thanks for all the input. Its an Aluminum wheel and alloy bolt.

There are a few graingers around, and BigSKi, you say ATF....may be silly to clarify....but you mean automatic transmission fluid?

I have cutting oil for when I tap things, and some WD40 rust breaker solvent. Im just not sure if it'll ruin the powder coat by having it sit in it for an extended period of time.

 

[BigSki]

Thanks for all the input. Its an Aluminum wheel and alloy bolt.

There are a few graingers around, and BigSKi, you say ATF....may be silly to clarify....but you mean automatic transmission fluid?

I have cutting oil for when I tap things, and some WD40 rust breaker solvent. Im just not sure if it'll ruin the powder coat by having it sit in it for an extended period of time.

No worries! Yes, I mean automatic transmission fluid, Dextron or whatever flavor is the cheapest. You won't need to let it soak too long, the acetone wicks it into the threads pretty quickly. I've been amazed at the rusted together parts that this concoction has freed up in the past.

In the worst case, tiny heli-coil sets are available. I have a set for 2mm and 3mm.

 

[DrewHammer]

Definitely a case of galvanic corrosion...

So, I hate to say this but you might be screwed (pun intended) but... I use a low concentration of phosphoric acid to remove rust on industrial equipment, Kleen Strip Prep & Etch from a hardware store is specifically what I use. A single drop of it off of a wooden toothpick might be enough to knock the rust loose in a few minutes, and from my experience, won't damage waterborne acrylic paints or solvent based enamels. I can't speak specifically for powdercoat, anodizing or whatever your wheels have on them. Unless you specifically had your wheels powdercoated, they're anodized. If you choose to use this method be aware that it is acid, and it sucks to get on you, wear safety glasses to protect your eyes or goggles. Don't take that stuff lightly. It is essentially liquid, concentrated naval jelly.

Heat will definitely turn the Fe2O3 into Fe3O2 (black rust) and is easier to disassemble after the reaction, however this may damage your finish.

Before you try all of that, as recommended, center punch the screw. I'd try a left handed bit if you have one. With screws that are RC sized I usually have luck with the bit binding in the screw once it starts and backing the broken screw out.

 

[Shinjari]

Hmmmm. well I'll give the solutions a shot, try my #0 bits...then if that doesnt work I'll go for a center drill from fleabay. Not sure I can grind anything that small considering its a 1-64 bolt. If all else fails, I can just reassemble them with those 2 missing...they don't look that bad....half tempted to glue a 1-64 head in there if I cant get it out.

Some pics when they were mounted on my Brute for mock up.

 

[Reddog95]

You might take it to a gun smith or a jeweler if you don't have any luck.

 

[Shinjari]

You might take it to a gun smith or a jeweler if you don't have any luck.

That might not be a bad idea.