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HRDROKN's Creeper build... 2nd time around!

HRDROKN

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Nov 8, 2009
Messages
259
Location
Vacaville
During the build of my R1 I had an idea to try a different path with the Creeper. The R1 stealth chassis looked like a good candidate for a build and will just need a added hole to fit the Creeper trans/skid assembly...

V062812-1.jpg


Shock placement will have to be inboard or I'll have to trim the nose off the stealth chassis. I think I'll play this direction out before making any cuts!

V062812-2.jpg


Articulation has potential....

V062812-3.jpg


;-)
 
Then I thought about the Axial tansmission I had put together. I like that it is so much less massive then the Creeper trans! So now I'm thinking Axial, Gmade and Venom hybrid...

V062812-4.jpg



:shock:
 
Worked on eliminating then remote diff lock off the axle. I first ground the axle smooth, then taped the inside to form the bearing pocket and applied some JB weld to the outside of the axle. After it hardens I'll clean up and shape. Looks like hell, but after a half dozen crawls the axle will look like hell anyway!

V062812-7.jpg


V062812-8.jpg


"thumbsup"
 
even though the actual trans is bigger on the creeper if you measure up the axial with the motor and dust cover they cover pretty much the same area. :shock: If that axial has stock gears the idler won't last long. Its the weak point on the axial trans as well as the output shaft. The creeper trans is pretty bulletproof so if I was you I would run the creeper trans. "thumbsup"

Creeper looks good! I like mixing and matching stuff together too if you couldn't tell from my builds. No reason you have to follow the norm. Making a rig based on what you like about each part is what makes it so fun. Plus fabbing your own stuff. Why pay $50 for something you can build yourself in 30mins. "thumbsup"

I like your BTA steering idea. I may have to try out a similar idea. "thumbsup"
 
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If that axial has stock gears the idler won't last long. Its the weak point on the axial trans as well as the output shaft. The creeper trans is pretty bulletproof so if I was you I would run the creeper trans. "thumbsup"

I have HR gear set in the axial trans and I agree that the Creeper setup is pretty tough out of the box!


Creeper looks good! I like mixing and matching stuff together too if you couldn't tell from my builds. No reason you have to follow the norm. Making a rig based on what you like about each part is what makes it so fun. Plus fabbing your own stuff. Why pay $50 for something you can build yourself in 30mins. "thumbsup"

I like your BTA steering idea. I may have to try out a similar idea. "thumbsup"

Thanks for the comps!

;-)
 
even though the actual trans is bigger on the creeper if you measure up the axial with the motor and dust cover they cover pretty much the same area. :shock: If that axial has stock gears the idler won't last long. Its the weak point on the axial trans as well as the output shaft. The creeper trans is pretty bulletproof so if I was you I would run the creeper trans. "thumbsup"

Creeper looks good! I like mixing and matching stuff together too if you couldn't tell from my builds. No reason you have to follow the norm. Making a rig based on what you like about each part is what makes it so fun. Plus fabbing your own stuff. Why pay $50 for something you can build yourself in 30mins. "thumbsup"

I like your BTA steering idea. I may have to try out a similar idea. "thumbsup"

i proved that it is not bullet proof after i put my brood motor in it, in 3 runs the trans was done then i put an axial trans in it and never had a problem
 
id like to contradict you mg for the statement on the idler in the axial trans. i run a 30t on 3s 40c lipos with a very heavy rig. not one idler gear has went on it, and this is the axial trans without a slipper. i broke an output on it but that was it for that trans.
 
Thanks for all the input! I'm going to go ahead with the Axial trans on this build for better or worse... ;-)

I did get the rear axle done today....

V063012-1.jpg


"thumbsup"
 
Ok... finally had some time to get a little work done. Mostly test fitting with what parts I had and I will finalize the link lengths and color later. I will have to make some shock braces between the upper mount locations.

V070512-2.jpg


V070512-3.jpg


The rear shocks hit the frame in articulation...

V070512-4.jpg


So I'm going to trim the chassis plates a bit... the blue tape indicating what I'll remove. Undecided about the front though as the front shocks do clear at full stuff.

V070512-6.jpg


Also with the Axial trans there is more space for the motor to clear the front upper link mount. This area was real tight with a R1 trans in place.

V070512-5.jpg


;-)
 
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looks good, what shocks are those? also it looks to me that the trans may be put together backwards. im pretty sure the input shaft should come out the other way so tthe spur is to the front of the crawler.
 
looks good, what shocks are those? also it looks to me that the trans may be put together backwards. im pretty sure the input shaft should come out the other way so tthe spur is to the front of the crawler.

The shocks are the Spark Comp Shock from RC4WD...

I built the trans that way to get the motor weight opposite of the torque twist... there is a thread in the Axial forums about this, but you had me thinking if the trans would be driven correctly... so I went out and verified the motor/trans runs correct.

"thumbsup"
 
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I cant remember if the R1 chassis is bodiless but if it is and you want to compete then it has to be 8" long to be legal. If you run a body on it it wont matter what length it is...just a heads up cuz no one mentioned it.
 
I cant remember if the R1 chassis is bodiless but if it is and you want to compete then it has to be 8" long to be legal. If you run a body on it it wont matter what length it is...just a heads up cuz no one mentioned it.

Thanks for that info! I'll go take a look at that because I would like to do some comps.

"thumbsup"
 
An if you don't want to cut ur chassis you could move the shocks down with the lower links. Maybe on the inside of ur tabs, towards the diff, if need be.. plus it will help with ur cog as well.. just a thought since it wasn't said already..
 
An if you don't want to cut ur chassis you could move the shocks down with the lower links. Maybe on the inside of ur tabs, towards the diff, if need be.. plus it will help with ur cog as well.. just a thought since it wasn't said already..


Too late.... ;-)

I could leave the front and completely bob the rear to meet the 8" length spec, but for now I did this for the needed clearance whithout effecting any length... I do need to shorten those uppers to calm down that pinion angle at stuff. lol.


V070612-2.jpg


V070612-1.jpg


8)
 
Lol.. looks good tho, I don't see an harm in that.. could still move them down with the links tho.. if ya wanted or when you get to that point if ever need be..
As far as ur Pinion angle goes.. ur front uppers could come back a hole at the chassis. As you want the servo plate to sit level, if not back a couple degrees.. an ur rear links could move back a hole, towards the back of ur chassis.. what's ur wheel base at right now? Also, to help with crawling an TT you should move ur rear uppers up an away from eachother, at least away... Use a spacer between ur tabs an, what I did to start, was put 6mm balls out of a link ends on the outside of ur tabs then ur links... THen just a spacers between ur front upper tabs an the links on the outside of them.. big help...
 
Wheelbase is sitting right about 12.45" at full droop... so I need to trim that back at ride height as that is how she'll be measured? The pinion angle may not be as bad as I originally suspected, I'll need to see if the angle is good with the Junfac drive shafts.

I suspect you have a good eye... as I do need to pull a little negative caster in the front, she's sitting slightly positive right now. Although not a huge deal at crawling speeds... not ideal non the less.
 
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