I want aluminum links

[R2j]

X10! "thumbsup"

If you're feeling crafty and want metal link's then save some $ by making them yourself...

If you're willing to spend $ on link's, don't settle for aluminum (or stainless which is softer than normal steel and may break at the threads), go for broke and invest in Titanium... last set you will ever buy! 8)

Of the 2 set's Natedog linked too, I like the Blue Monkey's because the lower suspension links are bent to provide better ground clearance.

I am kinda surprised Vanquish has not stepped up and introduced a pre-bent link set for us Scx10 owners yet... they offer a bent link set for the Wraith...? Come on Vanquish! These would sell like hotcakes ;-) ETA: I just posted this suggestion in the V.P. New idea thread

I beg to differ, stainless is much harder than regular steel, and it has the same slip and wear resistance as Ti. But less the cost than Ti. Out of all the hundreds of links I've made for myself and sold to customers, I've only had one instance of breakage and it was due to the customer trying to bend it too close to the threads. Even though he caused the failure, I still replaced it for him."thumbsup" I stand behind my products and will always prefer stainless over anything else.

 

[SpecE30Racer]

Does anyone have a how-to or a link to a how-to that shows a total newbie how to make the links and steering linkage? Thanks, ALLEN

 

[Meatwad]

Not to mention ti can have a tendency to gall against itself or other metals well before stainless, albeit not in typical rc crawler instances :mrgreen:

 

[SerpentCT4S]

40$ really?
Revo links cost me 9$
All thread cost me 2.50$ at Home Depot
And a piece of brake line cost me 5.49$ at car quest
So. 18$
I got aluminum steering upgrade when I got the truck. So you would need another bag of revo ends but I have plenty of leftover rod and b line so even then it's under 30$. With plenty of left over ball ends

I don't doubt you can spend 40$. But you don't have to

Ti links are sexy. But way out of my price range

How much material do I need (all thread & brake line)?

I'm not familiar with brake line. Is it a metal sleeve that goes over the all thread?

 

[BodiBuilt]

I beg to differ, stainless is much harder than regular steel, and it has the same slip and wear resistance as Ti. But less the cost than Ti. Out of all the hundreds of links I've made for myself and sold to customers, I've only had one instance of breakage and it was due to the customer trying to bend it too close to the threads. Even though he caused the failure, I still replaced it for him."thumbsup" I stand behind my products and will always prefer stainless over anything else.

I appreciate your input, especially comming from a R/C oriented perspective ;-) There are many different grades of steel which I suppose I should have mentioned in my previous post, certainly we can easily agree on that.

However, I am a bit surprised you would endorse "stainless over anything else"

Other than the initial cost and/or having to work with harder material's, I am curious why you would suggest S.S. (or any other) material over Titanium?

 

[Cave Dave]

Other than the initial cost and/or having to work with harder material's, I am curious why you would suggest S.S. (or any other) material over Titanium?

I can think of the reasons I prefer Stainless over Ti.

1. The cost of the material

2. The cost of tooling (your carbide tools last OK but drills and taps get eaten up pretty fast in Ti compared to say 303 S.S. or Aluminum)

3. Availbility of material

4. Having used both I personaly belive the Stainless slides on rocks without getting gouged and galled and lasts longer.

I bought 1/4 inch 303 hex stock from McMaster Carr and drilled and tapped the ends so I didn't have the weak male thread turned down on the end.Doing this also allows you to add length to the link by useing a longer piece of all thread and sleeving it if you wanted.

Link to the material I used http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-hex-bars/=la4ouj

Part # 89665k72 $16.22 for 6 feet of it.

 

[2.slowduo]

How much material do I need (all thread & brake line)?

I'm not familiar with brake line. Is it a metal sleeve that goes over the all thread?

The all thread I got was a 3 foot piece and I got a piece of brake line that was about 3 feet as well. There is plenty left over to make steering links as well


There is a thread in tools and procedures called. How to make links

 

[R2j]

I appreciate your input, especially comming from a R/C oriented perspective ;-) There are many different grades of steel which I suppose I should have mentioned in my previous post, certainly we can easily agree on that.

However, I am a bit surprised you would endorse "stainless over anything else"

Other than the initial cost and/or having to work with harder material's, I am curious why you would suggest S.S. (or any other) material over Titanium?

Cave Dave pretty much summed it up. And to add one other thing is a little extra weight down low. I agree on the types of steel, but you generalized it and I thought of just a common steel like cold rolled.

I use 304 for my links with the ends threaded 8-32, thread depth is 5/16". Like stated earlier, with only one failure. Ti maybe light weight and strong, but can be brittle too.

I'll stick with stainless."thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Cave Dave pretty much summed it up. And to add one other thing is a little extra weight down low. I agree on the types of steel, but you generalized it and I thought of just a common steel like cold rolled.

I use 304 for my links with the ends threaded 8-32, thread depth is 5/16". Like stated earlier, with only one failure. Ti maybe light weight and strong, but can be brittle too.

I'll stick with stainless."thumbsup"

I forgot to mention R2J's stainless steel links, they look very nice, although I have not used them yet. He does quality work from what I've seen and is a very good seller in my experience. I've bought some used/new parts from him through Classifieds section on here and they were all as described and he shipped very quickly with good prices. "thumbsup"

No matter what material is used, it comes down to the particular grade of the metal, the manufacturing methods and the warranty. "thumbsup"

 

[Tmaxxed]

40$ really?
Revo links cost me 9$
All thread cost me 2.50$ at Home Depot
And a piece of brake line cost me 5.49$ at car quest
So. 18$
I got aluminum steering upgrade when I got the truck. So you would need another bag of revo ends but I have plenty of leftover rod and b line so even then it's under 30$. With plenty of left over ball ends

I don't doubt you can spend 40$. But you don't have to

Ti links are sexy. But way out of my price range

I bought 6' of all thread ($6) and 4' of 1/4"X.035 aluminum tubing ($14) and 2 packs of revo rod ends ($18). So almost $40 and lots of leftover parts.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[05Fronty4x]

What size all thread did you use and how snug was it in the .035" walled 1/4" tubing? I was thinking of ordering that tubing size from Tower.

 

[2.slowduo]

I'm assuming that tubing is thicker than what I got from hobby town
I hope, for your sake anyway. I bent mine up pretty bad the first time out
Then I got the stainless brake line and retro fit my all thread
Good luck

And it seems you got twice the material so I can see 40$