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---Idk----my machine---IDK----

ok im going through to many cvd. im wondering if i have to much steering? can someone give me a little input. here is my max to both sides




i rub alittle on the springs but its not that noticable. any input is helpful

It looks like you have negative castor...that will eat cvd's. How much weight are you running in each front wheel?

Steering solution is in the works...unfortunately I dont have the equipment to make some of the parts myself...I lose a lot of sleep waiting on parts, all of that wasted awake time that I could be standing at a mill morning, noon and night.
 
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each wheel has about 1.5oz i got i stick of the stick on wheel weighs and split them. ya castor can you school me on adjusting this a bit? i added about 12mm to each upper link thinking it need to be less forward,was this wrong? cause since then nothing but trouble. and my rear ds when the truck is flat is at a weird angle at the axle end? the front ds is straight though? castor confuses and scares me:(
 
thanks man ur very helpful as always. were u gonna bid on the the same one?

Yeah, I had an alarm set for a couple mins before the auction ended an everyt! It was a hard price to pass up! My tranny case is wearing thin in the front where it catches all the rocks an I keep wondering when the dig gears are goin to go out on me, if they go out.. always nice to have spares! At 21$ it was hard to deal with that I hot to it, just in time to watch it end.. lol.. glad someone, you, in the sickness got it! dig is awesome! Once its setup right, it works great! Except for the occasional not locking back into 4wd right away. You will learn how to deal with that tho. Ease back into 4wd an if it grinds a little, back off the throttle, once in a blue moon, just a slight touch on rev will lock it in..
 
each wheel has about 1.5oz i got i stick of the stick on wheel weighs and split them. ya castor can you school me on adjusting this a bit? i added about 12mm to each upper link thinking it need to be less forward,was this wrong? cause since then nothing but trouble. and my rear ds when the truck is flat is at a weird angle at the axle end? the front ds is straight though? castor confuses and scares me:(

Negative castor is when ur axle is rolled forward, positive castor is when ur axle is rolled back( at minimum you want ur servo plate level, if not back a couple degrees... It's a huge help! Also, I take my cvd's apart an where the pin slots are, I take a small dremel diamond coated bit an do just a touch of grinding. So when they are put back together, at full lock, the cup edges touch the shaft an in a rotating manner, make sure it is smooth as possible for the full rotation of the shaft. It's a little extra work now, but seems to have saved me in the long run... Less binding means less stress on the joint an pins an longer life.

Do us a favor an take the wheels of ur driver side or passenger side, lay the tires down flat under ur axles, so it sits like it would with the tires on. An take a pic from the side an top. Then we can see where the angles of ur drive shafts an where ur links are mounted. It's easier to help you that way.
 
no pics yet on the driveline angles sorry man cause i got so pissed at my rig!! i stripped a hex on the rear!!! ahhh i just want to go a week without breakage. but i have had this thing for 8 months now so i guess things will break. anyway im getting some proline 8shooters of a guy on here for cheap. i have searched but get both answers. will these fit? what is the stock rim offest? please some just tell me the offset after searching pages and pages i cant seem to find that one answer or maybe im just dumb either way help me guys
 
They should be fine to run.. my buddy ran them on his losi an I believe there the same offset? If I may, try finding some delrin or aluminum.. I have found a couple sets of aluminum wheels with tires for 40$.. yeah 8 months will do it to a hex..
Get the pics when you can...
 
Creeper is under the knife as i have robbed all the elctronics for the ridgecrest. So i decided i want to make this a scaler but my question to the board is what scale chassis can i use with the venom tranny? Or is making a custom chassis the way i have to go? Dont want a tuber more of a ladder type frame im going to use a dingo body and will also be going back to rear steer. My two wants are. Use the venom tranny and frame mounted servos. Thoughts?

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2
 
Good luck with buildinga scaler using creeper trans no offense just creeper trans is bulky thats why i went axial with my scaler build
 
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I hear ya on that just dont wanna drop 50 on a tranny when i have one already ill have to see how it fits under the dingo body after it gets here i guess.

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im going with a r2 hd tranny. i do want to do some kinda interior so space is key know. plus for the time being im just gonna build off the integy tuber i have cut some stuff to cover the insides and my only concern is gonna be the battery being hidden. but ill have to wait till the tranny and motor is in. im gonna use a axail esc out of my ridgecrest and a get a cc link to progam it and the ccbec.

got the 1.9s installed on the axles with swamper tsl. i also need to think about new shocks. since im using 1.9s should i go to a shorter shock? i guess i should take this to the scaler thread? but its still a venom.


i want this to be a 1.9 rock racer. speed a need but im trying to bust flat land records. ive been running a 20turn with a 20 pinon and it was great but i lost to much power over bindable spot. so i was thinking 27turn but not sure what pinion? and this will be on 2s cause i dont wanna burn the esc.

im not sure at the motor gear setup though? im trying to get some rock racer coarse setup and havent seen to many youtube video with good layout shots. but i need enough speed to get some straights well enough but more muscle up over rocks and whatnot. the 20turn doesnt have it for crawling in my book so a 27 or 30 turn i think 35 would be to slow.
 
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