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Inside 6sharky9's SCX10 Honcho RTR

Received my Locked up FI Spools in the mail yesterday and should be installing them sometime this week...will post up the swap out.

These are some beefy spools...I don't ever see breaking these in the life time I would own my honcho..axles will break long before these
spools ever would no matter what power you are using...Nice product...Adds nice weight down on the axles where you can use it the most.

Im thinking I may remove some weight from the wheels now as a result.

Im not sure if received a set that will require some shaving to get the gears to fit properly but its no big deal to solve the issue if they are.
 
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Sounds good sharky, i had seen those f1 spools before but never heard of anyone blowing the stock ones..dif gears yes, driveshafts yes, hex's, dogbones but never heard anything about the lockers actually. But if they do give more weight in the axle, im all about that! Let us know how it goes
 
Been a while since a post here...The lockers and gears are installed and so far so good...removed 2oz. from each wheel for a total of 8oz to lessen the stress on the drivetrain.

Now im looking at getting the locked up slipper clutch eliminator kit and the pitbull tires with CI foams next along with the low/wide profile Level3 trusses for the front and rear...That should finish up any changes mechanically unless something breaks on me ..so far so good and almost 1 yr now on stock drive shafts, steering knuckles and c hubs and trans gears. (rear axles as well)

Hopefully I will get to experience my first event and do some further evaluation of the set up and reliability in PA this year.

Johnnyh66 im sure will spill the beans if I break something:lmao:
 
Been a while since a post here...The lockers and gears are installed and so far so good...removed 2oz. from each wheel for a total of 8oz to lessen the stress on the drivetrain.

Now im looking at getting the locked up slipper clutch eliminator kit and the pitbull tires with CI foams next along with the low/wide profile Level3 trusses for the front and rear...That should finish up any changes mechanically unless something breaks on me ..so far so good and almost 1 yr now on stock drive shafts, steering knuckles and c hubs and trans gears. (rear axles as well)

Hopefully I will get to experience my first event and do some further evaluation of the set up and reliability in PA this year.

Johnnyh66 im sure will spill the beans if I break something:lmao:

like i always say dont fix whats not broken. as long as your a good enough driver you shouldnt have to replace the c hubs or knuckles. only thing i have messed up on my truck are the stock plastic lower links but i have vanquish links comeing in.
 
like i always say dont fix whats not broken. as long as your a good enough driver you shouldnt have to replace the c hubs or knuckles. only thing i have messed up on my truck are the stock plastic lower links but i have vanquish links comeing in.

Well typically most will say you aren't driving it hard enough if you haven't broken anything yet and well maybe that's true...I drive it as hard as I need to to get what I want to accomplish if at all possible...But never have I though ill just nail the throttle when I know its jammed and see if I can break something so I can spend more money..Im sure in a comp situation to save points you need to get out of whatever situation youre in using gobs of power but I don't comp my rig ..so I guess ill find out what all the talk is about if I make it to the event this year...Im not in an area where ill attend multiple comps so if I break something ill have lesson learned for comps and go back to my fun with it at home and some play areas.8)
 
Well typically most will say you aren't driving it hard enough if you haven't broken anything yet and well maybe that's true...I drive it as hard as I need to to get what I want to accomplish if at all possible...But never have I though ill just nail the throttle when I know its jammed and see if I can break something so I can spend more money..Im sure in a comp situation to save points you need to get out of whatever situation youre in using gobs of power but I don't comp my rig ..so I guess ill find out what all the talk is about if I make it to the event this year...Im not in an area where ill attend multiple comps so if I break something ill have lesson learned for comps and go back to my fun with it at home and some play areas.8)

as long as you know how to drive and not get into binds your good. most of the time people get into a bind and just gun in full throttle to try and get out and thats when they break. i drove a losi comp crawler for about a year comping with that thing and only broke one axle 1 time but that was due to the first runs haveing weak axles. that one truck showed me how to comp with getting into minimal binds. also the older ax10's had super weak drive shafts that would break when in any kind of bind. i ended up selling that truck quick because how weak it was and how bad axial built my truck. it was a rtr and they ended up stripping out every screw that went into plastic. i am happy with this truck how it is.
 
as long as you know how to drive and not get into binds your good. most of the time people get into a bind and just gun in full throttle to try and get out and thats when they break. i drove a losi comp crawler for about a year comping with that thing and only broke one axle 1 time but that was due to the first runs haveing weak axles. that one truck showed me how to comp with getting into minimal binds. also the older ax10's had super weak drive shafts that would break when in any kind of bind. i ended up selling that truck quick because how weak it was and how bad axial built my truck. it was a rtr and they ended up stripping out every screw that went into plastic. i am happy with this truck how it is.

Well time will tell how I drive and how it holds up under a comp situation.
Im told its night and day compared to playing outside of a comp so well see..I most certainly wouldn't think I would win my first comp but I would look to finish and not break anything at least..Im sure ill learn something either way.
 
Last locker you'll ever buy!"thumbsup"

lol..im sure.

Was awesome how you had to force the axles into the spool...I don't see any slop from those in the time ill own this truck...Looking at thier slipper eliminator kit to drop some drivetrain weight and the OT2 axles to add some weight down low...awesome products at great prices from locked up."thumbsup"
 
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Well time will tell how I drive and how it holds up under a comp situation.
Im told its night and day compared to playing outside of a comp so well see..I most certainly wouldn't think I would win my first comp but I would look to finish and not break anything at least..Im sure ill learn something either way.
Good luck with your first comp"thumbsup" Comping does hone your driving skills, much more than just free crawling. When you throw in gates and a clock running, the intensity level goes way up. I did my first scale comp last month and im hooked on it. Just remember to have fun
 
You said that you are using different gear ratios between the 2 axles. Isn't it a bad thing to have your front wheels spinning at a different rate than your rear ones or is there some advantage to that?
 
on a 1/10 scale rig its not noticeable except for the fact it will turn better and have less issues flipping backwards on a hill climb...other than that it does no harm to anything. I done it on mine and it only helped performance...
 
You said that you are using different gear ratios between the 2 axles. Isn't it a bad thing to have your front wheels spinning at a different rate than your rear ones or is there some advantage to that?

I chose to go with the underdrive gears on the rear and stock ratio up front...Some like to use the Overdrive in the front and leave the stock ratio in the back..And some use the overdrive front and underdrive on the rear.

I chose just one change as doing both has an much larger effect between the ratios...its not very good for trailing as under speed you basicly drag the rear tires because they spin so much slower than the fronts..Great for slow rock crawling but not a good choice for an all around trail truck.

Choose either underdrive for the rear or overdrive for the front but not both if you trail a lot and not just crawl

And as allanon1965 said it will help turn the vehicle more than try and push it and it will help with climbing up hill

Definitely a worthy mod.
 
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I agree with the UD rear and stock up front, that's what has worked best for me. And when you come right down to it, the front is still over driven as compared to the rear.
 
Again, a while since last update...Haven't changed anything on the truck,,still no 3s battery used with it...Still haven't broken any of the stock parts (front knuckles, C-hubs,axles,trans gears, driveshafts etc....I couldn't be any happier with the set up and it still performs very well for me...went back to the stock esc after one battery run through a different esc..Really didn't see any difference and the stock esc is still going strong...Maybe im the luckiest owner in the world but I absolutely have zero failures to report in over 1 year of use.

Would I change anything ive done to it?..My answer would be no, as far as performance is concerned.
 
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