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Jato Bumped His Head - SCX10 II Edition

Both trucks started out new and pretty. Let's get trailing!

I didn't take as many photos as I thought so these few will have to do. And my awesome story telling ability will have to make up for the rest. :ror:




Photos and videos never do justice to the real life appearance or difficulty of an obstacle. This was a pretty tough obstacle. I made it with my truck, but I had to move quickly so it didn't roll off the side. My truck is horrible at side hilling. I think there are a few reasons for that, but more on that later. Anyway, this is my dad attempting it with his completely stock RTR.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/101888715@N03/41468116935/in/album-72157668287618518/" title="20180526_115346"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/877/41468116935_fb2e52e1f6_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="20180526_115346"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Nice looking trail/terrain Jato! Running with your Dad makes me very jealous..... Spend as much time as you can with him brother.

It's a nearly perfect scaler park for sure! I'm lucky to have it within a half hour from my house.

I'm also lucky my Dad is young enough, healthy enough, and childish enough to play with toys with me! I do cherish it and it's brought us closer for sure. "thumbsup"
 
Nice! Im very interested in what you intend to do for side hilling, its a problem with my rig too.
 
One thing I want to mention, before I forgot again, is the grinding I have in the transmission. I noticed this odd grinding in the trans at very slow speeds and startup before the first run, but I forgot to address it. Video is below. I'm using the VP top shaft that I thought rectifies this. My stock 35T brushed motor is getting warm quickly and I wonder if this grinding is part of the issue. Are you guys experiencing this? If so, what's the fix?

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/101888715@N03/41518386524/in/album-72157668287618518/" title="20180520_125258"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/828/41518386524_3bdc610639_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="20180520_125258"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

The trail run was good. It was the first sunny day in weeks. It's been doing nothing, but raining here so even the most bug-phobic people were out and about on the trails. The good thing is bikinis were everywhere near the creek. For the first quarter of the run I was very distracted. No, I didn't take photos because I didn't want to take creeper level to the stalker level. :lmao:

I had a ton of fun with this truck. It definitely has issues and it needs some work on setup, but it was a lot of fun.

Pros:
- Turns on a dime. I'm really impressed by this. This obviously benefits greatly on the trails. It's been a while since I've run my other trucks, but the SCX10 II seems to be king here going off of my horrible memory.
- Climbing. It climbs fairly well with the stock weight bias. There wasn't too much that it wouldn't tackle.
- Durability. Seems to be improved. That's only an initial impression only as this is my first run.
- Good out of the box. A newbie can build this kit, drive it, and be very happy. I had the same feeling when driving my OG SCX10, but to a lesser extent. This is definitely an improved kit and I don't feel the need to add tons of weight down low for climbing like I did with the OG. Side hilling is a different story.
- Servo winch. Included provisions for a servo winch are awesome. I definitely want to try that out at some point.
- Smaller pumpkins. Huge improvement. We didn't know any better with the OG SCX10, but the Ascender made us see the light. It's done well on the SCX10 II.
- Body. Yes, I said body. Despite the issues with mine and my lack of understanding the modern day "Jeep Thing" I do really like this body. And the gloss primer color of the RTR, which I initially hated, grew on me and I quite like it.

Cons:
- The slop. OMG is there slop in the links. Even with Samix steel balls the truck wobbles like it's been ran for years and completely worn out. It causes the truck to be jerkier than it should be. Anything except perfect throttle inputs would induce side to side wobble. Not a good thing. This definitely needs to be addressed. I haven't looked into what's causing it. If the Samix balls are too narrow, which I don't think is the case, I can just add shims. I'm open to suggestions for fixes here.
- Side hilling. This is what I dislike most about the truck. It flips on its side way easier than it should. I think the large body adds to this. I am definitely not adding the roof rack up top. That would only make it a lot worse. I'm hoping the smaller, but thicker Power Wagon body lowers the CG, but I could be wrong. I guess I should weigh both bodies when the Power Wagon is finished. My increased ride height from the longer lower shock ends, which was negligible at best compared to my dad's RTR, and larger tires add to this top heaviness. I do think I'm going to try switching back to the stock shock ends though in place of the optional +5mm that I'm using now. I need to get some weight down low both in the front and rear. I know I can do knuckle weights in the front, but what about the rear?
- Torque twist. People that claim the SCX10 II doesn't have torque twist are wrong. With the way people talked I expected it to remain as flat as a Lamborghini in a corner. Definitely not so. Mine has plenty. Again, the shocks aren't stock so that could be part of the issue, but I think the Proline springs are stiffer. Does it affect performance? Just like on the Ascender the torque twist is rarely an issue.
- Defective body. My body was extremely thin especially in spots when comparing it to my Dad's. So now I know not all of the bodies are junk, but mine is because it's defective. After one tumble early in the run the body was ruined. See the photo below. I'd contact Axial's customer service, but Bonnie... I have to call them at some point.
- Door handles. Another complaint about the body is the hard plastic door handles. The locating pins on the handles constantly pull out of the holes. I will have to Shoe Goo them.
- Trans grinding. As detailed above.
- Bump steer. There are small geometry issues in the front end that result in a small amount of bump steer. I'm not sure if all kits are like this or if the variance in manufacturing and the resultant tolerance stackup are causing mine.

Here you can see the stress marks and even cracks in the body from one, hard tumble. My dad's truck took similar tumbles and his body is fine. Again, I'd blame this on the fact that my body is defectively thin.



The truck is good out of the box. I'm not happy with the way my truck performs, especially side hilling, so it's definitely going to get some changes.

Proline Shocks. I think the Proline springs are too stiff. Often my truck would carry the front wheel just like a leaf spring rig. All 4 of my Proline shocks are leaking. I really can't express how disappointed I am with this shocks and it's rare that I'm disappointed with anything from Proline. I'm so disappointed with the shocks that I emailed Proline. The springs are too stiff and I didn't see any aftermarket options. The included shock mounts and spring perches are plastic. The spring perches aren't even captured so they are easily lost. And lastly, they leak like a sieve. I used Green Slime on the X-ring, but not Telfon tape. Maybe I have to add that. Thoughts from my fellow Proline scaler shock owners?
 
Sounds like your body may have been a short shot (insufficient fill), or a deliberate cost out (I know you know what a short shot is, everyone may not).

Interested to hear what Pro-Line says about your shocks...hopefully they don't have a Bonnie too...or AMain's Matt.
 
I wonder if there are any differences in quality pre-factory switch and post-factory switch. I'm assuming you got a post-factory switch produced kit. I got mine 2 years ago before the factory issues. Haven't had time to run it yet, hopefully soon.
 
Sounds like your body may have been a short shot (insufficient fill), or a deliberate cost out (I know you know what a short shot is, everyone may not).

Interested to hear what Pro-Line says about your shocks...hopefully they don't have a Bonnie too...or AMain's Matt.
I'm guessing it's a defect rather than deliberate. My dad's RTR and my kit were purchased within a week or 2 of each other from Tower and his body is much better. My body is thinner, but gets substantially thinner at the bottom of the body which would have been towards the end of the mold.

I wonder if there are any differences in quality pre-factory switch and post-factory switch. I'm assuming you got a post-factory switch produced kit. I got mine 2 years ago before the factory issues. Haven't had time to run it yet, hopefully soon.
I'm guessing both my Dad's RTR and my kit are from the new factory.
 
You could try the RPM revo rod ends with axial width brass balls from vanquish.

It's What i used on the bomber and there is no slop on any link. Some were almost too tight.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
The noise from the trans sounds like you have that 36t gear on the second shaft on backwards. Mine sounded like that until I flipped it and it is now almost silent. Also, mine sidehills better than anything at any of my trail runs so far, with the stock tires that is. Last weekend I put on a set of 4.75 Hyrax's and didn't get a chance to test the sidehilling out.

edit: I don't use the large standard size packs. I use tiny 1300 mAh 3s packs. Also, as to weight down low, a set of xtra speed or Boom racing Phat axles housings are good for low weight.
 
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The noise from the trans sounds like you have that 36t gear on the second shaft on backwards. Mine sounded like that until I flipped it and it is now almost silent. Also, mine sidehills better than anything at any of my trail runs so far, with the stock tires that is. Last weekend I put on a set of 4.75 Hyrax's and didn't get a chance to test the sidehilling out.

edit: I don't use the large standard size packs. I use tiny 1300 mAh 3s packs. Also, as to weight down low, a set of xtra speed or Boom racing Phat axles housings are good for low weight.

Hmm maybe it is that gear. I'll check it out.

I was using a Tamiya-sized, 4200mAh stick pack and I'm sure that didn't help.

Boom makes nice axles, but I don't want to go to metal on this truck - at least not yet.
 
So, because I couldn't fall asleep last night I am operating with sleep deprivation today. As a result, there are some things I forgot to mention that I will state now. And I'm noticing some of my sentences make me seem unedumacated so forgive me.

I stressed the inability for this truck to side hill in the previous post. Besides the nasty tumble that ruined the body when I couldn't catch the truck, I was treating the truck nicely. Then we got near water. I was trying to sidehill around a tree near a shallow stream. Any of my trucks would have done this without issue. This truck decided it was hot and it jumped into the water landing on all 4 wheels. The water was about up to the top of the tires.

Hmm...well then. If you want to act like a bad, little truck I will treat you as such!

Before this I avoided water altogether, but since it was wet it might as well stay wet, right? And afterwards I didn't go in anything more than half a tire deep though.

After this dive into the water, we spent most time playing on one awesome, large boulder near the stream. It was easily and hour we spent on this one rock. Sounds crazy, but this rock had all kinds of obstacles on it. It gave us a chance to test out the performance of the tires when they were wet and muddy. Plus, if you messed up you risked taking a big dive into deep water. Thankfully, neither of us did that. It was a ton of fun.

Throughout the day we noticed my dad's RTR has significantly less wheel speed than my kit and both are running 35T brushed motors. The overall gear ratio must be quite different between the trucks. Also, the S30 RTR tires are surprisingly decent especially on dry rocks.

When we got back to the car I tried shutting off my car via the switch on the Castle Mamba X ESC. It wouldn't turn off! I haven't tried using it since it dried. That's concerning though.





 
My kit tires performed very well, even full of mud.

ssSODAR.jpg
 
When we got back to the car I tried shutting off my car via the switch on the Castle Mamba X ESC. It wouldn't turn off! I haven't tried using it since it dried. That's concerning though.


I waited on hold for 45minutes to talk to Castle about that. I wanted to see if cutting it off voided the warranty. So the nice fellow at Castle tells me that that I can cut it off and still have support. He commented that most switches fail in the off position.


Well it has long since dried out and is still failed in the on position, and including you I have seen 4 other which did the same.
 
I waited on hold for 45minutes to talk to Castle about that. I wanted to see if cutting it off voided the warranty. So the nice fellow at Castle tells me that that I can cut it off and still have support. He commented that most switches fail in the off position.


Well it has long since dried out and is still failed in the on position, and including you I have seen 4 other which did the same.

Thanks for the input. That's odd. I know people often complain about switches, but I've never had one fail in all my years.

Castle is in a good place right now in terms of their product quality and features. It looks like they just need to upgrade the switch. The switch on the HobbyWing WP 1080 is awesome. Castle should move to something like that IMO.
 
My Manba X switch failed right out of the box. Had to wiggle the switch to turn it on, so I just cut it off and soldered it together.

I agree, the switch on my Hobbywing 1080 is awesome. It works great.

Oh, and nice build Jato. Can't wait to see the Power Wagon!
 
My bronze SSD wheels, which were out of stock everywhere, finally were restocked at RPP and I jumped on them.

I'm still waiting on my new tires and foams and, of course, I have to mask and paint the body. I ordered some Tamiya masking tape for curves last night to try.

 
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