Postclanker
I wanna be Dave
when you refer to "moved out 3mm" is that rocked back toward the rear wheels? seems like that would fix all issues.
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JC Auto Design - SCX10 Rear Upper Link Risers - Improved geometry
- Thread starter monkeyracer
- Start date
monkeyracer
I wanna be Dave
Tried a design for the outside of the chassis, but it wouldn't work with any sliders, so back to the inside of the chassis. Inset the mount a little to clear the driveshaft:
See my pics from previous posts...
In order to keep existing link length, it is 3mm outward, but there well be some rearward extended mounts out for testing as well.
The first v2 mounts (as shown above) will be arriving today and tomorrow, so hopefully we'll see some pics and info on fitment by the end of the weekend.
justinart24
I wanna be Dave
Next time you release something I would suggest BETA testing it, send it out to a few builders to get their feedback (people would be excited to do this). You got a cool concept there though."thumbsup"
Pretty sure he tested - doesn't mean you'll always find all the bugs or issues with all the different combos that are available.
monkeyracer
I wanna be Dave
Yeah, the version that I posted on the first page is version 7 really, and was tested on my IFS SCX and my TJ mutt build. Both vehicles are fairly far from stock, so I didn't see the clearance issue on either build. I will do beta testing for future products with other vehicles, just didn't happen that way on this one. My truss was tested on a stock JK kit, and was sold off to another guy that has had no problems with them, even still, there has been a revision to that truss that didn't come up until it was brought up by a customer.
As doublej said I could have sent it out to drivers with a specific set-up, but maybe it won't work with "x" or "y". It is a valuable way to get a good majority of the bugs worked out, and will be something I will be looking into very soon. I've got some more products in the pipeline, so I will be looking for testers soon. (Don't PM me yet on this though, there will be a specific thread for that soon...)
Big Daddy
RCC Addict
Just wanted to say Thank You for standing behind your products. It's "stand up" to just send out all new products to all who bought them.
fj40jay
Pebble Pounder
I agree, Thanks.
I received my v2 set today, I am sorry to say it is still a no go with the MIP,s. There is just not enough room with those fat a** drive lines.
mikro383
Quarry Creeper
Version one Ar60's stock wraith links tranny flipped and mirrored stock wild boar shafts no room
Version two much better the bent upper links get into the rear chassis brace bad I've got Vanquish links on the way hope they help if not I'll have to make straight ones
Sent from my phone because my computer sucks
Version two much better the bent upper links get into the rear chassis brace bad I've got Vanquish links on the way hope they help if not I'll have to make straight ones
Sent from my phone because my computer sucks
monkeyracer
I wanna be Dave
Thanks!
Damn fat shafts... there are some beta testers who will be receiving some that may work with MIPs, so stay tuned...
Thanks for the pics! It looks like those will work with the Stock driveshafts. As far as the links hitting the chassis brace, that may be an issue with the new geometry. If that is the case, I already have a prototype for a new rear brace, but will need to do some testing on it to make sure it will work.
Also, the intention is that the screw is mounted the other way, with the head of the screw on the inside, rather than the way mikro383 posted.
For now, for those using the fat MIP shafts, please wait for the testing on the other mounts.
6sharky9
RCC Addict
Version one Ar60's stock wraith links tranny flipped and mirrored stock wild boar shafts no room
Version two much better the bent upper links get into the rear chassis brace bad I've got Vanquish links on the way hope they help if not I'll have to make straight ones
Sent from my phone because my computer sucks
On the first pic (version1) it looks like you can gain a lot more clearance if you just use a button head screw from the inside and put a lock nut on the outside...Just a suggestion.
monkeyracer
I wanna be Dave
6sharky9
RCC Addict
Heres a tip guys...the version 2s are the bomb design wise...Other than just the anti squat performance as version 1; can anyone tell me what else the brackets change for the better with version 2? (other than proper drive shaft clearance.)
Lets see who all is tuned into what they are buying.8)
The first one to get it right other than the designer should get all "likes" on the answer.
This product will definitely be mentioned on my Thread and be used on my vehicles.
Nice work.
Lets see who all is tuned into what they are buying.8)
The first one to get it right other than the designer should get all "likes" on the answer.
This product will definitely be mentioned on my Thread and be used on my vehicles.
Nice work.
Last edited:
grunt95
Rock Crawler
got my tracking number for the V2s that you were nice enough to send me but my only problem is that it doesnt work at all.
muddywaters
RCC Addict
No worries on that I got the same tracking issue. Sometimes the post office takes it's time to update, but most likely by Monday or Tuesday the tracking will probably be updated and the package will be in your mail box sooner than you think."thumbsup"
monkeyracer
I wanna be Dave
Exactly. Especially around this time of year, usps is a little slow on tracking. All orders are out except for the international orders since I need to drop those off in person. Those well be out Monday.
grunt95
Rock Crawler
ok thanks for the update and reassurance!
Ramination
Rock Crawler
I'm not sure what version I got, but it kicked my pinion angle up a little, which normally would be ok I suppose but I had my links built to hide the driveshaft up above the links. So the little extra rotation the blocks gave made it so the driveshaft was binding before full bump.
Then, when I was taking the first link off to shorten it, I snapped the block. I'm not really sure how I did it, I wasn't being forceful so for anyone else who is working with these be careful.
Then, when I was taking the first link off to shorten it, I snapped the block. I'm not really sure how I did it, I wasn't being forceful so for anyone else who is working with these be careful.
monkeyracer
I wanna be Dave
That is a very strange break. It is against the grain of the print and doesn't seem to be along the chassis line... Very weird. You've got a PM...
These are ABS plastic, so you don't need to really torque down the screws, and once they are installed, they should hold up to most abuse that these things see.
Anyone else break one as well?
Also, as I mentioned earlier in the thread, this will rotate your pinion to a better angle if you have stock geometry. If you are running other links, you will need to adjust them to keep your pinion angle in a good zone.
bvrc
Rock Crawler
I ordered two sets a while back. Today I got 4 sets (2 v1 sets and 2 v2 sets). I haven't tried them out yet, but I wanted to thank you for the free upgrade."thumbsup""thumbsup"
