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jmike's Havoc Pro build

Actually, he didn't notch it, I did! Lol. We used a 1.5 belt sander to grind away the material. It takes a bit because of the heat buildup but works very nice and clean. I have the same axle setup and it turned out VERY clean. jmike's is not quite deep enough yet. I have to grab a new belt for it tomorrow to finish it up, the pictures shows it buffed nicely because the belt got a little smooth.
 
okay "we" cut the axles.. Well I just held the light haha. Tommorow I'm going to whip up some panels for the sides, roof and hood.

Is there a system out there to mount hexes like the v6 XVDs on the rear?
 
I am just glad to see someone still doing a bully buid...cool looking forward to the changes you will be doing after you get it rolling and do some comps with it"thumbsup""thumbsup"
 
any updates?

is it running yet?

any reason on why your running rear torsion?

Nope and but fingers crossed that the rest of the goodies show up before next weekend so I can build and take a test run. But unfortunately there is about 5 months until we even start thinking about comps. But I was a busy little squirrel before the snow hit ( " Oh hunny I have a new addition to the basement " the wife was pretty impressed hahaha )



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I don't have a solid reason why I did the torsion in the rear. I guess it's mostly the sheep in me.. :mrgreen: Jarod from JP is doing it so it's gotta be worth a damn. Also my first MOA build so really I'm not sure what I'm looking for. But if I had to speculate from the videos I've been watching, A sprung front allows for more extension when front digging on break overs. The torsion rear wont allow the rear to squat under it self on verticals. I don't really understand squat and anti squat but I think a solid rear might take that out of the equation. The torsion rear won't allow the rear to fall into as many holes. The sprung front will give a more controlled, slow and smooth movement when navigating side hills allowing the front to have a more tunable "push back" and the rear to follow. Lastly it keeps the weight bias more towards the front..

But this is all just greek theorized rocket surgery to me but I'm looking forward to testing! "thumbsup"
 
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you do have good solid points with the torsion rear set-up .... and im pretty sure it'll work out really well ....

hope to see this thing on the rocks soon ....
 
Thanks for the photos and great build thread. I'm gonna keep an eye on this one. I am awaiting my Havoc chassis and links. One question, What size are your torsion rods?
 
We should have the front axle tube done in a couple hours, all depends on when I can get my but over there I guess. I was actually wrong ont the belt size, 1" and it works pretty damn good.
 
We should have the front axle tube done in a couple hours, all depends on when I can get my but over there I guess. I was actually wrong ont the belt size, 1" and it works pretty damn good.

Yup pretty slick if I do say so.. Thanks Mikey! "thumbsup"

Back together as a roller until more parts arrive. Put a aluminum spacer on top the cab to make the min 3" width rule, Should be within spec on everything else

Here are the panels I made, not 100% sure that they are up to snuff for the build but the'll do for now .. Best part is that they are cheap! I made this set out of the packaging that the wheels came in.. Who says crawling cant be green :lmao:


Couple of posers :ror:
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So I've been looking through the USRCC rules and few of threads (mind bottling discussions!) and was wondering if this qualifies as a legal measuring for the width? I seem to be within spec on everything else but I wasn't sure on how to make the 3" width so I added a ~3" alum rod to spread the cab (cab bolted up is around 2.5" wide without spacers).

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Thanks!

Edit: Never mind the wiring to the bullet connectors on the ESC.. I realized they were backwards after I was looking at the pics! Who say staring at a forum all night never paid off!

Little more progress but I'm at a stand still until the R-45T Br00d's arrive

Wired in the Punk,the BR-XL and the Castle BEC, then slipped the Rx inside, wrapped it all up and tucked it into the bottom of the chassis. The heaviest items (punk and ESC) are as low as they are going to get, which I like, and All the items slide in and out as one nice little unit. I have everything insulated from each other with some foam servo tape so there should be no contact. Fingers crossed tho. That braided cable sleeving looks purdy but is a major PITA to keep from unraveling once its slid over the wires. Made a nice little system to open the roof panel too out of some o-rings and 4mm bolts. Also decided to ditch the lexan battery plate, it was restricting the links a bit, and just use a Velcro strap to hang the pack off the upper links. We'll see how it holds. Drank two of those awful Monster Hitman shots too to get some plastic to make motor protectors.. Bleeeeeck....

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Got the Br00d 45t and wired them up.. but Houston we have a glitch. Everything arms up correctly and functions but there is some interference something like that that is causing the motors to cog or buzz. Best to have a look at the video and the pics

Calibrated the ESC
Setup the dig function switch

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1: Calibrate radio to ESC.
2: Make sure all your radio settings are good. Throttle curves, end points etc. (I just had a radio setting messing my twin FXR setup, silly thing, but that's all it was)
3: Check the settings on the ESC. Throttle curves, etc.

If that don't get you going, put this post in the electronics forum at the top. There's a bunch of info MOA set ups as well as the radio you're using.
 
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