Like stated above you need to double apposed triangulate the links (upper to lower). Also its bad to have that much throw in the axle movement (will wear out joints pre maturely and put greater stress on joints). Should be stable and solid. On other rigs the lowers are in a lot more at the frame side to give the lowers more triangulation and becomes more stable this way. The creepers transmission is mounted into the "belly pan" making this not able to happen. So moving to a more triangulated upper is the way to stabilize it.
And so on to the reason I read 8 pages..... and didnt see it posted once: More pics of said chick with no wedding ring. After page one I was let down tremendously with lack of these photos. The build was going "good" almost "too good" "thumbsup"
Not to debate the suspension geometry bit..... and fill this full or 1:1 debate vs RC scale squat vs anti squat, and so on but the instant center is not point full on this size of a rig..... and im sure that the many that have pushed their lowers about 1/2in apart and closer can attest to that theory while running uppers about a 1/4in apart on the axle sides to frame width. I know there is nothing to be done in the case the creeper due to where the transmission lies. And hell what works for one dont work for all..... some like it loosey goosey and some like it all bound up. And just like we say on the PBB..... ya cant go wrong with more triangulation
That looks like a lot better...thats right about where mine is and several others' with the set up Ive suggested...and it works.
More triangulation greater roll center less triangulation less roll center thuss less TT
