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krawls XR.....with a dash of y-town please!

floogldood said:
1" slw v4 in the rear with 600 hubs
(1 oz of lead weight wrapped and electrical taped under the rear axle lockouts)
crawler innovations standard dual stage (uncut)
IMAG0313.jpg
Click to expand...

I believe this is what you are looking for.
 
Fantastic build Krawl. Lots and lots of good information. If folks would just read they wont have to ask what link lengths your running every other post."thumbsup"
 
Are your shocks still limited 1/8" internal 3/8" external in the front and 1/2" external in the rear, or have you changed them?
 
krawlfreak said:
correct,

believe it or not they still have the original 30wt oil in them...i have not had to rebuild them yet using my method.
Click to expand...
Knock on wood mine have never leaked either.
Do those limiting measurements include the stock bump stops?
 
Last edited:
ROWDY RACING said:
Curious why no rubber bump stop in the rear?
Click to expand...
in the front i like a small bit of cusion for declines and dropoffs. the rear i like hard to physically stop the travel and have no rebound effect at all.

once the shock travel is stopped the leverage point changes and now you are using the chassis as a whole to leverage against lifting or flipping....

hope that made sence.
 
krawlfreak said:
in the front i like a small bit of cusion for declines and dropoffs. the rear i like hard to physically stop the travel and have no rebound effect at all.

once the shock travel is stopped the leverage point changes and now you are using the chassis as a whole to leverage against lifting or flipping....

hope that made sence.
Click to expand...
It did, I was not questioning it, just trying to learn. I will put this setup in my rig. I have a big pre ECC comp this Saturday and I am looking for every tip I can get.
Thanks, "thumbsup"
 
jayz240 said:
If folks would just read they wont have to ask what link lengths your running every other post."thumbsup"
Click to expand...

I agree that this is an excellent thread! With regards to links I think the question will continue to come up because the chassis is so popular but there isn't any *clear* direction on links. A lot of us less experienced builders aren't anxious to drop $70 or so on straight TI links and risk bending them ourselves--especially since we're looking at photos and trying to "guesstimate" where the bends go and how much bend to put in to achieve a given eye-to-eye measurement.

After asking a lot of questions and getting a lot of different answers I finally ended up with BWD high clearance lowers and stock uppers and despite being told to use jato or revo ends I found the stock ends worked better.

Not an ideal solution but it's working good enough to allow me to see what I want to change when I do buy the Ti to bend.

It would be really cool if some of you real builders who have truly dialed your links in, would put them on a scanner and create a PDF that the rest of us could use as a pattern. :-)

Hope this doesn't sound too much like a complaint--the chassis is fantastic--I'd just like to get some links that do it justice.
 
jwr said:
I agree that this is an excellent thread! With regards to links I think the question will continue to come up because the chassis is so popular but there isn't any *clear* direction on links. A lot of us less experienced builders aren't anxious to drop $70 or so on straight TI links and risk bending them ourselves--especially since we're looking at photos and trying to "guesstimate" where the bends go and how much bend to put in to achieve a given eye-to-eye measurement.

After asking a lot of questions and getting a lot of different answers I finally ended up with BWD high clearance lowers and stock uppers and despite being told to use jato or revo ends I found the stock ends worked better.

Not an ideal solution but it's working good enough to allow me to see what I want to change when I do buy the Ti to bend.

It would be really cool if some of you real builders who have truly dialed your links in, would put them on a scanner and create a PDF that the rest of us could use as a pattern. :-)

Hope this doesn't sound too much like a complaint--the chassis is fantastic--I'd just like to get some links that do it justice.
Click to expand...
PM winkscrawler he can make you a set of Ti links like Jeremy has. "thumbsup"
 
Yeah it'd be nice to be able to throw them on a scanner, but that wouldn't work in most cases because the links are usually bent in several different directions and even on different planes so you'd need more than a 2D image. If you're looking to build your own start by building your lowers with the idea being to have the links come in as straight as possible at each mounting location. This keeps the rod ends from being in a bind from the start which allows them to move more freely in all directions. The second thing is to gain as much ground clearance as possible and contour the links to the rig. The front's won't be as extreme but will require a little more work to have them hit the mounting locations straight on. The rears will require more extreme bends, but less effort to have them end up hitting the mounting locations straight on. The uppers will just require a little bit of work to keep them from interfering with the lowers throughout their range of motion, but once again just try to have them hit their mounting locations as straight as possible.

Before you bend up the expensive Ti links make some out of 8-32 all thread and then just duplicate them...
 
ittybitty said:
Yeah it'd be nice to be able to throw them on a scanner, but that wouldn't work in most cases because the links are usually bent in several different directions and even on different planes so you'd need more than a 2D image.
Click to expand...

Ah, yeah, that would be a problem :oops:

ittybitty said:
If you're looking to build your own start by building your lowers with the idea being to have the links come in as straight as possible at each mounting location. This keeps the rod ends from being in a bind from the start which allows them to move more freely in all directions. The second thing is to gain as much ground clearance as possible and contour the links to the rig. The front's won't be as extreme but will require a little more work to have them hit the mounting locations straight on. The rears will require more extreme bends, but less effort to have them end up hitting the mounting locations straight on. The uppers will just require a little bit of work to keep them from interfering with the lowers throughout their range of motion, but once again just try to have them hit their mounting locations as straight as possible.

Before you bend up the expensive Ti links make some out of 8-32 all thread and then just duplicate them...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips on setting them up!! And yeah, I'll definitely grab some all-thread before I start butchering Ti.

Thanks again, guys!
 
x3 on the Winkslinks"thumbsup" I have 2 sets and they are the bomb. Getting ready to place another order too:twisted:


Later,
Farmer
 
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