Land Rover LR3

[AeroSynch]

Well, I finally have a runner, and something to show. I still need to figure out how to mount the body in the back, and how to remove the sticky stuff the stickers left when I removed them. A few days back, I got an LR3 and Range Rover Sport body from Jaynen. I am still deciding on which one to use, but it seems that the LR3 will be my choice. It seems to look better on the chassis and wheels rather than the Rover Sport.

Here are the specs:

• TLT axles
• MFM Chassis
• High Lift tires
• Axial transmission
• Traxxas receiver and transmitter
• Stock Tamiya silver can
• 25 tooth pinion and 78 tooth spur (speed)
• Tower Pro 995 servo
• Traxxas big bore shocks
• Msonik ESC

Pictures:

I like the stance here:

It doesn't have the roof rack, snorkel, headlight protectors or front guard:

Rear with tail light protectors:

Flex shot. I think the shocks are kinda stiff because to get it to flex like this, I had to push down and let go so it would flex. Any ideas?:

It can flex more, but I guess it would need more weight..:

My ingenious front mounting points. Since I didn't have the front bumper guard, there were two holes that disturbed me, so I stuck some mounting posts in there and attached them to the chassis, and it works out perfectly!

Closer picture of mounts on chassis:

Chassis shot. You really can't see it from here, but the transmission is holding on to a piece of metal held onto the chassis.

Rear mounting idea. Not finalized yet. (Kinda stuck on what to do, since I want no holes on the body, except for ones already there...):

Ground clearance:

Same but with Range Rover Sport body. It is high because the roof line on it is lower the the LR3, so the rear mounting posts raise it up a bit.

 

[pantablo]

Looks good Aero.
For the rear mount you could try gluing an aluminum angle to the back and attach the inverted body posts to that. That's what I did but I mounted the angles to the underside of the roof. You have windows there it appears.

can't wait to see it complete!
Good work.

 

[chino438]

liking the lr3. i plan on getting another mfm chassis. easy to work with. put some mudslingers on that rig and call it good8)

 

[AeroSynch]

Looks good Aero.
For the rear mount you could try gluing an aluminum angle to the back and attach the inverted body posts to that. That's what I did but I mounted the angles to the underside of the roof. You have windows there it appears.

can't wait to see it complete!
Good work.

That's a great idea! Let me try something first, and if it doesn't work I'll try that. Thanks. "thumbsup"

liking the lr3. i plan on getting another mfm chassis. easy to work with. put some mudslingers on that rig and call it good8)

Thank you. Yea, the MFM is awesome for its adjustability. Lol, mudslingers would look too extreme, don't you think?
:lol:

 

[marmech]

Love those newbright bodies, for the rear mounting posts, I would just throw a strip of aluminum in between them and then throw some velcro on it and the inside of the truck.

Here's a pic of mine. I had to use body posts since it is a bitch to mount these on the xc's.

 

[AeroSynch]

Very nice! I like your modified front grill. I was thinking about painting mine black.

 

[marmech]

Do it up, Wouldn't mind seeing how it looks. For these guys I like the look of them fully tucked, they really accept 1.9s into the wheelwells. I would lower the body as much as I could and then set it up for a half droop or something. Keep us updated!

 

[AeroSynch]

Cool. Don't worry, I'll update this.

How would I achieve a droop setup with the Traxxas big bores?
Just remove the springs?

 

[marmech]

I have no experience with them, but try it out and see how it works. If you have a set of springs you can cut for 50% droop and compression, try that too. Really tuck them in, so when it's full flex some of the tire can't be seen. I don't think some small internal springs would work since they are big shocks, but again no experience so a bit of research would be better than listening to me

 

[AeroSynch]

I have no experience with them, but try it out and see how it works. If you have a set of springs you can cut for 50% droop and compression, try that too. Really tuck them in, so when it's full flex some of the tire can't be seen. I don't think some small internal springs would work since they are big shocks, but again no experience so a bit of research would be better than listening to me

Lol, kk.
"thumbsup"

 

[Stormin2u]

Nice looking rig "thumbsup"

 

[AeroSynch]

Nice looking rig "thumbsup"

Thanks!

 

[tjb]

Great job man! glad to see the chassis worked out for you "thumbsup"

 

[Jaynen]

easiest method of achieving half droop is to run a spring thats soft enough the truck "sags" part way down at rest on level ground. Try softer springs first

 

[AeroSynch]

Great job man! glad to see the chassis worked out for you "thumbsup"

Thank you! It was very easy to figure out everything with all of the holes, lol.

easiest method of achieving half droop is to run a spring thats soft enough the truck "sags" part way down at rest on level ground. Try softer springs first

Ohhhh. Yea, I'll try softer springs first. What I've noticed is that when the suspension compresses, my wheelbase gets longer by about 1/4". Is it the link geometry that I am doing wrong, or what?

 

[Jaynen]

Thats going to be normal because the links are not flat they are angled and when moved upwards the end moves in an arc. If your links were completely level then any movement would shorten the wheelbase.

 

[AeroSynch]

Thats going to be normal because the links are not flat they are angled and when moved upwards the end moves in an arc. If your links were completely level then any movement would shorten the wheelbase.

Ohh. Ok, lol. Now I have to trim the arches a bit...and then drive it again. It is fun. :lol: