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Link risers

borlo

Newbie
Joined
Jan 14, 2021
Messages
32
Location
Flagstaff
General questions about upper link risers:

I saw that they decrease rear squat and make the truck climb better, is this true?

Is it only necessary to raise one end of the link? For example, I have seen add-on link risers for the rear axle side, and for the chassis side. I am thinking about the scaler fab skidplates with built-in link risers, will I get the climbing improvement if I raise the link at the chassis side only or do I need to raise the link at the axle too?

Are there other mods that must go along with raising the link to get the advantage? i.e. laying forward the rear shock

Thanks!
 
link geomitry is kinda a personal prefferance if your soft on the throtle and slow crawl everything with vary little full throtle your set up will be different than if your heavy on the throtle and prefer more of a bouncer style of driving and diferent again if your alittle of both
there is no right or wrong just how the rig feels to the person driving it
from what i understand from what ive herd from the 1:1 guys is to set the suspension at a netral or 0 anti squat then tune the suspention with the shocks

personaly i leave the front stock and add alittle squat in the rear with link risers trying to get that big zero
 
i think thats backwards but i could be wrong

to bad that link dosent have pictures anymore it would probably make more sense if it did

i think it was busted knuckes on youtube that did a break down on anti squat and how it relates to rock bouncers and crawlers it made alot of sence if you can find it watch it
yup
https://youtu.be/UzayUxQCWaY
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the replies and the links, I will get into those and do some learning.

My application is more crawling than bouncing.

Appreciate the info, all.
 
General questions about upper link risers:

I saw that they decrease rear squat and make the truck climb better, is this true?

The common term is anti-squat when referring to the rear suspension fyi. Increasing vertical link separation at only the axle will increase anti-squat.

There's a lot of other numbers at play, but I wouldn't go chasing numbers. If you have a problem behavior you could plug your setup into a 4-link calculator and see if there's something out of whack.
 
there is no right or wrong just how the rig feels to the person driving it
from what i understand from what ive herd from the 1:1 guys is to set the suspension at a netral or 0 anti squat then tune the suspention with the shocks

For full size rigs, there are absolutely right and wrong. Of course there are loads of "right" ways to make a link suspension work. There are also a lot of ways that don't work or are just unsafe.

For 1:1, I think the only place you'll see 0, or really low AS, would be high speed desert stuff, though there are surely others. My current setup in my crawler is 68% anti-squat. I think anywhere on the 50-100% range is common for crawlers.

Jake does a great job explaining the basic concepts.
 
Also, here are some risers I made for front and rear on my crawler. Just a simple aluminum plate to allow 2 higher mount positions so I could experiment with anti-squat and anti-dive numbers.

ok1ICPc.jpg


GC4FKDu.jpg
 
Also, here are some risers I made for front and rear on my crawler. Just a simple aluminum plate to allow 2 higher mount positions so I could experiment with anti-squat and anti-dive numbers.



ok1ICPc.jpg




GC4FKDu.jpg
How do you like those kyx axles? Pretty sure you can gear them lower then the ar60s right? Higher pinion output, more clearance under the pumpkin. Just curious if they could hold up to say, a puller pro on 4s? Yours looks fairly new, but I'd figure I'd ask anyhow.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
For full size rigs, there are absolutely right and wrong. Of course there are loads of "right" ways to make a link suspension work. There are also a lot of ways that don't work or are just unsafe.

For 1:1, I think the only place you'll see 0, or really low AS, would be high speed desert stuff, though there are surely others. My current setup in my crawler is 68% anti-squat. I think anywhere on the 50-100% range is common for crawlers.

Jake does a great job explaining the basic concepts.
if building from scratch it would.be posable to tottaly fubar it but i think when working with kits or premade stuff the set up becomes more preferance cause your working within set peramiters like say a rc with link risers
 
if building from scratch it would.be posable to tottaly fubar it but i think when working with kits or premade stuff the set up becomes more preferance cause your working within set peramiters like say a rc with link risers

No offense but your posts are hard to read :roll:
 
How do you like those kyx axles? Pretty sure you can gear them lower then the ar60s right? Higher pinion output, more clearance under the pumpkin. Just curious if they could hold up to say, a puller pro on 4s? Yours looks fairly new, but I'd figure I'd ask anyhow.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

They have been good for me so far. They are basically wraith width ar44s. The locker and gears are ar44, and the shafts, knuckles, etc. are ar60. Gearing is 30/8, so a bit lower than the ar60. The housing is solid as long as you tighten and thread lock everything, just like all the China axles. I'm running a Slate 2280kv on 3s crawling and no problems so far. All the internals should be compatible with axial parts if/when they break.
 
So if I understand it correctly moving the upper link mount upwards on the chassis will equal less anti-squat than stock, and moving the link up on the axle will lead to more anti-squat.

Next step, when I get the parts, will be to experiment and see which one improves climbing performance. Fun times ahead!
 
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