Just got to the part were i have to mount the battery and obviously there is two options front or back what do you all recommend it seems like everyone likes front mounted batteries can you tell me why ? also what would be the advantage of mounting battery in the back ? thanks in advance
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Mount battery up front or back
- Thread starter insutama
- Start date
Meatwad
I wanna be Dave
Usually the thought process is to keep the weight bias up front for climbing uphill. The opposite side of that is when going downhill, an endo may happen. Depending on size of your pack, it will amplify these effects.
MCW24
Quarry Creeper
want the weight up front
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
...front
Because weight towards the front
makes it better for going up obstacles ;-)
decline's could be a bit nose heavy tho'
^ battery size/weight would make the difference here
That battery platform could be lowered slightly.
By simply shaving some material off the plastic stand-offs.
Might need shorter screws as well :dunno:
* Just be sure the servo clears the underside of the battery's platform
during full compression of the suspension.
^ was assuming the servo is still mounted to the axle like was original !?
I run dual 2100 LiPo batteries mounted on the sliders.
These sit lower and that helps with the COG issues.
They do sit a little wider apart, then when mounted in line...
But it really doesn't seem to affect the roll center in a negative way.
Or at least... the lowered COG offsets the roll center concerns.
My placement allows this junk to be even more precise and capable, IMO
Better then the higher COG of the in-line battery placement(s).
There is also the option of the Jevine R's "brick plate"
mounting the battery cross width on the chassis (just forward of trans.)
Because weight towards the front
makes it better for going up obstacles ;-)
decline's could be a bit nose heavy tho'
^ battery size/weight would make the difference here
That battery platform could be lowered slightly.
By simply shaving some material off the plastic stand-offs.
Might need shorter screws as well :dunno:
* Just be sure the servo clears the underside of the battery's platform
during full compression of the suspension.
^ was assuming the servo is still mounted to the axle like was original !?
I run dual 2100 LiPo batteries mounted on the sliders.
These sit lower and that helps with the COG issues.
They do sit a little wider apart, then when mounted in line...
But it really doesn't seem to affect the roll center in a negative way.
Or at least... the lowered COG offsets the roll center concerns.
My placement allows this junk to be even more precise and capable, IMO
Better then the higher COG of the in-line battery placement(s).
There is also the option of the Jevine R's "brick plate"
mounting the battery cross width on the chassis (just forward of trans.)
6sharky9
RCC Addict
The best placement ive found is on the sliders also..but you need saddle pack batteries or 2 smaller regular packs to accomplish that...you only use one battery at a time but when one runs out just switch plugs to use the other one...like taco was saying...I use the saddle packs...its 2 1s batteries to make for a single 2s.
Like so.
Like so.
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
3s LiPo's
'cuz 2s is weak sauce !? (Lol@6sharky9)
yup each battery is a 3s ;-)
and even tho' I made some saddles to hold them...
they are not technically considered a "saddle pak"
They could be wired parallel using a "Y" harness (W/plug ends)
Handy if one doesn't like having to plug them in individually when needed.
~ I would choose to charge them individually tho' ~ (JMO)
'cuz 2s is weak sauce !? (Lol@6sharky9)
yup each battery is a 3s ;-)
and even tho' I made some saddles to hold them...
they are not technically considered a "saddle pak"
They could be wired parallel using a "Y" harness (W/plug ends)
Handy if one doesn't like having to plug them in individually when needed.
~ I would choose to charge them individually tho' ~ (JMO)
6sharky9
RCC Addict
3s LiPo's
'cuz 2s is weak sauce !? (Lol@6sharky9)
yup each battery is a 3s ;-)
and even tho' I made some saddles to hold them...
they are not technically considered a "saddle pak"
They could be wired parallel using a "Y" harness (W/plug ends)
Handy if one doesn't like having to plug them in individually when needed.
~ I would choose to charge them individually tho' ~ (JMO)
I mentioned single packs and saddle packs...hence the "you can change plugs and run the other pack"...you been eating too many tacos:lmao:
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
no bueno es tacos
I just feel the need to post pictures of my junk,
whenever you post pictars of yers.
LolIf you drove muh junk just once...
you'd be out buying 3s LiPo's the next day !? Lol
6sharky9
RCC Addict
I don't want to drive a truck with paint can caps as wheel wells..sorry:lmao: JK
JK
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TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
^ CoolWhip container brotha'I don't want to drive a truck with paint can caps as wheel wells..sorry:lmao:
'cause they're COOL "thumbsup"
yer not really sorry, ru !?
Trump1
Rock Crawler
Two (2) 3s lipos and my custom Deans plug.
Trump1
Rock Crawler
Saturday I spent the day making my own custom front battery mount. I'll post photos soon as I can. Hopefully in the morning.
Trump1
Rock Crawler
Here's my battery holder. Simple to make.
If you want to see more pictures and a step-by-step build, click here.
If you want to see more pictures and a step-by-step build, click here.
jp0478
Newbie
I used the front mount location for the power plant battery and mounted a 1/16 nimh battery in the back for my winch and lights in the back. The weight is pretty close to equal with the bias leaning a little to the front. Definitely not saying it is the way to go, just my 2 cents.
Nelanzor
Rock Stacker
not so long ago I did some runs with my dingo, electronics up front and lipo (5200mah 2s) in the back, together with an honcho with everything up front including a nimh pack.
The honcho was better at climbing while my dingo was better at descending.
When climbing the honcho had more grip to get up, we were both running ripsaws btw.
I could descend on points where the honcho would just flip over forward.
Next up for me is to place the lipo behind the front wheels on an jevne rc electronics plate to see how it holds up then in climbing and descending.
And maybe add some weight in the rear wheels to prevent flipping when descending
The honcho was better at climbing while my dingo was better at descending.
When climbing the honcho had more grip to get up, we were both running ripsaws btw.
I could descend on points where the honcho would just flip over forward.
Next up for me is to place the lipo behind the front wheels on an jevne rc electronics plate to see how it holds up then in climbing and descending.
And maybe add some weight in the rear wheels to prevent flipping when descending
Here's my battery holder. Simple to make.
If you want to see more pictures and a step-by-step build, click here.
I simply ziptied the battery plate to the frame in that location. Not necessary to make anything. I'm running a heavy 4000mah 3S there. From my point of view this must be the best compromise for overall performance. It sits a lot lower than between shock towers and a lot more forward than on the sliders or in the rear. Side hilling would hurt from placing it up between towers and regular climbs would hurt from them on the sliders.
johnfm3
Pebble Pounder
incase that link fails, heres the onedrive folder share...
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...5&authkey=!ABJX2KGba_j2fkc&ithint=folder,.jpg
So for now I am running dual 6 cell NiCad's in front an back. For many of the same reasons that have been stated above. Balance. The stock one on my rig was in the back. Just adding the second battery up front alone helped my ability to keep traction when going up steep inclines.
John
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