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New Axial scx 24 deadbolt

I've had a bit of a look and can't see what I'm looking for.

Has anyone compared scx24 to cpl hilux body? I want to know if it's a close enough fit as a scale body for the axles.
 
I don't have a CPL, but I do know they need wideners or the RC4WD steel wheels flipped for more offset to be wide enough. The SCX24 axles need wideners to be as wide as the RC4WD axles,.
Right now HobbyPlus CR-18 axles are as wide as RC4WD, and the Panda Hobby Tetra X1 are slightly wider @120mm. The widest of the micro axles so far

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As you can see, I’ve been a member since 2008 since I bought the AX10 kit! (that’s still a newbie on posting and thread starting!)
Unfortunately my mom just passed away on April 25, 2019…:cry:
since then I dove headfirst into the shallow end back into the hobby…
Any help on starting a new thread with the information already posted would be beneficial .

Shoot I'm sorry to hear that.

If you wanted to start a thread what I would probably do is just go to the USER CP (in the tab up top) and look at your subscribed threads (I think the default is set to sub to all threads you post in) and just start copy/pasting your other posts into your build thread. That should make it a lot less work.
 
I don't have a CPL, but I do know they need wideners or the RC4WD steel wheels flipped for more offset to be wide enough. The SCX24 axles need wideners to be as wide as the RC4WD axles,.
Right now HobbyPlus CR-18 axles are as wide as RC4WD, and the Panda Hobby Tetra X1 are slightly wider @120mm. The widest of the micro axles so far

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

What about the danally mod on the rims? If i took the inner lip and made it the outer lip, would it be enough to resemble a stock type truck?
 
What about the danally mod on the rims? If i took the inner lip and made it the outer lip, would it be enough to resemble a stock type truck?
That depends on the wheel you're using I guess, but the point is you'd have to widen most of the axles in some what be it with hex wideners or wheels with more offset. Extending after the knuckle gives wonky scrub radius when turning so starting with the widest axle is usually a good bet.
The CR-18 has a track width of 98-99mm
The SCX24 IS 99.5mm
The RC4WD is 93mm
The Panda Hobby Tetra X1 is 120mm, though keep in mind the different wheels have different offset. The SCX24 has a very narrow offset wheel and thin wheel hexes so swapping to standard offset wheels and thicker hexes like from a Barrage/RGT or CR-24/CR-18 widens it some

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Shoot I'm sorry to hear that.

If you wanted to start a thread what I would probably do is just go to the USER CP (in the tab up top) and look at your subscribed threads (I think the default is set to sub to all threads you post in) and just start copy/pasting your other posts into your build thread. That should make it a lot less work.

Thanks bud…! Appreciate the information. Keep your eye out!

Are you going to be at “crawl for a cure?” (Pioneer, CA)
Events

I have family in Fort Bragg, might hit you up next time I go up there.:)
 
Extending after the knuckle gives wonky scrub radius when turning so starting with the widest axle is usually a good bet.

Sounds like the long way around to saying the cpl body being too big for the scx chassis. Lol

I get what ur saying, I had one for a short while. But moved it on.

I've got an old xj (Nissan patrol also) body that should be nice n close along with a cheap wj body as well. So I've got a few options once I'm home to tinker.
 
It's definitely to big for the chassis itself, I was speaking specifically about the axles for more of a DIY project.

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It's definitely to big for the chassis itself, I was speaking specifically about the axles for more of a DIY project.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Yeh, we're on the same page. Maybe someone has both and could put pictures up for reference sometime.
 
Thanks bud…! Appreciate the information. Keep your eye out!

Are you going to be at “crawl for a cure?” (Pioneer, CA)
Events

I have family in Fort Bragg, might hit you up next time I go up there.:)


No problem.


I had not planned to go to Crawl for a cure, I didnt realize it was happening actually. Its tempting but I dont think I'll be able to swing it.


Yeah you're welcome to get in touch if you're in the area, Fort Bragg is maybe 3 hours from where I'm at so its a decent drive.
 
Don’t know if this helps. But here are the brass spacers with the RC4WD stamped wheels drilled out with a 1/8 bit. Fits like O.J.’s glove! Don’t have the tires in yet so haven’t mounted anything.



 
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Any opinions on which bead-lock bolts looks better. I kinda like the zinc hexes as opposed to the stainless buttons but not sure.




Also found some things while digging thru my Lego parts bin. Not sure if I'll use any of it but the steering wheel and side-view mirrors actually look pretty legit imo. I was also thinking of using the red lenses for the taillights... push them out from the inside then e6000 in place and voila... ready for led's.




And while I'm babbling about Legos lol, I might as well post a pic of my new driver...



Found these scale bolts also. There’s others on their website too. Check it out!

https://model-motorcars.myshopify.c...-hex-head-stainless-steel-1-6-mm-x-6mm-bt166s



odd baby

Also, I went your route like I mentioned earlier and I’m putting these babies on with the stamped wheels.


 
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Tires finally came in. I have them mounted and it took me about an hour to do one tire! Properly! And even then I f#*%*^ up the back…Nothing that can’t be fixed though. I think they look killer with the scale bolts (M1.6x6)! And is it just me or are these tires directional…? If so, shouldn’t they have a Driver and passenger side?




 
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That's how the real tires are. They are supposedly asymmetrical, however according to Goodyear you can mount them in either direction and they are fine

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That's how the real tires are. They are supposedly asymmetrical, however according to Goodyear you can mount them in either direction and they are fine

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Well… If RC4WD did it like Goodyear… Then I’m disappointed in Goodyear!:lmao:
(Or RC4WD if they just didn’t make one side of the lugs the same width as the others…)

I used to have these tires on my 06 mustang GT, but they’re way too expensive now! And I’ve always thought they would be a great off-road tire with the right Specs and lugs removed. Going to have to use your childhood imagination on this one… But I like the twists and turns in them.

 
Just like the tires from the SCX 10 that I put on another crawler. I trim them up but I could not trim them how they should be…

Assuming the direction of the red lines on the passenger side is how you want it, you would want to trim the driver side to the yellow direction. But I could only do it In the red direction on the driver side (no matter which way the tire is mounted. Have I had too many Lagunitas IPAs?

Is this what we’re dealing with on the goodyears? If there’s no opposite forces, seems like it would have a tendency to slide in one direction.
(Not the boy band!:lmao:)

 
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http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tech-qa/1312-goodyear-mtr-with-kevlar-4xforum

4bf3503db9da9a58a46d50b2d1a670f9.jpg


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The big lugs are on the inside on the passenger and the outside on the driver.
Again, I don’t know again if I’ve just had too many Lagunitas… But that still doesn’t make sense! Picture your tires turning a screw… Now picture One tire turning a screw and the other one turning a reverse thread screw. In my opinion the latter would give more traction. Even if you mount the larger lugs on the inside it still is wonky looking and on slippery terrain, sending you in one direction (to the side) and not straight.

Same image but I have mirrored it so the front tire on the passenger side is how it should be…! See how the inside lugs are both pointing about 15° towards the bumper?


 
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