New SCX-10: Impressions and Questions

[JustinThyme]

I did some horse trading and picked up an SCX-10 Honcho, used but never run. In looking over the design, I see that Axial has learned some lessons from it's AX line. All the electronics/weight are forward, and mounted as low as they reasonably can. I like the ladder frame, yet keeping the AX axles, links and driveshafts for parts compatibility.

The first thing I did was replace the lower links with the aluminum ones that came on my AX-10 ARTR (I did a chassis upgrade on it, and it didn't use any of the stock linkage). I'm going to black shrink wrap them so they don't stick out as orange and does better at keeping a more scale appearance.

Putting a regular size 7.4v LiPo on the battery mount required bulging the body in order to clip it down, so I raised the mounts a little to minimize this. What physical size batts are people running? Are most people using smaller receiver type packs, or full size?

I'm going to go with the aluminum knuckles, C-hubs and rear hubs. Also replace shocks with Proline Powerstroke dual rates. The set for the Slash fronts are the same size. I'll also replace the driveshafts with Junfac's. I'll replace the stock sealed can 27T for an open end 27T. I have a spare Mamba Max Pro laying around, and am contemplating swapping that in.

Any recommendations for aluminum beadlock wheels and tires? I did add weight to the stock fronts, but would like aluminum wheels.

Body wise, I'm thinking either Proline Wrangler Rubicon or the H2 SUT. Anyone know who makes the Hummer body and will it work on this chassis?

Are there any other weak points on the vehicle I need to address? Any other typical mods? The servo looks a little smaller than typical servos. Any recommendations for an affordable servo?

I'm very impressed with some of the true scale looking builds I've seen around here, fantastic work. I will probably do minimal scale accessories, but might add a 5 light roof bar. No intentions on a dig or anything like that. This is mostly a basher, maybe comp (need to find out more about rules for the scale class).

Sorry to ramble. I'll post pix once I have something different enough from stock to make it worthwhile, and any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[2500hdon37s]

hi-tec 645 steering servo ive got the one on my honcho and its been running strong for over a year!

id also suggest rok loks or the new RC4WD SS Boggers for tires and weight the wheels

 

[eric113]

5645 hitech servo.
http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/hrc35645s.htm

steel outputs
http://www.rpphobby.com/category_s/65.htm

or

BOWTIE
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2726865#post27268

 

[JustinThyme]

Thanks for the tips. The Hitec 645MG is a great bargain servo that I use in a couple cars. You don't have problems with fit? Maybe it was just the way the frame looks, but I wasn't sure a 645 would fit. If so, that's great!

I'm also wondering if it's worth the effort to convert to 4 link. It's obviously more flexible that way, but this isn't supposed to be a full blown crawler....but more of a "trail" truck.

I've already got the AX-10 lower links installed and shrink wrapped, and put on the aluminum C-hubs and knuckles (those are orange). I also have Proline Titus beadlocks which were a hand-me-down, so I'm using those for now. Full weight and cut foams up front, no weight and full foams in back. Picked up a Monster 27T motor.

Does anyone run a Mamba Max or Max Pro in one of these? I wonder how it works (drag brake?) in a crawl environment. I'll have to check all my other vehicles, see if it can be put to better use elsewhere.

I also was turned onto a decent, cheap battery pack for it. I created a lexan "tray" that's servo taped to the top of the receiver box running perpendicular to the forward axis, and then used velcro to hold on the small LiPo.

I plugged the default 4 LED lights into my receivers AUX channel, and was a bit disappointed that I can't turn them on and off with the 2-way AUX switch. I guess I'll need a more robust light kit for that.

Keep the tips coming!8)

I'll try to get some action shots tomorrow to match my under the hood shots, and post them.

 

[2500hdon37s]

Keep the tips coming!8)

take the bump stops out of the shocks
4-link the rear-end
drive it! (learn how it reacts)
read other threads and get good ideas"thumbsup"

 

[Rook82]

Steel outputs for the transmission are a great idea. The stock ones are aluminum that is weak in its design. Axial ones are less then $15.

Another good idea is to get a multi pack of Traxxas long shafts. They hold up much better then the Axial ones and you get a complete 6 pack(each end 12 pieces) for less then $10.

I run standard 7.2 lipos (4000 mah) and a 7.2 45c 2200 in my 2 scx's. No problem with fit on the stock tray mounted in the front configuration.

One thing you can do to the Orange aluminum is use oven cleaner to strip the Orange anodizing. Put the parts in some form of tray and spay with the cleaner and in about 15 minutes, they will rinse to a standard aluminum color.

 

[zjguy721]

I'll agree with the above. 4-link the rear, that alone will help with the articulation, and with the Honcho rear end, you won't run into any interference. If you are going with a "full" body for the back (like a Wrangler), you'll just rub anyway so you'll either have to trim the body or move it up. Kind of depends on what is more important to you, performance or scale appearance. If you are thinking of comping, keep the tubed rear end.

As far as the lights, I used a box from Radio Shack and a 9v battery, mounted a little switch in the box. That way, I can turn on the lights whenever I need them, and they don't run off the battery pack for the truck.

 

[Dogbreath]

Best thing to do is run it, run it, run it....look at how it reacts and change what needs to be changed, there's no real need to throw money at a truck that performs very well right out of the box. But you will find things that do need to be done 4 Link the rear, change out the motor for a decent 35T or 45T and the Mamba Max works great....the drag brake is a must in heavy crawling situations.

check these trucks out, most all are Honchos or Honcho based and are very capable on the rocks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7FxfdrpF1Ic

 

[JustinThyme]

I did pick up a Mamba Max for it today.

Don't think I'm going to comp this, just use it as a basher/fun vehicle. 4 linking the rear sounds like a good idea, I'll search out that thread.

I want some of the scaler look to it, but I doubt I'll go to the extent of adding a roof rack with mini stuff in it, or anything like that. Right now, the only exterior body thing I have in mind is a 4 or 5 bucket light set. The idea of adding a switch for it sounds like the way to go....simple and effective.

I also liked the Slash hex set to get a tad more width.

 

[bayareaaxial]

go with come mayhem or cac beadlocks they are great aluminum wheels never had a problem with either and I also have a set for sale in 1.9s that are new pm me if you want some more info.

 

[scarecrow]

good post for me anyways.....i am going to be buying one real soon. so this will help me out a bit...keep the tips comming.

 

[JustinThyme]

Spent more time running the Honcho. It definitely has shortcomings as a crawler in stock form. Once I finish with my upgrades, I'm sure it will improve some, but I didn't get it for rocks in the first place (that's what my AX-10 Fastback is for). It is fun to play with.