powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
Will you also be releasing metal rear tubes with integrated link mounts?
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New SSD Trail King Aluminum Offset Tubes
- Thread starter SSD
- Start date
Bananaclip
I wanna be Dave
I installed these on my TK. Very nice upgrade option. The machining is super clean.
Also for guys running the VP VFD Trans these tubes will do the trick. It just involves some slight trimming of the skid.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also for guys running the VP VFD Trans these tubes will do the trick. It just involves some slight trimming of the skid.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That looks great! "thumbsup"
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
Just finished building some axles and found that the passenger front C hub is very loose. The front axle has the metal offset tubes with integrated link mounts. Every part including the internal gears which are overdriven are SSD with the exception of the bearings. Therefore, I was not expecting any slop.
The driver side C hub is tight, but the passenger side is very loose with play both in the direction of rotation as well as inward/outward. I noticed when installing the set screws (circled) that both were loose with no real friction when tightening. Not sure if the issue is with the C hub or with the axle tube. Anyone else seen this?
I'm not sure whether to ask for a new tube or new C hub or if this is something I am supposed to accept as is. The issue is only on the passenger (long tube) side.
Youtube vid of the play:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8b6-kLuaveo
Just finished building some axles and found that the passenger front C hub is very loose. The front axle has the metal offset tubes with integrated link mounts. Every part including the internal gears which are overdriven are SSD with the exception of the bearings. Therefore, I was not expecting any slop.
The driver side C hub is tight, but the passenger side is very loose with play both in the direction of rotation as well as inward/outward. I noticed when installing the set screws (circled) that both were loose with no real friction when tightening. Not sure if the issue is with the C hub or with the axle tube. Anyone else seen this?
I'm not sure whether to ask for a new tube or new C hub or if this is something I am supposed to accept as is. The issue is only on the passenger (long tube) side.
Youtube vid of the play:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8b6-kLuaveo
I just use 3mm screws instead of the set screw, it will be tight! "thumbsup"
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
I hear what you are saying. I have replaced set screws with cap heads on other parts before. This is specifically a necessity on the first gen VP Currie sway bar. In this case, the threads are tapped out too big or the hole in the tube is too big. In either case having a cap won't actually tighten it as either hole will still be too big in diameter for any 3mm screw.
The only way for me to check is to disassemble the axle and try the the C hubs on opposite tubes to see what is tight and what is lose. If the lose spot switches sides, it should be the C hub. If the loose end stays, it should be the tube I guess. I just haven't had time to dig back in yet.
And to be straight up... I have used a ton of SSD products on multiple vehicles and this is perhaps the first warranty issue I have seen. I have a solid connection to VP products and yet I still choose to spend most of my money on SSD. Specifically with the SCX10 II vehicle and similar (Trail King), SSD has nailed it with their product line up. And they were bringing the parts people wanted to market fast!
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
So I originally went to SSD's website six days ago on the 20th to bring up the issue through their "contact us" spot. I have yet to recieve any response.
I switched C hubs from one side to the other (making them backwards, but checking to see if the slop followed. The slop did not follow So it looks like the issue is the long passenger side axle tube. The hole for the set screw must have been bored out too big. I need new axle tubes... or I guess just the long side.
So I know the issue and would love to warranty it. If no one has responded due to COVID-19 related issues, totally understood. If not, maybe SSD here could PM me with different contact details?
Edit: I am a little confused. Pretty sure the issue is the tube for reasons stated; however, when I put it back together correctly I can see a tiny bit of movement between the C hub hole and the set screw. The set screw threads in super lose on that side. Is the set screw supposed to bite into the C hub or the axle tube? If it should bite into the C hub, there is a problem there as well.
I switched C hubs from one side to the other (making them backwards, but checking to see if the slop followed. The slop did not follow So it looks like the issue is the long passenger side axle tube. The hole for the set screw must have been bored out too big. I need new axle tubes... or I guess just the long side.
So I know the issue and would love to warranty it. If no one has responded due to COVID-19 related issues, totally understood. If not, maybe SSD here could PM me with different contact details?
Edit: I am a little confused. Pretty sure the issue is the tube for reasons stated; however, when I put it back together correctly I can see a tiny bit of movement between the C hub hole and the set screw. The set screw threads in super lose on that side. Is the set screw supposed to bite into the C hub or the axle tube? If it should bite into the C hub, there is a problem there as well.
Last edited:
powder4breakfast
Quarry Creeper
I believe you, but no email has come through. I just rechecked including my junk box. It is possible that the email was recorded wrong. I will go to your website and try again.
Thank you for checking on it.
Edit:
All sorted out. The SSD customer service is as cool as their products.
Last edited:
I tried it last night for needed to know reasons.
Here is what I figured out.
As you noted, swapping tube sides does a few things.
1 it would make the ribs upside down, because the Cs only go on one way. If SSD would make the hubs able to fit either side tube, and be setting in the proper orientation, then the C hubs would fit the correct sides, and would b eno issue with the knuckles. The other issue is pan hard mounts. Both Axle and Chassis. The drivers side shock hoop has the chassis pan hard mount on it. This would have to be moveable to the passenger side shock hoop mount (ie SSD would have to make the pan hard mount and shock towers adaptable for so the pan hard mound could be mounted correctly on either side.)
Lastly, because the c hubs can no the swapped side to side, and turned 180*, the pan hard mount on the C hub faces down when put on the passenger side.
But these are all Fixable issues to swap the tubes.
The only big kind/question is the link/shock mount positions. they are also upside down when flipped on each side.
Here SSD would need to allow the mounts to be added to the front axle as they do on the rear metal axle tubes. That way when the tubes are flipped, the mounts can be properly orentated and attached to the front offset tubes.
as it is, my though it to just grind off the axle mount that are machined on the offset tubes, and then figure out the best way to mount rear mounts to the front tubes. may be a little tricky. The other option would be to put the machined amounts on the top of the axle, but that leads to the 2nd issue again with the C hubs. Basically you would have to grind/file down the nubs on the end of the tubes, so the c hubs could spin 180* around the tubes and be able tobe mounted/secured in the orientation you need.
It would require a lot of modding...
Or SSD could do a bit of redesign, allowing for the tubes, pan hard mounts, C hubs, and Shock/link mounts to be swapped on each tube as well.
4 C hub lines would allow the hubs to be swapped on each tube and be properly orentated. Making the Front Link shock mount attachable like the rear would solve that hiccup. That leaves only the Pan hard mount on the shock tower needing to be modified so it can be mounted on the drivers or passengers side of the chassis.
Doing an SSD kit with the RC4WD Blazer for a class 1 rig. so I need to move the pumpkin to the passenger side, so a modding I will go until SSD perhaps makes these changes. Until then, wheres my dremel and grinding stones?
Going to use a set of these plastic stock tubes to start mocking up what I may need to do to make this kit work.
I see what is being said about the bad geometry of the transfer to the front axle, but I think that can be remedied also.
Considering in my case I will not be using the links for the one build, but instead converting to full leaf spring. That will be a longer build.
I have the other kit in almost roller form.
I purchased the rear metal axle tubes for the Axial SCX10 II and the Trail King rear axles, I did not realize at the time as I didn't have anything in hand, just internet pictures and descriptions that they did not come with the rear shock/link mounts.
Might I ask why the rear metal axle kits don't just include the metal shock/link mounts in the package, for the low cost of the mounts, I certainly would pay a few more dollars for the tubes if the mounts were included with the required screws to mount them.
Having to find out they were not including, then having to make a follow up order for a few dollars worth of shock mounts and pay more in shipping to get them was kind of a grinder.
Any thoughts?
At any rate, the rest of this kit is going together really well to be honest. Everything pretty much fit very well. I was hoping to get the wheel base to shrink in a bit more. When I did the back shock towers/cross mount, I moved them forward to the next hole, but I need to get them to move forward about 1 inch, so It looks like I need to find shorter links for the rear end, and even the front links will need to move in about 1/4 inch. Basically I need to get to an 11.3 inch w/b. So may need to do some figuring and contemplating to see how I want to deal with it. No problem with the kit whatsoever, just my intended use requires a bit of a shorter w/b (RC4WD Blazer body).
However, this is going to be a class 2 rig, so a bit longer w/b wouldn't be a big issue as I do plan on aging the body as if it were a decade old or more, and was converted to a full time Trail/Crawler Rig.
But the build was very easy. Everything went together well for the most part. I did have one or 2 screws that didn't take much to spin out in the plastic holes. Hole was probably just a smidge too large,not allowing for a great bite by the screw thread. no worries. Some superglue and voila, new tight screw and threads after a few hours of drying up.
I have to mention the axle. Nice quality on the gears. maybe even just a smidge raw, but that will wear in really quickly. No shimming needed anywhere in teh indisde of either case, including the diff pinions. This is basically unheard of. lol Until now anyways. When both axles were built, play from one wheel to the other and the diff pinion was almost nil. It spins very smooth other than the occasional spot where the new gears need to wear together a little both, which is no different than any 1:1.
Once I had the axles on the chassis (minus shocks as I don't have any shock oil on hand, and didn't know these didn't come already filled) and had everything together (used 2 small zipstrips to hold the lower links to the rear axles for the moment) the entire drive train in place and locked down, the play was maybe, maybe 1/4inch. Once I have the rear shock/link mounts installed I suspect it will go down a bit more.
I doubt that slop in the entire drive train is even 1/4 inch of wheel roll before the tranny is rolling.
Speaking of the tranny, I don't think there was any play from front shaft to rear shaft. move one end, the other end moved with it.
Nice Kit.
drawbacks. some of those plastic holes could use to be just a smidge smaller for Better thread bite. The issue for me seemed to be after I had to take a bolt out, then reinstall it. That is when both the holes lost a good bite on the bolt threads. Just an FYI. Again, lil superglue helps that with plastic.
Screw holes in the metal were smooth and clean as were the bolt threads themselves. Only drawback here is they probably need a bit more locktite than most use.
Keeping it out/off the plastic bits is a lil trick but not too hard to keep cleaned up.
Kit is a Great Piece. Nice parts, well designed, manufacturing is very good. Better than most any kits I've done.
Of course that is considering I have been out of rc for about 10 yrs and just got back in a month ago, and have 2 of these SSD Kits and I am pleased with the build and included pieces.
Only wish I had better impulse control getting back in. lol I also have a RC G8 Axe and a new Xray F1. lol
I see what is being said about the bad geometry of the transfer to the front axle, but I think that can be remedied also.
Considering in my case I will not be using the links for the one build, but instead converting to full leaf spring. That will be a longer build.
I have the other kit in almost roller form.
I purchased the rear metal axle tubes for the Axial SCX10 II and the Trail King rear axles, I did not realize at the time as I didn't have anything in hand, just internet pictures and descriptions that they did not come with the rear shock/link mounts.
Might I ask why the rear metal axle kits don't just include the metal shock/link mounts in the package, for the low cost of the mounts, I certainly would pay a few more dollars for the tubes if the mounts were included with the required screws to mount them.
Having to find out they were not including, then having to make a follow up order for a few dollars worth of shock mounts and pay more in shipping to get them was kind of a grinder.
Any thoughts?
At any rate, the rest of this kit is going together really well to be honest. Everything pretty much fit very well. I was hoping to get the wheel base to shrink in a bit more. When I did the back shock towers/cross mount, I moved them forward to the next hole, but I need to get them to move forward about 1 inch, so It looks like I need to find shorter links for the rear end, and even the front links will need to move in about 1/4 inch. Basically I need to get to an 11.3 inch w/b. So may need to do some figuring and contemplating to see how I want to deal with it. No problem with the kit whatsoever, just my intended use requires a bit of a shorter w/b (RC4WD Blazer body).
However, this is going to be a class 2 rig, so a bit longer w/b wouldn't be a big issue as I do plan on aging the body as if it were a decade old or more, and was converted to a full time Trail/Crawler Rig.
But the build was very easy. Everything went together well for the most part. I did have one or 2 screws that didn't take much to spin out in the plastic holes. Hole was probably just a smidge too large,not allowing for a great bite by the screw thread. no worries. Some superglue and voila, new tight screw and threads after a few hours of drying up.
I have to mention the axle. Nice quality on the gears. maybe even just a smidge raw, but that will wear in really quickly. No shimming needed anywhere in teh indisde of either case, including the diff pinions. This is basically unheard of. lol Until now anyways. When both axles were built, play from one wheel to the other and the diff pinion was almost nil. It spins very smooth other than the occasional spot where the new gears need to wear together a little both, which is no different than any 1:1.
Once I had the axles on the chassis (minus shocks as I don't have any shock oil on hand, and didn't know these didn't come already filled) and had everything together (used 2 small zipstrips to hold the lower links to the rear axles for the moment) the entire drive train in place and locked down, the play was maybe, maybe 1/4inch. Once I have the rear shock/link mounts installed I suspect it will go down a bit more.
I doubt that slop in the entire drive train is even 1/4 inch of wheel roll before the tranny is rolling.
Speaking of the tranny, I don't think there was any play from front shaft to rear shaft. move one end, the other end moved with it.
Nice Kit.
drawbacks. some of those plastic holes could use to be just a smidge smaller for Better thread bite. The issue for me seemed to be after I had to take a bolt out, then reinstall it. That is when both the holes lost a good bite on the bolt threads. Just an FYI. Again, lil superglue helps that with plastic.
Screw holes in the metal were smooth and clean as were the bolt threads themselves. Only drawback here is they probably need a bit more locktite than most use.
Keeping it out/off the plastic bits is a lil trick but not too hard to keep cleaned up.
Kit is a Great Piece. Nice parts, well designed, manufacturing is very good. Better than most any kits I've done.
Of course that is considering I have been out of rc for about 10 yrs and just got back in a month ago, and have 2 of these SSD Kits and I am pleased with the build and included pieces.
Only wish I had better impulse control getting back in. lol I also have a RC G8 Axe and a new Xray F1. lol
theBOY
Newbie
What would be needed to run these in the rear using a diamond center section?(aside from internals. I understand I'll have to make some shafts to work.) I've looked online and SSD offers two different sets of lockouts for the rear axle. One set for SCX10/D60 and a different set for SX10ii. Will either of these work?
Topher Builds
I wanna be Dave
@Timmah, a little late here sorry. the rear axle tubes were designed as a 10.2 replacement which had the bolt on link mounts. This allows for upgrades to brass or aluminum as well as the ability to flip them.
Here are the aluminum tubes with the link mounts (aka trail king version$)
PARTS FOR TRAIL KINGTrail King Pro44 Rear Axle Tubes
Being able to flip the amounts then allows you to flip the side the offset pumpkin is on, for that you need these front tubes...
Pro44 Aluminum Offset Front Tubes for SCX10 II
@theBOY
If you get the second set of tubes above the normal scx10ii lockouts should fit the splines I believe. For the trail king tubes they don’t use splines and are a more unique type of connection.
Here are the aluminum tubes with the link mounts (aka trail king version$)
PARTS FOR TRAIL KINGTrail King Pro44 Rear Axle Tubes
Being able to flip the amounts then allows you to flip the side the offset pumpkin is on, for that you need these front tubes...
Pro44 Aluminum Offset Front Tubes for SCX10 II
@theBOY
If you get the second set of tubes above the normal scx10ii lockouts should fit the splines I believe. For the trail king tubes they don’t use splines and are a more unique type of connection.
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